Re: Should I let my car warm up?
Originally Posted by sdaidoji
(Post 4734142)
I have a downhill right after leaving driveway. I just turn it on and drive. naturally, not mashing throttle until it gets more heat some say they idle for 5 -10 minutes, but that is really not going to heat engine - rich mixture. |
Re: Am I the only one who constantly has an engine light?
Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER
(Post 4734143)
It’s not causing any problem, so why waste money fixing it? What would the advantage be? My dad drove his car for a few years with tape over the CEL light. I don't even know if he ever had the codes read. I ended up selling that car (1999 Lexus) after he passed five years ago. I wouldn't be surprised if it's still running. |
Re: Is this header decent? For $70 I wouldn't expect much in quality. Ever consider going back to stock manifold since header isn't providing power gains anyway? |
Re: Should I let my car warm up? sounds right. |
Re: Is this header decent? O2 sensor location is only for one cylinder. they don't show where the 4 tubes merge - that's apart of what defines a good header or not. find one in a scrap yard - they easy to pull off, aside from frozen bolts (take PB blast with you) car-part.com |
Re: Am I the only one who constantly has an engine light?
Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER
(Post 4734143)
It’s not causing any problem, so why waste money fixing it? What would the advantage be? PS: I have the seat belt SRS lightning up, but a previous SRS was actually the Siemens Computer controlling the SRS, so i was completely on my own if something happened. |
Re: Am I the only one who constantly has an engine light?
Originally Posted by sdaidoji
(Post 4734152)
when a new (more dangerous code) comes up, you will know instantly. PS: I have the seat belt SRS lightning up, but a previous SRS was actually the Siemens Computer controlling the SRS, so i was completely on my own if something happened. |
Re: Is this header decent?
Originally Posted by sdaidoji
(Post 4734151)
O2 sensor location is only for one cylinder. |
Re: Should I let my car warm up?
Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER
(Post 4734125)
What I’ve always done in the winter is tape off the upper grill to help the engine warm up quicker, Worst point: a blocked off radiator can easily lead to overheating, even in the winter. Thermostat: What is it good for? :_doh: then drive off gently without using the heater until the engine fully warms up, then drive as normal. Is that the right thing to do? To generate HEAT, the engine has to BURN FUEL. The more fuel it burns, the more heat it makes. If you make it work while burning that fuel, you increase efficiency first by actually going places while it's warming up instead of sitting still just burning (wasting) that fuel, and second by shortening the time needed to reach operating temperature (and most efficient operation). I usually just slap my car in gear and start driving just as soon as it's running. (OTOH my old truck has a carb with no choke, I can't just jump in and drive, I HAVE to run it a little while before it will stay running on its own at all) I can let the engine idle until it warms up, but I believe that I would be doing more harm than good running then engine while it’s cold for more time than required. It's nowhere near fully warmed up in that time either, but there's at least a little heat pumping out the heater vents by that time. I don't worry about my oil. The oil I use is good enough (Hondas full syn 0w20, same as what goes in most customer cars at the shop) Hell my daily commute is short enough (5.6 miles each way) my engine never reaches full operating temp for weeks at a time in the winter....... unless I go out of town or something. I still don't worry about oil dilution or engine wear. I change oil in my Civic maybe once per year, I've been driving just about 5k or so per year. I also frequently pressure wash....... the underside of the car and the engine compartment to remove salt Wait....Y'all use salt down there? If I guess right...I'm probably about 300-350 miles north of you and we've only been getting about one good snow per year anymore. But.....Our road crews salt the roads here as soon as temps dip in to the mid 30s...and we have that damn brine stuff here too. That crap seems way more corrosive than plain salt. |
Re: Am I the only one who constantly has an engine light? Am I the only one who constantly has an engine light? I'm not worried, my car runs just fine. LOL |
Re: Am I the only one who constantly has an engine light?
Originally Posted by ezone
(Post 4734172)
Yep, you are. I'm not worried, my car runs just fine. LOL |
Re: Am I the only one who constantly has an engine light?
Originally Posted by Megalodong
(Post 4734146)
Your car..do want you want. My dad drove his car for a few years with tape over the CEL light. I don't even know if he ever had the codes read. I ended up selling that car (1999 Lexus) after he passed five years ago. I wouldn't be surprised if it's still running. |
Re: Am I the only one who constantly has an engine light?
Originally Posted by sdaidoji
(Post 4734152)
when a new (more dangerous code) comes up, you will know instantly. PS: I have the seat belt SRS lightning up, but a previous SRS was actually the Siemens Computer controlling the SRS, so i was completely on my own if something happened. |
Re: Am I the only one who constantly has an engine light? you answered one of them yourself :) misfires comes to mind too. |
Re: Am I the only one who constantly has an engine light?
