How can i get XEon lights
How can i get XEon lights
Wanted to know how would i get a new xeon lights. Tired from the old yellow ****. DO i just buy the bulb and put it on or DO i have to replace the whole unit. Input would be great
Originally Posted by es2k2
light bulb will work... like nokya
hid doesn't work well with the oem housing.. glare everywhere
hid doesn't work well with the oem housing.. glare everywhere
You saying lightbulbs "XEON LIGHT bulbs." ANy wesites that sell them? and how to put them in.
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Originally Posted by es2k2
light bulb will work... like nokya
hid doesn't work well with the oem housing.. glare everywhere
hid doesn't work well with the oem housing.. glare everywhere
Originally Posted by wonderz
haha, i am sure gearbox will come in sooner or later saying, if u get Catz HID, u won't get glare. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H4-Bl...96174304QQrdZ1
yes u can get any "xeon" junky pos bulbs anywhere. not sure if this applies with halogens but u dont want to go over 5000k b.c with those 8k u wont see jack crap. i found out the hard way. then again if u are lookin just for looks go for it
Originally Posted by crazyasian
yes u can get any "xeon" junky pos bulbs anywhere. not sure if this applies with halogens but u dont want to go over 5000k b.c with those 8k u wont see jack crap. i found out the hard way. then again if u are lookin just for looks go for it
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Originally Posted by soltex
opps a typo
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you need H4 bulbs. silverstars are nice and cheap. MTEC are great too from what I hear. Our headlights are H4 bulbs.
Don't bother with an HID kit unless you really want that much light and glare, not to mention the $400-$600+ price tag over $40 dollars for a set of H4 bulbs
hope i helped
Don't bother with an HID kit unless you really want that much light and glare, not to mention the $400-$600+ price tag over $40 dollars for a set of H4 bulbs
hope i helped
Originally Posted by diskreet
you need H4 bulbs. silverstars are nice and cheap. MTEC are great too from what I hear. Our headlights are H4 bulbs.
Don't bother with an HID kit unless you really want that much light and glare, not to mention the $400-$600+ price tag over $40 dollars for a set of H4 bulbs
hope i helped
Don't bother with an HID kit unless you really want that much light and glare, not to mention the $400-$600+ price tag over $40 dollars for a set of H4 bulbs
hope i helped
I have seen bulbs that were like 15 bucks. 2 pack
I've been through all phases of lighting upgrades...
If you spend $15 for blue coated halogen bulbs, you're going to get what you paid for. End of story. I have NEVER so far seen a pair of 'blue bulbs' as I like to call them, that honestly would outperform the stock Sylvanias. Using blue bulbs is 'RICE' it may look cool to some people who don't know anything about headlights, but it serves no purpose other than looks.. it will perform worse than stock bulbs.
If you want to go up ONE step in performance to real HID, and have a 2003 or older, you will need to find bulbs that have been adapted to work in a H4 socket. This means that the light source focal point will match the position of a H4 bulb, and there will be a physical shield under the bulb to block light from entering the high beam (lower portion) of the stock reflector. In this case you will lose high beams, but gain low beam lighting. If you buy GOOD bulbs and GOOD adapters, you will have pretty good lighting and not much glare. I recommend 4100K Philips brand D2S bulbs - the kind like you'd find in stock HID/projector equipped car AND a set of Casperselectronics H4 adapters/shields. If you have the caspers shields annodized black, you'll reduce glare further and make the lights look a bit more blueish to oncoming traffic. This is not a bad setup if you do 99% city driving and don't need high beams. ----------- DO NOT use D2S or D2R bulbs jambo'ed into your H4 socket. It will not work right, you must use a good shield/adapter and the best one I know of is from Caspers Electronics.
Two steps up from stock would be to get a pair of HID projectors out of a factory HID equipped vehicle. Take the Audi A4 for example. Have the projectors custom implanted into your assemblies, and now you've got real HID performance and many times you can even get high beams, by implanting bi-xenon projectors. This is by far, the best upgrade you can make to your lighting. Again, I advise Philips brand 4100k bulbs.
You can get used parts off of ebay for resonable prices.. For an implant into stock headlights, figure 200 for bulbs and ballasts.. 30 for wires, fuses, relays... and around 60 for caspers adapters.
Projector implants.. 100-300 for a pair of projectors, from cheapest to highest demand.. 200 for bulbs/ballasts, 30 for wires, fuses, relays.. probably 200-500 for custom work/installation by a headlight builder.
Check out HIDplanet.com if you ever get serious and grow out of the 'blue bulb' phase and into real lighting.
If you spend $15 for blue coated halogen bulbs, you're going to get what you paid for. End of story. I have NEVER so far seen a pair of 'blue bulbs' as I like to call them, that honestly would outperform the stock Sylvanias. Using blue bulbs is 'RICE' it may look cool to some people who don't know anything about headlights, but it serves no purpose other than looks.. it will perform worse than stock bulbs.
If you want to go up ONE step in performance to real HID, and have a 2003 or older, you will need to find bulbs that have been adapted to work in a H4 socket. This means that the light source focal point will match the position of a H4 bulb, and there will be a physical shield under the bulb to block light from entering the high beam (lower portion) of the stock reflector. In this case you will lose high beams, but gain low beam lighting. If you buy GOOD bulbs and GOOD adapters, you will have pretty good lighting and not much glare. I recommend 4100K Philips brand D2S bulbs - the kind like you'd find in stock HID/projector equipped car AND a set of Casperselectronics H4 adapters/shields. If you have the caspers shields annodized black, you'll reduce glare further and make the lights look a bit more blueish to oncoming traffic. This is not a bad setup if you do 99% city driving and don't need high beams. ----------- DO NOT use D2S or D2R bulbs jambo'ed into your H4 socket. It will not work right, you must use a good shield/adapter and the best one I know of is from Caspers Electronics.
