DriftR

My car seems run fine up until i stop or I go as low as 5% throttle position.
Currently, my car is running in open loop. I know from the richer than normal AFR. But then as soon as i slow or stop, it BOGS and runs sooo lean (18-20 AFR) no matter how much i step on it....actually makes it worse when I step on it and the car can BARELY even move..... Its as if NO fuel will being shot in even at idle!!! BUt when I shut the car off, it is temporarily fine for the next mile or until i stop/slow again. I need some realy help guys. I have emanage/turbo installed, but these problems are occuring after several months of problem free running.

Also might wanna mention that on cold start, cars idles rough for about 5 secs.,.....as if 1 cylinder isn't firing. plugs looks good.

ronaldo9

iTrader: (6)

Check your fuel pump it could be going. You might want to upgrade to a walbro 255lph since you're turbo anyway.

DriftR

Would that also explain why I'm running on open loop?
Although your explaination does seem plausible because it just seems as if the fuel cuts out completly when those symptoms occur.
Any other ideas guys? I can't afford replacing parts based on guess tho.

ronaldo9

iTrader: (6)

Are you throwing codes? Scan for codes first bc there's no way to really be sure. Check your injectors. If you maxed them out somehow they won't be working properly either. I'd run some fuel system cleaner in there just for the hell of it. I hope you find out whats wrong bc this can be detrimental to your engine.

PS if you're in open loop you should always be at about 14.7 or richer so I can't see how you're running that lean, so talk to a mechanic asap. But ya scan for codes foremost.

DriftR

I was throwing codes, but before I scanned it, it dissappreared. I'm still having the problem but the CEL is off. And yeah I am in open loop cuz when i run in cruise, it's got a 11-12 AFR....and then all of a sudden it goes to 18-20.....then I gotta shut tthe car off and restart it again....WHILE I'M driving! thank god I have a manual.

Can it be a bad O2?

ronaldo9

iTrader: (6)

I woulnd't rule out a faulty O2 sensor but I would think the cel would stay on. Replacing one is like 60 bucks and I wouldn't want you to waste money on it if its not the problem.

DriftR

I am wondering though, even if it was the O2, it wouldn't give me bogging at idle immediatly after a cold start. The O2s aren't even being used until they heat up anyway. As for the pump, I can still get away with 8psi 12.5AFR WOT....so I do in fact get the fuel delivery.. but then bogging and leaning symptoms would come out of the blue.

Ive been reading some threads in honda-tech and some say it can also be bad MAP sensors, pcv or even a bad injector(none of my plugs are white though). Any ideas?
(I 'm stilling leaning towards the bad pump theory though)

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

You take your foot off the gas, the car is gonna drop off the AFR chart. Thats not an issue at all, the car spits just enough gas in when there's 0 load to keep it running. What you're seeing is normal.

ronaldo9

iTrader: (6)

Boilermaker is right but if your lean at idle try to add some fuel back on the emanage to get the afr's down a bit. Perhaps you're pulling to much fuel in your lower rpms at that particular throttle position, that is just a guess. Do you street tune?

DriftR

Nah man, once it hits that lean bog thing, it STAYS that way no matter how much I press the throttle and the engine seems like it's gonna blow up. And it even hits that lean/bog when I'm driving....
I rented a car this morning cuz I wouldn't even make it around the block going faster than 2 mph.
And, my tune is fine 12.5WOT, 14.6 cruise, 14.2 idle, I was running all hunky dorry until 3 days ago, the fuel was intermittantly shut off on me.

DriftR

Lemme paint a better picture.

3 days ago
I stop at a red. All was fine
Then AFR hits 18. Car wants to stall.
Step on the throttle to keep it from stalling,
Open throttle plate lets in more air--> AFR hits 20+ and does not rev
THEREFORE no fuel is going in even as I open throttle plate.
Shut engine off and on. I can drive again, for about 1 mile...happens again even when cruising.

n_flow

my friend had a similar problem with his jeep wrangler. you might want to check the fuel filter, thats what was wrong with his. it would sometimes stall, die out, or stumble. turn car off, then later it would be fine again for a little while. but yeah check out the fuel filter man. otherwise im thinking its that emanage

keep us posted

DriftR

Thanks for the reply. But do you think it would be the emanage when I didn't touch it for the last 2 months?

ronaldo9

iTrader: (6)

I'll give u a scenario. I had my emanage in my glove box since November. Past couple weeks my car has been REALLY funny. Throwing crazy codes.. like map sensor, O2 high voltage and the works. I moved it to in front of the cabin filters and now the car is running code free for the past couple days. Makes me believe the wires were getting crimped somehow. It could be as simple as that.

DriftR

Well, I ordered a BBK 255LPH intank pump and hope that will solve my problems, looked at the ECU wiring and relays 1&2, those seem ok. Because my CEL is not coming on, I believe it is a intermittant mechanical problem with the pump.

I'll let you guys know. BTW, any tips on installing it?

DriftR

Ok, everyones been saying fuel pump fuel pump....as reason being no CEL.

Fuel pump replaced with a walboro 255, and PROBLEM is still there!!!!
To me it really seems like I have an primary 02 sensor problem, cuz once it warms up everything starts to run into the 20 AFR. But then why is there no CEL???? And why is my cold start so "rumbly" for 30 secs. And why am i running on open loop and then closed loop, then open loop again?

n_flow

closed loop to open loop? and back? check your connections and the ect sensor itself, because for closed loop you need the o2, some time, and the ect. but you probably already knew that =/. but check the fuel filter!!!!!! haha. and what is CEL? sorry heh

bomerman19

iTrader: (1)

Hey do you still have the cat on. cause I got the same sort of problem once. My car would start dragging getting worse and worse, and if I stopped at a light or slowed down any it would get worse and no matter how many times a down shifted and gave it more gas it would just bog down more. It finally just stopped and stalled and would not start got it towed home, next day it starts up and drives fine for a couple of miles and goes right back into the same problem. We found out that what was happening was for some weird reason the ecu was giving it too much gas and eventually it clogged up flooded and killed the cat. which just caused to much back pressure and made the engine choke.

DriftR

Well, fuel pump replaced, O2 sensor replaced. Guess what??? PROBLEM still there and I threw a code p0132(HO2S bank 1 high voltage). Interestingly though, the problem only happens 1 min after startup. Once I shut the car off and start again, prblem goes away.

I did some more research on it. Our O2 governs AFR once it reaches operating temp is met and/or time limit. It seems like though, the sensor is passing overly rich readings(high voltage, therefore ECU leans out fuel as a feedback) when the ECU starts to take signals from it.

Apparently, in my case, when I shut down and restart my car, I get another minute before signals from the o2 sensor are used. By then, the sensor warms up, good signals are being pass to the ECU and thats why I can drive it.

The only problems that I should be having is faulty sensor heating and/or sensor voltage are being interfered with. Possibly the ground in wires are interefereing with the voltage signal wire. That makes sense as sensor warms, voltage resistance in the heating element goes up there cutting off the interferences to btn the heating/signal wires......thats why I can drive when the car is warmed up.

I'll check everything and then let you guys know.

raj

Reviving an old post again.

Just wanted to know if DTC p0132 was resolved for DriftR as im getting the same code. Anyone please reply.