Low mileage D17 engine parts
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Low mileage D17 engine parts
For sale are many OEM engine parts that came from either a 2002 D17A1 with 28k miles or 2001 D17A1 with 4k miles. All parts have been cleaned and are in very good condition. Any of these parts are compatible with any 2001-2003 Civic LXs or DXs and possibly EXs (I'll help research if interested). If there are parts that you need but don't see them here don't hesitate to ask.
PM me or post up a reply if you're interested. Multiple item discounts available. Everything is negotiable. Paypal or MO accepted. All prices are shipped prices within the USA unless otherwise noted.
I also have a few sensors available from these engines for the inflation busting price of only $10 shipped.
And now the parts with pics:
Oil pickup - Comes with nuts and bolts. $12 shipped
Crank Pulley - Comes with bolt. $35 shipped
Oil Pump - Only used for 4k miles. Includes bolts. $25 shipped
Water Pipe - $15 shipped.
D17A1 Fuel Rail - $25 shipped
Timing belt pulley - $12 shipped
Upper Timing Cover - $10 shipped
Breather Chamber (includes bolts) - $8 shipped
Resonator stay (includes bolts) - $8 shipped
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Crank End Cap - Sold
Lower timing belt cover - Comes with bolts. Sold to speedfoos
Power steering bracket - Sold to Jdm01Em2
Oil Pan - Sold to boostedem2
Coil packs, Water Pump, A/C and alternator bracket, D17A1 Injectors - Sold to ryox82
Thermostat manifold - Sold to PitchBlack
D17A1 Injectors - w/5k miles of use sold to tuningmycivic
Engine bracket sold to Speedfoos
Valve cover sold to Honda05
D17A1 OEM PLM Pistons & rods w/ 4k miles of use sold to civicsrcool
D17A1 OEM PLM Pistons & rods w/ 28k miles of use sold to blueninjacivic
Timing belt tensioner sold to damian02civic.
PM me or post up a reply if you're interested. Multiple item discounts available. Everything is negotiable. Paypal or MO accepted. All prices are shipped prices within the USA unless otherwise noted.
I also have a few sensors available from these engines for the inflation busting price of only $10 shipped.
And now the parts with pics:
Oil pickup - Comes with nuts and bolts. $12 shipped
Crank Pulley - Comes with bolt. $35 shipped
Oil Pump - Only used for 4k miles. Includes bolts. $25 shipped
Water Pipe - $15 shipped.
D17A1 Fuel Rail - $25 shipped
Timing belt pulley - $12 shipped
Upper Timing Cover - $10 shipped
Breather Chamber (includes bolts) - $8 shipped
Resonator stay (includes bolts) - $8 shipped
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Crank End Cap - Sold
Lower timing belt cover - Comes with bolts. Sold to speedfoos
Power steering bracket - Sold to Jdm01Em2
Oil Pan - Sold to boostedem2
Coil packs, Water Pump, A/C and alternator bracket, D17A1 Injectors - Sold to ryox82
Thermostat manifold - Sold to PitchBlack
D17A1 Injectors - w/5k miles of use sold to tuningmycivic
Engine bracket sold to Speedfoos
Valve cover sold to Honda05
D17A1 OEM PLM Pistons & rods w/ 4k miles of use sold to civicsrcool
D17A1 OEM PLM Pistons & rods w/ 28k miles of use sold to blueninjacivic
Timing belt tensioner sold to damian02civic.
Last edited by sql_civic; Mar 15, 2010 at 07:28 PM.
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From: Portland, Oregon
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Dope- Great for sale thread. I'm sorry I cant help ya out with taking any of those things off your hands. My question is why do you have them all in the first place-what kind of build are you doing?
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I'm doing a stroked and over bored D16 build so I needed a crank from a D17. I had picked up an engine from a local guy last year and parted that out only to find out that the crank was bad last month after cleaning it up. That engine only had 28k on it. So a couple of weeks ago I went to a junk yard in Yonkers, NY and grabbed the lowest mileage engine they had (4k miles). That crank looks like new. All the rest of the parts are up for grabs and in really good shape.
