Alex_fl05

Ok, so I put a LSVtec swap into my EM1. Civic 00 ClubCivic.com thread.
The Block is B18a and tranny is LS as well.
I drove straight forward, no problems; drove backwards, even while turning, no problems.
But when I turn either left or right while going forward, I hear a loud knock coming from the front, as if the axles are bad.
I replaced both pass. and drivers side axles from Autozone with 94 Integra LS (w.o ABS) axles.
And still this problem persists.
I banged out bottom, driver's ball joint from another civic and put it in and still its grinding bad.
I jacked up the car in the air and accelerated while turning the wheels left and right but there was no problem. As soon as I put it down unto the wheels and turn, it makes that loud grinding noise, as if its about to pop out or something, dih dih dih. The only axle piece I didn't replace is the male halfshaft.

Any help? Please let me know asap. I've been working on this car all year long and I really wanna drive it already. I just did the swap and started driving and it suddenly made this grinding/popping noise.

Alex_fl05

You guys might think its got something to do with the axles?

ezone

Links fail?

You know we can't see or hear the noise right? Got video?


Ummmm......Did you roll the car without the axles in and the big axle nuts torqued? Could have damaged the wheel bearings if you did.

Knock: A single or somewhat random pop each time you swerve left or right? LCA bolts not tight enough? Other suspension bolts tight? (Torqued to specs, without rust or corrosion on the threads, etc.)

Axles usually make about 6 pops per wheel revolution when the outer CV is shot, but that can vary a lot.

Axles (outer CV joint) usually make the most noise when flexed at the max angle and loaded: Sharp turn and accelerate like turning a sharp corner taking off from a stop. "Poppitapoppitapoppitapoppita"



All I can do is guess, man. HTH

Alex_fl05

Sorry bout those links..


(Driver's Side) You can see The CV axle goes back about 15 degrees.


(Driver's Side) Notice how the boots are slanted at those angles? Also, the wheels are turned Right a little.

(Passenger Side) Is this slight bend in the angle of the shafts normal?


Here's a really bad video, Bad exhaust. As you can see, I'm almost done putting it together lol.
I'll try to take a better video tomorrow, since its hard to hear in this one.




I only rolled the car when I got it from the auction and it had no motor no axles just suspension and wheels. When I put everything on, I didn't roll it until I started and drove it. Had knocking/grinding from the very beginning.

Even when I gradually turn the wheel and drive forward I hear grinding, and about 2-3 knocks per second, very loud KNOCKS. ticktickdushtickdushdush. I'll have better detail tomorrow.


All the bolts are tight. Very tight. Not torqued, never do. But as tight as can be. Used a 1 foot bar to loosen the bolts.

With the car sitting on the wheels, the axles are bent a little bit UP and a little bit BACK. About 15 degrees.

Halfshaft cannot create a problem since there's no noise when going straight right?
I just don't wanna run outta ideas
HTH

ezone

Axles/CV joints must operate over a wide range of angles. None of your pics show anything unusual.

Video: difficult to discern.......need more, like go in a complete circle? Right now it sounds like CV joint pop though.

That is very hard on wheel bearings. The stub of the CV shaft and its nut are what keep the bearing races held together tightly. Without it, the races are free to spread out when there is weight placed on them, and get trashed. I don't think that is your clicking though.

But it might be the grind noise.


Too loose is too loose, and too tight can be too loose too.

Oh yes they can.
They usually just make noise going straight when they are really really bad.


You got cheap axles---I'd say try some more, whichever side is noisy.
Unless the next video shows something different.

Alex_fl05

Sorry I took so long, I finally got it outside.

It doesn't grind when I go straight, only when I turn.
And I didn't rip the thread. I ripped too many and have a feel for them. Screwed, unscrewed, it was good.

Yea I was thinking about that, just they'll be expensive, my budget is kinda tight.

Here's the videos. I hope it helps more.







It seems as if the Passenger side is making more noise. When I turn left, it starts to knock Realll loud.

HTH...

ezone

Sure sounds like outer CV joints popping from where I'm sitting.

My guess: Keep getting warranty axles until you get some quiet ones.

Alex_fl05

My uncle said the axles shouldn't be bent back like that. Too many angles...
He's a long time ACE mechanic. I'm just wondering if the axle is bent (Tooo much), will it pop like that?

I would wanna compare with other Si's, see how their axles look underneath, on weight.

I'll try to find some good brand axles if I can find some cheap ones.

ezone

What do you think happens to the axle angles as the suspension moves up and down, or as you turn the steering wheel?

The axles are double jointed, a CV at each end... They can run at more than a 45 degree angle on the outer end, and about 30 degrees on the inner joint without any problems.
Your car is dropped and swapped.
The angles are what they are.
The angles are well within the range they are designed to operate in.
Not a problem.

As long as the axles are the correct lengths. They can't be bottomed out in the cup of the inner joints. But that would probably try to shove the drivetrain side to side if either one was.




So why isn't HE telling you what the pop noises are?

Wait....
ACE is a hardware store.
ASE (NIASE) is the testing and certification organization.
Gotcha.

The axle shaft itself isn't bent.

Only the bad CV's make noise.

Plenty are dropped, with no axle noise.

I don't think that combination exists. LOL

Alex_fl05

Haha that's what I was looking for lol. He'd want to see it but lives in another state...


I forgot to add one thing. The LS tranny has a Kaaz 1.5 LSD. I bought it with the tranny for $400. Too good to be true. The shaft and shim I got replaced, but never looked into the LSD. Its a clutch LSD.
Since LSDs work under pressure only, I'm thinking if my LSD is bad and needs a new one.

Alex_fl05

Alright I think I'm getting somewhere...

This link is giving me better higher hopes.

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=965534

http://www.vadriven.com/forums/tech-...roblem-224142/

And a response from Kaaz tech

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?p=45266988

Seems like Clutch LSDs shake the whole front end. And make clunking noise. Tomorrow Ima try going fast. It seemed like the faster I made that circle the less the car clunked and shook.

ezone

Sooooo...If he's in another state, how did he determineif he can't see it up close?

Nevermind. Not relevant.




Never really had to deal with a clutched limited slip diff in a FWD car, almost everything I touch is stock.
Can't be much different from a RWD application as far as failures though, and I've dealt with plenty of those.

I'd imagine a clutch type would moan, shudder, or chatter if it had issues, not have the consistent crackle/pops of bad outer CV joints that yours has.

Alex_fl05

I guess you didn't check those links out.. It talked about the problems with not just any LSDs but Kaaz clutch LSD, specifically. They need special treatment. I bought some Valvoline 80w/90 gear oil with Friction Modifier. Drained my previous tranny fluids, poured this stuff in there.

It was an experience to drive... I drove forward and turned, and for about 2 revolutions, the whole side front bounced up. I pressed the clutch then released it and kept driving and after it mixed in, it became soo good to drive.

Drove from side to side while in 2nd and no noise at all. Drove 10MPH in first, no noise. Drove at a crawl and turned and heard some clicking noise, which is totally normal for a Kaaz.

Problem solved, Yes!!

Thanks for the effort ezone

ezone

I was still typing when you posted the links. I did read a bit, I sorta figured you'd have some sort of answer in them.

The conditions your diff popped were the same as the conditions where bad CV joints pop. Sharp turn and under a load. Glad it was an easy fix, at any rate.

Amazing to me that your locker would make such an insane amount of racket.

I'd think a Torsen diff would be much easier to work with.
But again, I've never really had to deal with what you have there.