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Hello Everyone,

My girlfriend has an 05 Civic (1.7L Auto w/ 265,000 kms) that starting having transmission issues yesterday. The "D" light started flashing and it would engage hard when pulled into drive. When you try to accelerate, it acts like it's stuck in high gear. If you pull it down into "2", it takes off like normal. The code reader brings up the P0963 and P0967 codes which corresponds to Pressure Controls Solenoids A and B. When I cleared these codes, they come back automatically. Here is a list of what I have checked:

1. I removed Solenoids A and B and tested for resistance. Both returned approximately 5 Ohms. I then put battery power to each, they clicked and opened like normal.
2. Both transmission fluid levels and the colour are normal.
3. I checked the wires leading to the solenoids and they appear fine.

Has anyone else had these issues and if so, what else should I check?

Mike

 
Rep Power: 518

You DID make sure you checked the correct solenoids? There are a lot, they can get confusing.


At this point you should have a service manual and hopefully a good wiring diagram.
I would disconnect the appropriate PCM connectors and do the same ohm check at the wires that lead to each solenoid. If you had 5 ohms on each solenoid then you better have the same value when doing the same test at the PCM connectors.
Then connect one meter lead to ground and proceed to recheck each of the 4 wires to make sure none have any continuity to ground.
This verifies wiring integrity from the PCM to each of the solenoids..

 
Rep Power: 133

Most likely an electrical issue and not mechanical - phew!

Check the Linear Solenoid A and B (flat one with 2 solenoids together - not the 2 separate ones I think you are referring to in your post) and its circuit to and from PCM, for bad connections, shorts or poor ground. Basically what "ezone" above advised.

Linear Solenoid A B is part #10 in this diagram: https://parts.sonshonda.com/showAsse...rimLevel=24777

 
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I'm also dealing with these codes on a 2005 1.7 automatic. I've found conflicting information about which solenoid (#10 or #8) corresponds to the codes for Valve A and Valve B. On this diagnostic website https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ho...-and-B-tests-1 it seems to identify the A/B solenoid as the part #8, SHIFT Solenoid with the green and blue wires. Checking resistance on the Shift Solenoid #8 I get 19.9 while testing the Linear Solenoid #10 I get 6.1.

The dealers I have talked with do not have the A/B identifiers to distinguish these parts. Any further advice? Thanks!

Edit- Okay: That troubleshoot website uses different language to identify part #8 (Shift Solenoid A and B) and #10 (Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A and B). When I pulled the codes P0963 and P0967 it came up as Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A High Input and Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve High Input. So I think I am dealing with #10, linear solenoid p/n 28250-PLX-305

 
Rep Power: 518

Correct. Dealer parts catalog does not identify these the same way troubleshooting guide does. I will refer to a wiring diagram manual EVERY TIME to find this info and make sure of what I'm dealing with.

(Nothing sucks more than replacing the wrong parts. Shift solenoids are not the same as CPCSV- A/B)




P0963 Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A
P0967 CPCSV-B
Both of these particular codes are strictly electrical faults.


The TS chart you linked looks incorrect, I did not see the correct solenoids for these codes pictured on your link (did not read much of the text either)

 
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"Both of these particular codes are strictly electrical faults."

Does this mean I should be looking at the wiring harness instead of the solenoid?

New solenoid came today but after install the D4 light was still flashing (maybe faster than before?) and the rough shifting seemed even worse! I had the battery out but haven't checked diagnostic codes since new install.

 
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Checking the wires at the PCM: When checking the wiring to each solenoid, does continuity go from one connector's Valve A wire to the other connector Valve A wire? And same for Valve B? From what I found on this forum, In connector 3 (C) Pin 8 brown/white is pressure control solenoid B and pin 1 white/black is valve A; connector 2 (B) pin 16 black/red is valve B, pin 7 red/black is pressure control solenoid valve A. https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...g-diagram.html Does this seem correct?

Partly posting for future searchers, but also want to get it rolling again! Thanks for any advice.

 
Rep Power: 518

Electrical includes everything from the computer to the solenoids in question.


Strictly electrical. means it cannot be caused by a mechanical problem inside the transmission.

The solenoids in question are still electrical components ......if replacing them didnt solve the problem it's time to get a service manual and a volt-ohm meter and diagnose?

 
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Did you figure out the cause of this problem? My 2004 civic is behaving the same way (intermittently), with the same 2 codes.

 
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With help I narrowed it down to a bad PCM.

Instead of shelling out for a new computer ($700), I bought a cheap scan tool ($30) to keep plugged into the OBD port. I guess this fools the PCM into thinking all is well. I check for new codes weekly, but have not had issues with the shifting, blinking D light, etc. with the scanner plugged in. No need to scan codes or run tests, just having the thing plugged in has allowed for many miles of normal driving.

Note that the scan tool uses car battery power so if parked for longer periods it would be wise to unplug it. I plan to get a port extension cord so it will be easier to plug/unplug the scan tool but have not been frustrated with this procedure enough to add that yet and mostly just leave it plugged in. It's a daily driver.

 
Rep Power: 133

A used PCM (part # needs to be an exact match) should be cheap - no need for new OEM.

 
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More likely having that plugged in is providing a ground/power connection your PCM is not getting otherwise.

Agree it could still be a bad pcm, but it also might just be a broken connection elsewhere.

 
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I’m having this same issue. Pretty sure it’s the PCM at this point. How involved is it to change a pcm? And how do I identify the right part when purchasing used online?

additionally, my radio head unit keeps turning off and on intermittently while driving. Any possible correlation?

 
Rep Power: 133

Check for loose alternator bolts frying the PCM. Common issue as these bolts act as the ground for the alternator. Correct this before installing new or used PCM if this is the issue.

 
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I noticed that one of the grounds (from engine to radiator) was frayed and broken so I’m going to be replacing and upgrading all three major grounds. Could this cause some of these issues?

 
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It's certainly not helping being broken