stryder12

completely stock, 177,000 miles. timing belt replaced around 165,000.

I recently had some issues with CEL coming on and throwing codes p0420, p1259, p1361, and p1362. after bringing it to a friends to check it out, he recommended replacing my catalytic converter and seeing if that took care of it. I found a place that would chop off my old cat only and weld a new one (magnaflow OEM) in it's place. after 800 miles or so of smooth driving, I had the CEL come on again and went into limp mode. this was after a rush hour afternoon commute with the A/C on and stop and go traffic. I got off the highway and went through the idle re-learn procedure and made my way home. fast forward a few weeks and I am driving home again, same thing, A/C on and in stop and go traffic. boom, CEL. I make it to an autoparts store to pull code and it is p1361 only. I am now starting to believe there is a correlation between the A/C being on/warm environment conditions and this happening.

after some research the past few days, I am hoping to replace my TDC sensor myself as it does not seem too difficult, though it won't be easy as I am extremely green when it comes to engine work. I have a mechanical aptitude however so I am confident I will be able to get it done, I just want to make sure I understand all directions beforehand and that I have all items I may need. I am also planning to do a coolant flush and replace my valve cover gasket at the same time.

so basically, I am wanting to make a checklist based on what others have done, and hoping some of you can advise if I need to add/remove anything. so for the items required..

items to purchase
OEM Honda TDC sensor (part no. 37840-RJH-006)
Permatex 82194 ultra grey rigid high-torque RTV silicone gasket maker
OEM Honda head cover gasket (part no. 12341-PLC-000)
2 gallons distilled water
2 gallons honda type 2 coolant (part no. OL999-9011)
coolant drain plug washer (anyone know part number/will oil drain crush washer work?)

would I be better served performing one item before the other? is there a reason to replace the TDC sensor before coolant flush or vice versa?

once I know if there is a preferred order to this job, then I will be able to sequence and come up with a plan of attack.

thank you to all that have read before and I look forward to hearing your insights. cheers!

ezone

Cam sensor is fairly easy IMO. Valve cover and upper timing cover come off.
If the valve cover gasket was replaced when the timing belt was done, it would probably be safe to reuse it. If it's old then replace it.

Does that valve cover gasket you list include the 4 tube seals? I'd replace them too. When you set the valve cover on, make sure the lips of the 4 tube seals don't get caught on top of any tube, that can cause the tube to fill with oil.






Coolant, totally separate work. Nothing overlaps IMO.



The Honda Type 2 coolant is already mixed 50/50, there is no need to add your own water. DO NOT ADD WATER! (The bottles say this too.)

If you only do a simple drain and fill using the radiator drain, it will probably only hold one gallon at the most, including the reservoir.

No washer needed for the radiator drain. Loosen the drainplug only a turn or two until liquid flows straight down, do not completely remove the plug or you will make a big mess.

If you want to use the block drain plug, it's a huge PITA IMO. The only time I really use that one is when I'm going to do a head gasket job without replacing the water pump.

Routine coolant service is a simple drain and fill, drained from the radiator drain.



If you changed the water pump during the timing belt service, you should have received new coolant along with the job.....If so, you probably wouldn't really be due for another coolant change yet.



HTH

stryder12

thank you for the response. I ended up getting the full gasket set rather than only the valve cover gasket, to replace the seals as you mentioned.

my theory of this issue being related to the A/C being on has been crushed however, as yesterday I was driving on the highway in 80* F and higher temps for over 30 minutes and the same malfunction happened (MIL, loss of power, p1361). so there is obviously a connection between running hot for an extended period of time and this code popping up, what exactly it is though I have not specified it.

my TDC sensor came in the mail today, I am waiting on a few other items I ordered before jumping into the replacement next week, but I will update once i've got everything in place and see if that took care of my issue. keeping my fingers crossed it does.

in the meantime, if anyone else has any similar experience, I would love to hear about it or if you've already posted a link would be much appreciated!

ezone

Failures in electronics are quite often affected by temperatures.

stryder12

was able to do the switch and change my oil this weekend. I haven't had a chance to drive more than 50 miles at a time, but hoping to give it a shot this weekend and see if it ended up taking care of my problem. haven't had any issues since the replacement so it's all good so far. also, this link was instrumental in helping me through this as someone not terribly experienced working on my engine [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxe3_m5uDIA]

one tip, keep track of everything you do. removing a part, shifting something out of the way, anything you do, keep track of it someway. whether it's writing it down, taking pics, or just keeping the parts you remove in order (my preferred way), make sure you take things off and replace them in the same order, otherwise you're bound to be frustrated.

another thing, if you remove the ignition coil tube seals, stick a screwdriver at an angle into the side of one from the top of the valve cover and hit it with a hammer. it is much easier and efficient than trying to pry them out with needlenose pliers.

stryder12

just to update and hopefully help anyone else who finds themselves in my situation..

after having power loss and entering limp mode before shutting down while driving in warm temperatures with and without the A/C on and throwing a p1361 code, replacing the TDC sensor has completely fixed the issue for me.

a few resources that helped (some directly, some indirectly but still related)

1) similar instance

2) excellent information, not totally related

3) car repair/general info reference. username rrcc password ebsco

4)


hopefully the information above helps somebody else out of a pinch and saves them a couple hundred bucks down the line.

thanks to all that assisted and for all who have posted their experiences and advice on other threads.