Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

Hell, I really like the scanner app you found.

Check the spare sensor you have, does the wiring match?

Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

Cool scanner/app for sure. Been spot on for CEL codes as well.

Sensor on hand is Denso part# 192400-1160 (09E04) made in Japan. This seems to be the new product code:
Denso part# 234-9005
4-wire: 2 black, 1 green, 1 white. Online search shows primary for 1.7L EX model (mom's car is a Value Package).

I am going to order the one I listed in my previous post. I do have concern as it is made in China. Seems like a lot of NTK sensors are much less expensive now compared to a few years prior...maybe made in China explains it. Probably won't last as long..cheaper metallurgy? Check out second item in this link: http://www.made-in-china.com/product...enCorrection=1

This is listed as the Honda Genuine part for '95 EX: 36531-P1H-E01 Apprx: $250 even on Amazon. My guess is the current one (failed) is not a genuine part, made in China and most likely why this engine has a hunting idle since before I purchased it. In the meantime I will buy the cheapo from Walmart and hopefully find a genuine part in a salvage yard in the future.

Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

Minimum order 100 pieces. WTF are you thinking?

Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

LOL :rofl: Nah mang...just a reference of Alibaba type garbage part. I must have worded it wrong in my previous post. Buying one unit from Walmart for $30. The Walmart part probably is that Alibaba-esque POS part I linked. Sensor arrives at local Walmart in two days.
Here's reviews of the same Walmart part I'm buying listed on Amazon:

Damn.. I was hoping you were going to say it's okay to use the 1.7L one I have on hand..probably an A/F and not an o2. Other than more vibration than usual the engine seems to run better without an o2 sensor. No issue at all with higher revs, acceleration, power-band.

Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

AF was used on 04-05 civic, primary sensor.

01-03 used normal O2 sensors. The only issues to watch for are the resistance of the heater element and wire positions/connector style.


Disabling the sensor causes the ECM to stay in open loop, no fuel trim corrections.

Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

My mom's is an '04 civic vp.

Just pulled failed o2 sensor from my car and it reads: OZA686-EE2.. Looks to be NTK (not stamped on part) but not much info online about it.

I might try heating it up and get voltage readings.

Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

I wouldn't bother.
Scanner showed it to be rather dead.

Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

Okay. I'll let be.
Should I (blue painter's) tape the engine harness o2 connector for next two days to keep out humidity and dirt?

Off topic .. concerning preload adjustment steering rack tension what determines proper tension? How does one know if it's to loose or to tight? The rack made a clunking sound prior to modification and still making clunking sound. Here's a related link: http://www.dreamsofdrifting.com/ae86/rackpreload/

Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

Tape it, sure.

Many racks will clunk normally (sitting still, tires on the ground) as the pinion pushes the rack away and against the preload spring and rub block (or whatever is in there in your case), while sitting still with the wheels on the ground.....but once the car is moving there is much less resistance to turn the tires, so the rack doesn't clunk near as much, though bumps may still cause the noise.

IOW when the effort required to move the tires is greater than the rack preload spring tension, you get a clunk.

Too loose or too tight....Assuming the steering gear is not damaged, too tight (too much preload) should be easy to feel while driving, the steering wheel can't float when you let go of it, and the car will go whatever direction you last put the steering wheel at. Driving a straight line becomes very tedious, instead of effortless corrections with your fingertip to stay straight, it looks like you are drunk driving and every correction requires much effort.

Too loose might mean a whole lot of clunking and some unwanted free play.

Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

Okay.

My car rack's exact situation.

Makes sense.

It's definitely not too tight by your description. However, seems to fall under somewhat loose. Not a lot of clunking..intermittent and loud. I'm going to get it aligned soon and I plan to ask the tech(s) if they will adjust it while on the rack. Thanks for the informative decription.

Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

Opinion please for:
Anti-sieze on o2 sensor threads
Dieletric grease for o2 sensor connection

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Dielectric grease is SILICONE Keep it the hell away from all parts of the sensor!

Doesn't an O2 sensor come with a dab of anti-seize already on the threads?

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Yes Sir. Glad I asked

It's been a couple years since I changed one but, I think you're right.

Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

Have exhaust leak now but not sursurprised. A few days ago when I intstalled the exhaust piece that attaches from bottom of manifold to front of cat...the O gasket(s) at the bottom of manifold side looked shot.

The o2 sensor is located very near cat and not not on manifold like 6th gens. Would an exhaust leak at the location I described effect metered air?
Happen to know gasket part number?

Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

Have exhaust leak now but not surprised . A few days ago when I intstalled the exhaust piece that attaches from bottom of manifold to front of cat...the O flange gasket(s) at the bottom of manifold side looked shot.

The o2 sensor is located very near cat and not not on manifold like 6th gens. Would an exhaust leak at the location I described effect metered air?

Just picked up o2 sensor and nothing is stamped on it to denote manufacturer or part number. However, there is a correct part number sticker on the plastic it's wrapped in and it comes in a typical Denso box that has part number on it. Sensor is assembled in USA.

Don't fail me USA..lol.
Happen to know flange gasket part number?

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I purchased the flange gaskets from your cousin Otto Zone :giggle:

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If it's ahead of the sensor, hell yes. Fix that before replacing the sensor? It's in the parts catalog.