Two steps up from stock would be to get a pair of HID projectors out of a factory HID equipped vehicle. Take the Audi A4 for example. Have the projectors custom implanted into your assemblies, and now you've got real HID performance and many times you can even get high beams, by implanting bi-xenon projectors. This is by far, the best upgrade you can make to your lighting. Again, I advise Philips brand 4100k bulbs.
You can get used parts off of ebay for resonable prices.. For an implant into stock headlights, figure 200 for bulbs and ballasts.. 30 for wires, fuses, relays... and around 60 for caspers adapters.
Projector implants.. 100-300 for a pair of projectors, from cheapest to highest demand.. 200 for bulbs/ballasts, 30 for wires, fuses, relays.. probably 200-500 for custom work/installation by a headlight builder.
Check out HIDplanet.com if you ever get serious and grow out of the 'blue bulb' phase and into real lighting.
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Originally Posted by A03
I've been through all phases of lighting upgrades...
If you spend $15 for blue coated halogen bulbs, you're going to get what you paid for. End of story. I have NEVER so far seen a pair of 'blue bulbs' as I like to call them, that honestly would outperform the stock Sylvanias. Using blue bulbs is 'RICE' it may look cool to some people who don't know anything about headlights, but it serves no purpose other than looks.. it will perform worse than stock bulbs.
If you want to go up ONE step in performance to real HID, and have a 2003 or older, you will need to find bulbs that have been adapted to work in a H4 socket. This means that the light source focal point will match the position of a H4 bulb, and there will be a physical shield under the bulb to block light from entering the high beam (lower portion) of the stock reflector. In this case you will lose high beams, but gain low beam lighting. If you buy GOOD bulbs and GOOD adapters, you will have pretty good lighting and not much glare. I recommend 4100K Philips brand D2S bulbs - the kind like you'd find in stock HID/projector equipped car AND a set of Casperselectronics H4 adapters/shields. If you have the caspers shields annodized black, you'll reduce glare further and make the lights look a bit more blueish to oncoming traffic. This is not a bad setup if you do 99% city driving and don't need high beams. ----------- DO NOT use D2S or D2R bulbs jambo'ed into your H4 socket. It will not work right, you must use a good shield/adapter and the best one I know of is from Caspers Electronics.
Two steps up from stock would be to get a pair of HID projectors out of a factory HID equipped vehicle. Take the Audi A4 for example. Have the projectors custom implanted into your assemblies, and now you've got real HID performance and many times you can even get high beams, by implanting bi-xenon projectors. This is by far, the best upgrade you can make to your lighting. Again, I advise Philips brand 4100k bulbs.
You can get used parts off of ebay for resonable prices.. For an implant into stock headlights, figure 200 for bulbs and ballasts.. 30 for wires, fuses, relays... and around 60 for caspers adapters.
Projector implants.. 100-300 for a pair of projectors, from cheapest to highest demand.. 200 for bulbs/ballasts, 30 for wires, fuses, relays.. probably 200-500 for custom work/installation by a headlight builder.
Check out HIDplanet.com if you ever get serious and grow out of the 'blue bulb' phase and into real lighting.
If you spend $15 for blue coated halogen bulbs, you're going to get what you paid for. End of story. I have NEVER so far seen a pair of 'blue bulbs' as I like to call them, that honestly would outperform the stock Sylvanias. Using blue bulbs is 'RICE' it may look cool to some people who don't know anything about headlights, but it serves no purpose other than looks.. it will perform worse than stock bulbs.
If you want to go up ONE step in performance to real HID, and have a 2003 or older, you will need to find bulbs that have been adapted to work in a H4 socket. This means that the light source focal point will match the position of a H4 bulb, and there will be a physical shield under the bulb to block light from entering the high beam (lower portion) of the stock reflector. In this case you will lose high beams, but gain low beam lighting. If you buy GOOD bulbs and GOOD adapters, you will have pretty good lighting and not much glare. I recommend 4100K Philips brand D2S bulbs - the kind like you'd find in stock HID/projector equipped car AND a set of Casperselectronics H4 adapters/shields. If you have the caspers shields annodized black, you'll reduce glare further and make the lights look a bit more blueish to oncoming traffic. This is not a bad setup if you do 99% city driving and don't need high beams. ----------- DO NOT use D2S or D2R bulbs jambo'ed into your H4 socket. It will not work right, you must use a good shield/adapter and the best one I know of is from Caspers Electronics.
Two steps up from stock would be to get a pair of HID projectors out of a factory HID equipped vehicle. Take the Audi A4 for example. Have the projectors custom implanted into your assemblies, and now you've got real HID performance and many times you can even get high beams, by implanting bi-xenon projectors. This is by far, the best upgrade you can make to your lighting. Again, I advise Philips brand 4100k bulbs.
You can get used parts off of ebay for resonable prices.. For an implant into stock headlights, figure 200 for bulbs and ballasts.. 30 for wires, fuses, relays... and around 60 for caspers adapters.
Projector implants.. 100-300 for a pair of projectors, from cheapest to highest demand.. 200 for bulbs/ballasts, 30 for wires, fuses, relays.. probably 200-500 for custom work/installation by a headlight builder.
Check out HIDplanet.com if you ever get serious and grow out of the 'blue bulb' phase and into real lighting.

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