When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Car turns on and idles roughly, press get let go then stalls? (2004 Honda Civic GX)
I was driving back home the other day and everything seemed fine. Out of nowhere on a stop my car began to shake then it just turned off and wouldn't turn back on. I was able to make it crank when I turned the key but no luck on getting it started so I had it get towed home.
My brother and I worked on it, and we change the Air Temp Sensor but there was no luck. Today we cleaned the Throttle Body and the Idle Air Control Valve (did not replace them) and still no luck.
The car starts when it's cold and stays on idle with the idle RPMs moving up and down from 800-650 which makes the idle a bit rough. That wasn't happening before. So the car will be on when it's on idle, BUT once I press the gas peddle and then let my foot off the gas peddle the car engine will shake then turn off. I can turn the car back on and keep the gas peddle pressed (reving it) and the car won't turn off, but as soon as I let go of the gas then the car engine shakes a bit and turns off. No check engine light is on. Anyone have an idea of what it could be or what it is?
OF top 99.5% creator (Formerly of the Puffinblunts variety)
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,634
Likes: 109
Rep Power: 210
Re: Car turns on and idles roughly, press get let go then stalls? (2004 Honda Civic G
Do a smoke test for vacuum leaks
Fuel pressure test
Cylinder rpms drop test: first test by disconnecting fuel injectors one at a time and listen for idle to drop..idle should drop.
Do another drop test by lifting spark plug coils one at a time..lift slowly and listen for spark quality..lifting further away from plug should cause idle to drop.
then you pump it into a vacuum hose, probably clog the intake so it won't dump out of there, and watch to see if it comes out anywhere it shouldn't. The brake booster line is an easy hose to pump smoke into, but make sure you pump the brakes with the car on 10 times slowly before you drive it again after taking the brake booster off, just to make sure the boost system is fully functional.
I made one from a paint can (similar to other youtubes):
1) Drill two holes in lid about 4" apart
2) Insert a threaded male 3/8 NPT Quick Connect (pic 1 below) for
air "IN" side into one of the two holes on the top of lid
3) Insert a threaded male 3/8 NPT Barb (pic 2 below) for air "OUT" side of the other hole on the top of the lid
4) Used a C-clip on underside of lid to hold threaded NPT ends in place
5) Applied JB weld to NPT base on both sides of lid (on C-clip also) to prevent leakage and stabilize the NPT barb.
6) Purchased six foot length 3/8" heater hose (corded/stiffer than vacuum hose) to connect from "OUT" barb to brake booster vacuum line.
7) Used a one inch length of 3/8" heater hose inside the can installed over "OUT" barb's thread..a thin cigar's (ex;Tiparillo) inhale end is inserted into the heater hose inside the can
8) Air compressor connected to "IN" NPT pushes air into paint can.
9) With the paint can lid off light/roast cigar prior to connecting the inhale end into one inch "OUT" tubing
10) Install paint can lid, tap with rubber hammer to secure, use about 1 or 2 psi (or enough psi for continuous smoke that won't allow the cigar to go out.)
Note: I tried a clear tubing at first but it melts as the can/NPT "OUT" gets a bit hot from the cigar. Also, I was able to smoke test the entire exhaust from the tailpipe forward with this smoker and it worked really well.
Worked even better on engine's vacuum lines.
Pic 1. NPT Quick Connect
Pic 2. NPT Barb
Last edited by Wankenstein; Jan 1, 2018 at 07:51 AM.
