Fuel Injector/Fuel Rail Question
 

Just installed new o-rings on my injectors, they were tight going into the fuel rail, so tight, that they ripped (2 out of 4). What can I do to lubricate them to get them into the rail without ripping.

Second. My honda CRX manual shows fuel rail nuts torqued to 108#. I sheared my bolts at just over 20, is that a misprint?

Thanks

Re: Fuel Injector/Fuel Rail Question
 

oem fuel rail or aftermarket?

I'm assuming this is a misprint and your manual is probably not a Helms.Get rid of the chilton's and buy a Helms,you'll never have wrong info again.The fuel rail bolts need to be decently snug but not extremely tight.

I suggest a light oil on the O-rings and place them in the injector ports of the manifold first,make sure they are facing the right way and then gently place the fuel rail over them.Once you do tat use even pressure of the fuel rail nuts to slowly slide everything into place(do a few turns on one of the nuts then go to the otherside for a few turns,back and forth like that.Go slow and give the O-rings time to compress to fit the hole you are shoving them in.

Re: Fuel Injector/Fuel Rail Question
 

I put a little 5w20 oil on the out side the o ring

Re: Fuel Injector/Fuel Rail Question
 

Quit feeding the troll. I already answered this yesterday 11 minutes after it was posted in the other forum.

Re: Fuel Injector/Fuel Rail Question
 

The fuel injectors are a very tight fit. Getting the old ones out is like pulling teeth! If you know how to get the air cleaner off, I'd say you could really do this job without any instructions. The retaining clips are a PITA because there's no way they can go back on first. You can't create enough pressure on the fuel rail to seat the injectors with or without snapping the ends off as you're doing it. I remember being surprised you can find a set for < $50.00!

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.civ...f1a27a0180.jpg

There aren't a lot of extra parts needed; most people could probably reuse the retaining clips if you don't drop them into the engine. A multimeter set to 200 ohms might help you diagnose a bad (new) one before it gets started, but I can't see any point in just replacing one fuel injector if that's the cause of the problem. It looked like most places sold 4 at a time. And trying to put 100 ft lbs on a 10 mm bolt is asking for it, btw...