Rear Upper Control Arm
 

I have a bent rear upper control arm that is giving my wheel a whole lot of camber. I ordered one from the dealer today. I also have a leaking shock that I am also replacing on the same corner. When they are replaced does the car have to have a rear alignment?The control arm does not a place to adjust it.

Re: Rear Upper Control Arm
 

I assume you are purchasing the SET of updated rear upper control arms to improve the rear camber and subsequent tire chop/noise issues that are so common on those 06-09 cars?

Yes, it needs aligned.
Correcting the camber issue will cause a large change in rear toe.

Re: Rear Upper Control Arm
 

No I was only going to change the left one because it is bent. (a truck backed into it with it's trailer hitch and now the wheel has a big camber in at the top). My car is a 2012 and I didn't have any wearing problems with the tires.

Re: Rear Upper Control Arm
 

Ah....It helps immensely to mention your vehicle info and situation in the first post.

In that case be prepared for other damage such as a bent knuckle or bad hub/bearing in addition to the more obvious bent control arm.

The alignment final readings should determine if there is knuckle or other damage not readily visible to the naked eye. Hopefully it will be ok.

It may take several miles before a damaged wheel bearing becomes apparent (airplane loud), so keep it in mind.

Re: Rear Upper Control Arm
 

Ok thanks for your reply. I also have a leaky shock on that corner also. I'll let you know how it turns out. thanks.

Re: Rear Upper Control Arm
 

The control arm is all repaired and the wheel is straight again. I'm getting a inlignment done on Tuesday. That's the fastest I could get it done. A dumb question maybe.... I now have seen how everything I set up on the suspension. How exactly do they do a inlignment on the rear wheels when there are not any adjusting parts. Just for my own knowledge. Thanks.

Re: Rear Upper Control Arm
 

Did you neutralize the bushing(s)? With the cars weight on the wheels (so suspension is at normal ride height), loosen and retighten the one bolt holding the arm to the knuckle, along with any others that were taken apart. This allows the bushing to be in a relaxed or neutral state instead of being forced in a twist for the rest of its life leading to premature failure.

The toe adjusting point is an eccentric with a 15/16" hex (24mm) and a 17mm locknut that makes the rear lower knuckle bushing move in and out. It's on the rear of the LCA.

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