Yet another confused suspension question
 

OK, I dont want to lower it, its stock, 2006 Civic Sedan.. its eaten three sets of tires and the rear trailing arms or whatever that TSB was all about was supposed to cover it.. (but I apparently missed the boat).

There are dozens of posts about rear suspensions here and I have read a dozen and they are all as clear as mud or turned into mod wars

I would like to know what will give me a means to get the rear end to not eat tires and allow it to be adjusted like a REAL car...

I'd like not to spend a billion dollars nor do I expect to do this for $20.00

I'd like not to have to fly in some engineer from some asian country..

Help?!?!?:hithead:

Re: Yet another confused suspension question
 

#1) Buy quality tires.... that don't have large blocky tread on the edges.
#2) Rotate tires regularly

The improved arms do not eliminate the issue entirely.

It's a fact of life with many front wheel drive cars, and it's just the nature of the beast.

Some negative camber is designed in to the rear suspension, and the tires can still wear choppy even with the improved control arms.

Crappy tires make the problem that much more pronounced.
Certain tread designs are far more prone to chopping the edges. Large, blocky tread on the edges will do it quickly.

Infrequent, irregular tire rotation allows it to happen too, on almost any FWD car.

-------------------

Toe adjusters for the rear are already in place.
Hope they aren't seized up.
I like to adjust a little more toe-in than ideal spec on the rear of these, if ideal spec is 0.16mm then I aim for 0.20-0.24ish.

I have modified a few sets of the original upper control arms to change the rear camber, I did this before the "new and improved updated arms" became available....Solved the wear issues on those few cars, and still holding up several years later. Once it's set, it shouldn't ever need to be moved again IMO so I saw no real need to have rear camber adjusters if the car isn't going to ever be lowered.



IMO this is the cheapest way, and it retains the original bushings so as long as they get installed and neutralized properly, there shouldn't be premature bushing failure like seen on many aftermarket solutions.

Alignment is absolutely necessary after doing anything to the suspension, of course.
Changing the camber causes the toe to change too. A lot.





This post has some clues on how I modified the arms: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ml#post4648427


This one has some thoughts on tire choices: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/198-wheels-tires-brakes/357408-tire-wear-noise-tsb-13-047-tire-suggestion.html#post4651062

Browse the entire threads too, there's some decent thoughts and info to consider.

Re: Yet another confused suspension question
 

Didn't buy cheap tires (my grandson rides in this bucket) and the tires didn't last 30k. When I had the new tires put on, I bought the four wheel alignment and when the dude was doing the alignment, I saw that the right rear wheel was not in spec (red).. and when I asked the guy he basically told me that there was no adjustment.. that irked me.. Here it comes.. I ASSUMED that Honda was a better car than this.. I will check out the links and probably get rid of the car and buy something worth a shit.. I NEVER have had issues like this with any of my cars..

Re: Yet another confused suspension question
 

Now why would you have missed that opportunity? Your fault.



Might I suggest a nice Chrysler product?