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might pick up the 4k set of pistons and rods. mind me asking this noob question; are the rod bearings specific to the rod or to the crank? do you have any proof that the pistons have only 4k on em? PM me and let me know. thanks bro
do you also have an extra crank? preferably one to match the 4k mile set of piston and rods. thanks
do you also have an extra crank? preferably one to match the 4k mile set of piston and rods. thanks
Last edited by civicsrcool; Apr 6, 2008 at 05:41 PM.
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Rod bearings are specific to both rod and crank. There's a number stamped on the rod and a letter stamped on the crank next to the rod journal. You then use these values to look up the appropriate size bearings. Finally, you assemble it and measure with plastigage.
I have the paperwork from the salvage yard where I bought the engine which says 4k miles on it. I can send you a copy if you like. Based on the pristine condition of the parts I removed from it I have no reason to believe that this is inacurate. I also have the VIN number if you like you can run a CarFAX on it to verify. I can also take close up photos of the pistons if you like there is very little wear on the skirts.
Sorry I don't have the crank. It's the reason I bougth the motor and have all these other parts to part out.
I have the paperwork from the salvage yard where I bought the engine which says 4k miles on it. I can send you a copy if you like. Based on the pristine condition of the parts I removed from it I have no reason to believe that this is inacurate. I also have the VIN number if you like you can run a CarFAX on it to verify. I can also take close up photos of the pistons if you like there is very little wear on the skirts.
Sorry I don't have the crank. It's the reason I bougth the motor and have all these other parts to part out.
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cool. i think i will pick up those 4k pistons and rods from you then. PM me your contact info/paypal info! thanks mang 
.. ohhh and i was wondering, i dont see the rings in the picture but do you still have the rings? lmk. thanks.
do you have the 28k mile crank? lol
.. ohhh and i was wondering, i dont see the rings in the picture but do you still have the rings? lmk. thanks.do you have the 28k mile crank? lol
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I'm pretty sure I have most of the rings but they are in one pile so they are not matched up with the piston. Regardless, you should use new rings because these have been broken into the block they came out of. In other words, they have been worn out to match the shape of the original cylinder and probably won't seal well in a new block. But if you want them to practice installing or whatever, let me know and I'll throw them in.
I do have the 28k mile crank but the #1 journal is egg-shaped. That's why I went out and got another motor, this time with only 4k on it. (You'd think a 28k crank would be in great shape especially when the bearing didn't look like it spun.) You can have it if you want it for the cost of shipping but I assume you want a good one.
I'll PM you my Paypal.
I do have the 28k mile crank but the #1 journal is egg-shaped. That's why I went out and got another motor, this time with only 4k on it. (You'd think a 28k crank would be in great shape especially when the bearing didn't look like it spun.) You can have it if you want it for the cost of shipping but I assume you want a good one.
I'll PM you my Paypal.
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yeah i need to practice installing before i try and pull off the real install. so could i please have the rings . it seems like you know what your talking about so do you recommend replacing the main bearings and thrust bearings along with the crank or should it be fine? trying to make a block that like wont break lol. had 3 motors and all 3 motors spun rod bearings. 2 on boosted set ups and 1 on a fully stock set up -__-.
payment sent btw!
. it seems like you know what your talking about so do you recommend replacing the main bearings and thrust bearings along with the crank or should it be fine? trying to make a block that like wont break lol. had 3 motors and all 3 motors spun rod bearings. 2 on boosted set ups and 1 on a fully stock set up -__-. payment sent btw!
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OK, the rings are yours.
I don't really know exactly what changes you're making to your motor. If you're replacing the crank or rods then you should use new bearings. If you're just doing the rods and then you could just inspect the crank bearings for excessive wear and check the tolerances with plastigauge to be sure they're still within service limits. Vice versa as well.
Got your payment. Thank you! I expect to ship tomorrow.
I don't really know exactly what changes you're making to your motor. If you're replacing the crank or rods then you should use new bearings. If you're just doing the rods and then you could just inspect the crank bearings for excessive wear and check the tolerances with plastigauge to be sure they're still within service limits. Vice versa as well.
Got your payment. Thank you! I expect to ship tomorrow.
