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Engine Swap D17A2 out D17A in Hi guys, Im Tom from MI and new to this side! I have a 2002 Civic EX with now 205K miles on it. Since the transmission started to act up a bit I decided to swap a new engine and transmission in. So far it all went well and I got the new one in. It runs but it throws a couple codes. Now here is what I got. I had a D17A2 in it and the new (used 40K miles) engine is a D17A. Well I didnt think much of it, I left the engine harness that came wit the motor on an it plugged into my ECU. One of the codes I get is the P1259 for the Vtec pressure switch. Well funny enough there is no switch on that solenoid nor is there a plug to plug one in. The Harness looks original and not butchered up. Not sure what to do here since I could swap in the solenoid from the A2 motor but I still would not have a connector to hook it up!http://d-series.org/forums/images/smilie/uh.gif I could swap the whole harness but I would like to avoid that! http://www.d-series.org/forums/image...on_biggrin.gif I also get a crank position sensor error (P0335). I didnt look into it yet but could that be connected to the engine difference? Any help would be greatly appreciated! This is my daily driver the sooner I have it back the better. Thanks! Tom |
Re: Engine Swap D17A2 out D17A in is this a JDM engine? If so how does a RHD harness hook up correctly into your car? JDM engines do not have pressure switches nor a crank sensor. You will need to use the pressure switch off your old motor as well as the crank sensor and Engine harness |
Re: Engine Swap D17A2 out D17A in I honestly don't know if it is a JDM engine. It does have a CKP sensor just no Vtec pressure switch. The harness that goes into the ECU is identical between the A2 and the A I have so it plugged right in. But listening what your saying I do actually need to swap out the harness and the Vtec solenoid (and possibly the CKP) in order to get it working correctly. Thanks for your help! Tom |
Re: Engine Swap D17A2 out D17A in Any updates would be nice. I have a 2005 EX that I am in the process of doing a head gasket job on. I broke a spark plug due to what I think is rust as a result of moisture in the cylinder due to coolant being present. If the machine shop tells me that this, or anything else is going to cause a major problem (cost) with the head (as in it will need to be replaced) I was thinking about just getting a JDM to replace the entire motor instead of footing the price of a new head and all the other related costs of doing the gasket job. When you get it working correctly, it would help me to know how much (if anything) more it costs, and what was involved in the process. Thanks in advance. |
Re: Engine Swap D17A2 out D17A in
Originally Posted by Jim_Vanzant
(Post 4653523)
I broke a spark plug due to what I think is rust as a result of moisture in the cylinder due to coolant being present. Thread Galling (link) is from dissimilar metals fusing (galvanic corrosion), maybe from off brand plugs or lack of anti-seize on the threads. Hard to tell. Carbon lock comes from plugs not tightened enough to seal properly. Combustion gases seep up through the threads and past the leaking gasket, and leaves soot deposits in the threads. What brand of plugs were in it? Did the other 3 plugs break loose with little or no effort? Were they tight all the way out? |
Re: Engine Swap D17A2 out D17A in Plugs were Champion. The other three gave me very little problems coming out. |
Re: Engine Swap D17A2 out D17A in
Originally Posted by ezone
(Post 4653530)
maybe from off brand plugs or lack of anti-seize on the threads.
Originally Posted by Jim_Vanzant
(Post 4653552)
Plugs were Champion. The other three gave me very little problems coming out. Plugs look fairly normal ---- with an exception. The one coated in black carbon was loose. #2? The gasket was never flattened, it did not have a good seal against the combustion chamber. Leakage comes up through the threads, leaving carbon deposits in the threads and on top of the plug and on the wire end, and in the sparkplug tube in the head. A loose plug can overheat, and cause preignition ping/knock/detonation. A loose plug can't properly shed its heat through the threaded area into the surrounding head material. I'd be surprised if the plug was not difficult to remove due to threads binding (known as "carbon lock"). Kinda looks like the others weren't fully tightened either, judging by the look of the gaskets. Were they super easy to break loose? Little or no resistance? Felt like you didn't even need the ratchet for the initial pop? |
Re: Engine Swap D17A2 out D17A in The three I was able to get out looked much like the three in this pic. |
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