whitecivic2003

right on. i am gonna run a 500/1 on it , you can see the top of it in the pic. and i still have to use some glass to do the wheel well area and the front of the box. then get it painted i think or maybe wrapped in swede.

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

500/1v2?
I'll stab you, because I want one D:

But then again, I wish I could my 12w3v2 for a 12w3v3

Oh well, with my budget, beggers cant be choosers :S

whitecivic2003

i guess i shouldn't tell you about 300/4 on the 2 sets of jl 6.5 separates i have installed already. you may whip out he ak47 on me lol .
yea man i feel you on the budget thing i only managed to afford this set up since i was an installer for a few years and worked for jl at one point in my life. so got some great discounts on them.

here is a link to the jl system hat i designed and installed in my friends s2000 and the carbon fiber stuff too. http://s1024.photobucket.com/albums/...%20on%20S2000/

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

AK?
I think i'd step it up, and whip out the AT4.... :P

And I'm currently still running my W3 on an Xplod amp, so I think you can feel my pain a little...
This guy offered me a M600/1 for.... $300!!! Completely brand new in box, not even out of the wrapping yet
I almost had an impulse buy, but no. I was smart, I purposely didn't bring any money to tempt myself.

DtaWat

Hey guys.. I'm not going to put in the RE 12's or the JL 15

I just baught a DC level 5 12 in a ported box.. The box looks to be small enough fo fit behind my driver or passenger seat instead of the trunk. I kinda want to put it behind my driver seat just because I think I would get a lot better sound and eliminate trunk rattle without having to spend more money for dynomat...

What do you guys think?

DtaWat

Need an anwser soon, might be doing it today.

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

I wouldnt waste passenger space for a sub,
+ having a heavy object behind you while you drive is not a smart idea

I'd keep it in the trunk, my 1 JL12W3 is loud enough to hear me several blocks down, so....

DtaWat

Do you hear a lot of rattle when standing outside of the car? If not, what did you do to eliminate the rattle? Dynomat?

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

I havent had the funds to sound deaden my car yet...

But if i do, it will be second skin

I will try to do a distance test with my sub sometime this weekend, if you want to wait that long, I havent really heard my car's outside much, but the bass response inside is tight and nice (mind out of gutter)

Main rattle is mostly license plate, but dynomat sells license plate deadener kit for about $10

instalher

dont put all three subs in the car.. period... seems to be alot of misunderstood facts being thrown around on this thread.. placing different size drivers in your car is like placing differenct size tires on your car.. ya it will still drive but you sacrifice handling and efficiency.. i would definitly do the dual 12s in a slot ported box with the port vented out the top of the rear parcel tray... now that being said if you really really want to run all three then you will have to use the 15 xover from 50hz down at 36db/oct. in a sealed box, then use the 12s placed upfront somehow running from 63 hz to 800hz with an agressive slope on the lp and very aggressive on the hp... now the tweeter will have to play extreamly low so your options are really limited.. i would recommend a tang band 2514 ceramic tweeter it will play down to 800 hz but xover must be 36db/oct.. now that being said, you now have to run some delays to get the midbass to blend nicely with the tweets so i would recommend getting the pioneer dex-p99rs head unit, does everything, not cheap but does everything... man its alot of work to make those subs work just ditch the 15..

instalher

kfjkaklavlk

DtaWat

What do you guys think of this idea posted in recent thread?

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

Sorry I forgot to post my distance test

Here is my vid:
Video recorder not the best at capturing sound, but if you have a computer sub, or good headphones, you'll prolly hear it good enough
Keep in mind this is only 280 RMS and volume at 18/35 (which i typically listen to)
And those speakers are powered by head unit alone, no amp
[Youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzAnDSQYROA[/Youtube]

PS.
Are you only running your car on that single Kinetik battery?
I hope not
Kinetiks are power cells, not starter batteries.

Also, if it's only $500~800, go for it if you have the funds, looks nice, Dont know if it'll do much for the rattles though
I'd rather spend $200 to fully sound deaden the car

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

Definitely too late if you've already bought speakers, but most coupe owners should know, rear speakers kill the sound stage inside the vehicles, and if you don't have speaker baffles on those rear 6x9's, you might as well be stabbing them with forks.
That sub will eat those speakers alive.

And if you're looking into a new sub carnoobie, I'd look into the JL Audio TW5, slim mount sub, but heavy hitter.
Heavy price tag too though.

I was thinking about adding 1" tweeters, or 3" speakers on my rear side panels, it'd be a nice addition, but I dont know if i got the guts to drill into my panel lol

Also, I've gotten all but a couple rattles in my coupe:
The trunk floorboard, and the headliner of the roof
Floorboard i plan to MDF that sucker, and headliner should be a quick fix, just been too lazy to do so

whitecivic2003

worked on it some more here are some pics



Finished

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

Looks good, any plans on how you will keep it from tipping over?

whitecivic2003

Thanks and yup it gets bolted to the car from inside the box . does 2 things holds it down which is a must with any sub box (for sound and safety )and makes it harder to steal.