Originally Posted by sdaidoji
(Post 4734190)
you answered one of them yourself :) misfires comes to mind too. |
Re: Am I the only one who constantly has an engine light? OK scangauge does help, i have mine too but do prefer to have it off :) |
What are my camshaft options? I have a 2005 Civic with a D17A2 engine. I am looking to upgrade my camshaft to get more power. I have heard of someone using a camshaft from another VTEC engine, I think a D series, but maybe a SOHC F series in the D17 and making more power. I can’t remember for the life of me which cam they used, I think maybe a D16Y8 or Z6 cam? Really not sure. I am wondering what camshaft upgrade options I have besides Crower. Thanks! |
Camshaft regrind? I am wondering of I could have the camshaft for my D17A2 reground to the specs of a Crower Stage 1 so I could get the same performance benefit of upgrading to a Crower camshaft for a much lower cost. Would that be possible? Thanks. |
Re: Camshaft regrind? The more you grind it away the less there is to open the valves. Then you need to get higher ratio rocker arms to gain back the lift.. Good luck finding high ratio rocker arms for less than just buying the correctly ground Crowley cam.. |
Re: What are my camshaft options? Crower is it. It’s a D17 not a K series, won’t be many options for stuff. Another D series can might work, idk. There was a company that would do custom grinds (would even do ones for none vtec engines) but I can’t remember the name of the company. If they are even still in business. It had a frog as a logo I think... Found it; https://www.gude.com/Products/camlist.php#honda I looked into it before and I think he regrinds an OEM one and it was the cost of a new one but if you have an Lx that’s your only option besides a head swap. |
F swap? I want to do a unique engine swap in my 2005 Civic. I thought about doing a B or H swap, but I can't because in the USA, the engine has to be the same year as the car to be legal. I think that a F22 swap with an engine from a S2000 would be cool, but I can think of several reasons why it wouldn't be practical. Not the least of which is that the S2000 is obviously RWD, so I'm not sure how I would get power to the front wheels. Has this been done before? I know that other people have done F2K swaps in Civics, but I couldn't find anyone who did this in a 7th gen, so any input would be appreciated. Thanks. |
Re: F swap? According to everything I've ever read about EPA and federal emissions regulations, "technically" an engine (repower) is not supposed to be older than the car it's installed in. You can chop out the floor all you want to install a rear wheel drive powertrain. Google V8 Civic LOL |
Re: F swap? Google Civette I believe was its name. Don’t think an F swap has been done in a 7th gen, B series yes and of course K. Can you fabricate things? Weld? Custom wire harness and possibly drive shafts? It would be unique, go for it. Same year engine or newer. |
Re: F swap? They can get more power from K. S2k are notorious for not getting additional power easily. It was already highly tuned. Most modifications actually decreased torque power. And what are you talking about moving power delivery from back to front?!? Read more about engine swaps... mating engine to transmissions is part of the process... |
Re: F swap? Ah, there's the cibaru too. |
Re: Stage 1 cam?
Originally Posted by sdaidoji
(Post 4733958)
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/7...ge-1-cams.html it would be noticed, yes. estimates are with I/H/E to get about 35HP - the most these engines coukd get. note: due to Photobucket policy change, a lot of pictures were lost in the link |
Re: Stage 1 cam? I see you did not read the link.... there are dino charts in there, you know... |
Re: Stage 1 cam?
Originally Posted by sdaidoji
(Post 4734316)
I see you did not read the link.... there are dino charts in there, you know... |
Re: Stage 1 cam? I'll make it easy for you. Here's a direct link to the post with the dynos https://www.civicforums.com/forums/7...ml#post4596256 Just to give you a frame of reference for OEM dynos: D17A2 AT makes ~90whp D17A2 MT makes ~110whp D17A2 is rated at 127BHP (horsepower at the crankshaft, disregarding losses at the transmission or wheels) Don't ask me for a source on those. Just numbers I've seen from being on this forum for... 14+ years Numbers posted if you don't wanna see the dyno charts (in posted order): AT with intake (unsure of transmission): 116.9whp MT with I/H/E (elevation of 6500'): 118.68whp MT with I/H/E: 124.5whp MT with laundry list of mods: 128.11whp Laundry list of mods BTW: probably most reliable numbers because of whose car it is -AEM cam gear -Crower Stage 1 with chromoly retainers -Black nitride coated intake/exhaust valves -power steering delete -AEM V2 intake -DC sports 4-1 header -RS*R exmag exhaust -lightweight underdrive pulleys -8.8lb flywheel (stock is something like 17lb) -Stage 2 clutch -Carbon lined synchros -Quaife LSD -OMNI power master cylinder |
any specific instructions for when installing Stage 1 camshaft? I just ordered a Crower Stage 1 camshaft, P/N 63461 for my D17A2. I have a couple questions. I know how to install it, but I have never replaced a camshaft with a new one before, so I have a couple questions. 1. What procedure do I follow after I lube and install the camshaft to break it in? I presume I just vary the RPMs frequently, don’t run it hard and check/adjust the valve lash after it breaks in, but I’m not sure. 2. I am due for an oil change. Do I change the oil and filter before or after I break in the cam? 3. Will the performance benefits of the camshaft be immediate, or will the ECU need to adjust? Thanks in advance for the help, and sorry for the stupid questions, I just want to make sure I don’t screw something up. |
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