Keep blowing my 4 GA Fuse?
 

Here is my setup.


Battery->4GA Wire->1F Cap->Power Dis Block->2 8Ga Wires->2 Kenwood KAC-7202->2 AudioBahn 400RMS (each)

BTW, the 2 8GA wires also have fuses, but they are not blowing.

I just got these new amps yesterday, installed em, and after I turn up the sound I will blow the fuse on the 4GA

Gain = 50%
Sub Power on Receiver = 30%
Volume I turn it up to = 40%

Then the fuse pops, it was a 60A, replaced it again, popped, replaced with a 100A, popped, I have one more 100A fuse left. What am I doing wrong?

I do not have the Big 3 done yet *I recently ripped it out when dropping the engine with plans to redo it*. I do plan on doing that again, but anyone know what the problem could be?

I do get a good amount of bass as I turn up the volume, but I know these subs/amps are capable of more, I THINK its because the amps are trying to pull to much power?

Well for starters, one thing you are doing wrong is one of the most foolish things you can do - replace a fuse with a higher rated fuse just because it keeps blowing. Eventially, you'll find a fuse that won't blow even though there is a power surge/spike and because the protection(fuse) doesn't work when its too high rated, you'll start a nice little warm cozy fire in your Civic. That being said, you've got to find out why the fuse is blowing. Check your power leads and you grounds and make sure they are good.

I had talked to someone and they told me I could either go with 80A or 100A but no higher, and I found some so i bought 2, if I get the problem solved i will probably go back to 60 or 80 anyway.

check your power wire... is there any contact of it underneath the engine bay or nearby firewall?

i was in the same situation and i figured out my power wire was aside my tranny case which gets really heated and melted thru the wire.

My wire is all good to go, nothing wrong it, ripped it out and checked. Well I checked my fuses, my 100A fuse didn't blow this time, but my amps one did. My ones on my 8GA didn't argh. So after I replaced the 40A on the amps tomm from work (Best Buy) and get a 80A for my Power line, gonna try it agian. I still CAN NOT figure out what is going wrong, any help would be appreciated.

what are the fuse ratings on your amps....add them up and thats your main fuse value. then do the same for each 8ga going to each amp

heres and example

sub amp - 2 30amp fuses (60)
4 channel - 2 20 amps fuses (40)

so the main power wire needs a 100A fuse, the 8ga for the sub amp needs a 60, the 4 channel 8ga needs a 40 amp.

Yeah I did, i need 80 for my 4ga, and 40 for both 8ga, there are inline fuses on the 8GA, and bus on the 4ga, so I will by everything right for tomm, I just need to find out why it blew 2 of my 60a, and then blew my amp fuses, I check my grounds, they are all good. I grounded my batt with 4Ga today, *just preparing when I get my system back together*

If the fuse in your amp popped you have a short in the amp or the subs are wired to to low of an impedance. Try hooking power back up and leaving the subs unhooked. Also how big is the fuse on the side of the amp? Is it 80 or what?

40A on both amps

do not do that, itll only hurt ur system or even worst, fry it.
sounds to me that you have grounding problem. find another grounding points, like the seat belt bolt and make sure it not on paint.

If you already checked your grounds and your power wire, I would start eliminating things such as your cap and your distribution block and see if the fuse still blows. Also what dbdijon said is a good idea as well to unhook the subs and see if you're stilll blowing fuses. But don't replace fuses with a higher rating.. you can easily start a fire and cause injury to yourself and/or others.. if you're in doubt, ask before you do something like that.

OK, I replaced the ground wire running from the CAP to the frame, found a new grounding spot, made sure i sanded off the paint, regrounded the amps in the same spot. Now I am blowing the amp fuse, ALS:KJD:AKJ it is a 40A I blew, and its a pain in the ass to get those * i can get them from my install shop my they will only give me so many lol*

Have you tried it without your subs hooked up? I'm guessing you have them wired to 1 ohm or something like that and your amp can't handle the load.