You mean Otter?
https://media.giphy.com/media/G5fcprkrGvBja/giphy.gif

Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

Okay and yes it's before the sensor. Makes me think due to the condition the present gaskets are in that it may have contributed to the intermittent hunting idle this engine has since/before purchasing it. Is it possible that a small leak in one or both flange gaskets may not be audible yet effect o2 sensor readings?

It's definitely audible now.

Classic movie.

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Sure is. BTDT. Leak can suck air in between exhaust pulses.

Even seen a cat code caused by a leak almost a foot AFTER the rear sensor on a Miata.

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Well, hopefully after replacing the flange donut gaskets and new o2 sensor this engine will run even better than before.

On a side note: I probably have the cat's spring bolts too tight and will inspect and back them off too. I mentioned this in a previous reply but haven't loosened them yet. I don't think this is where the leak is coming from because it definitely sounds like the front of the engine. However, after watching exhaust gasket videos I see the purpose of the springs is to allow for flex.

Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

Well, more f'ing delays.Wasn't donut gaskets..the stud nuts came loose via expansion and contraction. Removed exhaust piece to install new gaskets and when tightening down of cours one of the nuts/stud threads stripped even though I brass brushed them and used brake cleaner on studs and nuts. I spoke to a guy at Midas by phone and he said they never reuse old nuts and studs because of the very issues i've encountered. So, now ordering a stud and nut kit. What is the best way to remove the three studs from the bottom of manifold?

Up until now I've always avoided seperating the exhaust from that section. Instead, I would unbolt manifold from cylinder head and at the front of the cat.

I may just throw in the towel on this one and bring it to a local exhaust shop to remove studs, replace studs and install exhaust piece and o2 sensor. Last thing I want to do is strip the threads inside the bottom of manifold while inserting new studs. I don't have a torch and at this point and my nerves are a bit wrecked.

Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

Depends on the needs. If you know 10 different ways to remove a stud.....pick what works best for the situation.
Might be able to do it with vise grips, might be double nut and wrench, might be oxy-acetylene and an extractor.
Might only need one instead of 3. Might need to take it apart to do work. IDK.



I picked up a Bernz-O-Matic propane torch kit at a home improvement store for plumbing work at the house.

Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

Thanks. If I get a decent quote from exhasut shop I'm going that route. Otherwise PB blaster soak and double nut first and heat next.

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Seem to have the exhaust sorted out..although it may loosen up again.

Unfortunately, new o2 sensor didn't solve the issue. Engine still stalling out during ECU relearn. I haven't check live data yet as I'm feeling pretty defeated with this whole situation. I will post or video live data results soon.

On drive home the o2 sensor looks to be outputting proper voltage between 0.1 and 0.9
Under load it feels exceptionally smooth and when a/c is on it doesn't stall but does occasionally drop in rpms.
Is it possible that the new o2 sensor needs more time to communicate with ECU to idle correctly.

I adjusted idle screw and it seems to idle a bit better with the screw fully tightened. I plan on cleaning the idle screw passage as you mentioned previously. Seems like this in itself is an issue and may be related to why the engine has a hunting idle before I purchased it. I posted a couple months ago about idle issues and that the blade appears to sag towards the bottom of the TB which causes sticking and high revs. I used a small amount of synthetic grease on the blade circumference, bottom of TB and blade mounting hole (throttle pulley side). Being that the blade allows more air in at the top than the bottom at idle would this account for erractic/hunting idle?

Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

Post o2 sensor install live data. Next time I'll film it with dimmer back lighting:

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Sensor still stuck at 0 at idle? Does it still have exhaust leaks?
Or is it really lean at idle?


I couldn't hear the car in this video and it doesn't look like the phone screen. Are we watching a recording here, on a laptop? Is there a way to view all of the data at once?

Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

Recorded data from drive home yesterday on my phone..upload to youtube. I wish I could get the app to work on my laptop but it doesn't. No way to show entire data at once but can scroll down on phone to show more. I can select from several parameters to datalog from if you want to tell me which ones are needed.

I'll record again to check if stuck at 0 during idle..but, seems to be the case. What should idle voltage be? I'm very new to live data as I've never owned one before.

As far as exhaust leaks I don't hear any..what would be the best method to check aside from elctronic sniffer? I ended up replacing two of the three studs and pulled the manifold off the car to work on it.

I think (guess) this engine has been lean at idle since purchase though it smells of gas due to the lack of evap system. Spark plugs look slightly white-ish and dry but not crusty.

Re: Oil Pressure Light On
 

O2 sensor should be constantly fluctuating somewhere between 0 and 1 volt.


New question: If you hold RPM at .....steady 2500, what does the fuel trim # do?
Smoke?

Same smoke check for vacuum leaks from the intake area

Capped so the engine has no vacuum leaks?

Grab a can of carb/throttle spray.
Disconnect battery, disconnect O2 sensor.
Reconnect battery, start engine, let it run til its warm.
Spritz cleaner into throttle body, see if RPM picks up and engine runs smoother.

What's the chance this engine is trying to run on the injectors from a 1.5 engine instead of this 2.0?

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I will report back later today. Wife and I are going to local beach for a while.

When I got off work today and started the car 02 volts read 0.47 for a couple seconds then dropped off. During drive at idle it would drop to zero often. Possibility of harness or ECU issue?

Seller just told me B series 240cc injectors.

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Doubt it.