I have them wired in series, to 8 ohm *each*

figure out how many amps total is needed per amp and that is the fuse you should have on your power lead form thr battery to the dirtobution block or cap. then from there you have fuses on the amps etc. So far it sounds like 100amp is what your needing but you have something worng such as a bad ground or unknow grounding point that keeps blowing your fuses.

There is a 40a on each amp, so I should need a 80A fuse, but I couldn't find one *at the time* so I am using a 60A. But I still managed to blow my amp fuse, and what gets me is, the 8Ga I have running from the block to the amp has a 40A inline on it, that didn't blow, grr. All the connection on the amp are ok, and it only happened after i turned it up so loud *about 50% of its power*

possibility that your drawing to much current you have not listed your amps . so list the amps , their fuses and I think we have an idea of your wiring setup.

Kenwood does not have it on their site yet or i would link it.
KAC-7202

920 WATTS MAXIMUM POWER OUTPUT

460 Watts RMS at 4 Ohm x 1

2 Channel Power Output

MOSFET Power Supply

Torroidal Noise Suppression Filter

Copper EE Core Power Transformer

Dual Secondary Capacitors

Ground Isolation Input Circuit

Detachable Aluminum Dress Plate & Top Panel Control

Die-Cast Aluminum Heat Sink

Cast Aluminum Sandblast Finish Heat Sink

Variable (50-200 Hz) 18 dB / Octave Low-Pass Crossover

Switchable (150 Hz) 12 dB / Octave High-Pass Crossover

Switchable 12 dB Bass Boost at 90 Hz

Preamp Outputs

High and Low Level Inputs

2 Ohms Stereo / 4 Ohms Mono Stable

Red Triangle Power Indicator

Screw-Type Power and Speaker Terminals

Single-Side Terminal Placement for Cleaner Installation and Improved Wire Management

My Subs:



AW1251SE
12” NATURAL SOUND WOOFER
45 oz. Strontium Magnet
Power Handling: 400 watts R.M.S.
Frequency Response: 24Hz - 1kHz
Efficiency: 92.1 dB
PHAT Foam Surround
Non- Pressed, Non-Transfer Paper Cone
KM3’ Coated for Virtually No Cone Distortion
2” 4-Layer ASV Voice Coil
Dual 4 Ohm
2 Ohm or 8 Ohm Operation
Mounting Dimensions: Depth; 5 1/4”
Hole; 10 7/8” Diameter; 12 1/2”
Mult-Connect Lug Lock Terminals



My Setup:
2 AW1251SE in a bandpass box.
Each connected to its own KAC-7202

I have 4ga running from battery to a capacitor, then from the cap to a power dis block.
From the block 2 8Ga run to each amp with its own inline 40A fuse, the amps also have a 40A fuse *just 1*.

I have each sub bridged on its own amp.

I think I am going to get rid of the distribution block. Rather then running my 4GA to my dis block, send it to the amp, and add another 4ga wire to the cap and run it to the 2nd amp.

ok so according at most you should have an 80amp fuse with the posibility of a 100amp fuse. now as far as blowing the fuse each time I think you may need to check yoru power wire fmor the battery all the way back because it sounds like its grounding out or maybe even that your new amps may be defective. I see this happen once before where the fuse kept blowing with a kenwood amp no matter what fuse we threw at it. Turned out after many calls to tech support that it was a amp board problem.

I did check the power wire, I thought of the possiblity of grounding out, but its only when i turn it so high, if I had a bad ground it would blow automatically wouldn't it?

so this narrows it down to possibly pulling to much current at once when they are turned up the gain not being adjusted correctly or possible defective amps.

someone mentioned unhook ur subs. what theyre talkin about is that its possible that youre under-driving ur subs and cause it to blow.

I think you should first unhook your subs, play it loud and see if you blow the fuses like some of us have been telling you to do.