What to look for when buying a used car?
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I'd have to say no...
I'm guessing the ITR suspension includes brakes as well? Unless they just took the shocks/springs which means they had to change the rear LCA's.
I'd say no because no one drops in a 98 DX motor unless they had something much better in their before and just pulled it out and slapped in any motor they could find for a quick sale.
92-95 Civic's are the hardest cars to look for... all of them have new paint jobs now and aside from paint quality, there is also the repair quality. There's a problem with rusting on the rear quarter panel/wheel well so when there's a new paint job the rear was most likely fixed and you have to see how good of a job was done because if it was a quick fix, the rust will come back within a few months and that new paint job is garbage again.
This car has obviously been played with before. I'd rather get a fully stock car with a strong stock motor and no body work done before... rust or not, at least when you fix it, you know it will be done right.
Sorry, I was just helping a friend find his car this past weekend, so i've seen some real crap haha.
Other things to look for:
- Bent rebars
- Bent Rad support
- Aftermarket fenders, headlights, hood (poor fitment, no honda stickers, cheaper material)
- Repainted panels, bumpers (overspray, orange peeling, uneven paint finish)
- If it's an AS-IS sale be sure to bring it to a shop so they can check brakes, ball joints, cv joints, control arms, etc.
- ECU! Can't stress this enough, sometimes people take the CEL bulb out from the guage cluster. Only pinning the ECU will show the condition of the motor.
There's so much more to watch out for, but alot of the time you can get a vibe from the seller. One car we went to see wouldn't start and the owner said... Oh sorry guys, it was working this morning... if I knew it wasn't starting, I wouldnt have gotten you to come all the way out here.
I asked him if the car was driven daily and how it was... he said it was good and yes, he drove it this morning and every day prior. When I inspected the brakes, the fronts were SO shot and in no condition to drive... they were so coroded and there was no chance that the car was driven in the morning at all.
As well, the car was an american car... many times written off cars come in from the states and are fixed and no one will know. Also, sometimes people don't fully transfer the car to be driveable in Ontario and were just driving it anyways.
So just be careful!
I'm guessing the ITR suspension includes brakes as well? Unless they just took the shocks/springs which means they had to change the rear LCA's.
I'd say no because no one drops in a 98 DX motor unless they had something much better in their before and just pulled it out and slapped in any motor they could find for a quick sale.
92-95 Civic's are the hardest cars to look for... all of them have new paint jobs now and aside from paint quality, there is also the repair quality. There's a problem with rusting on the rear quarter panel/wheel well so when there's a new paint job the rear was most likely fixed and you have to see how good of a job was done because if it was a quick fix, the rust will come back within a few months and that new paint job is garbage again.
This car has obviously been played with before. I'd rather get a fully stock car with a strong stock motor and no body work done before... rust or not, at least when you fix it, you know it will be done right.
Sorry, I was just helping a friend find his car this past weekend, so i've seen some real crap haha.
Other things to look for:
- Bent rebars
- Bent Rad support
- Aftermarket fenders, headlights, hood (poor fitment, no honda stickers, cheaper material)
- Repainted panels, bumpers (overspray, orange peeling, uneven paint finish)
- If it's an AS-IS sale be sure to bring it to a shop so they can check brakes, ball joints, cv joints, control arms, etc.
- ECU! Can't stress this enough, sometimes people take the CEL bulb out from the guage cluster. Only pinning the ECU will show the condition of the motor.
There's so much more to watch out for, but alot of the time you can get a vibe from the seller. One car we went to see wouldn't start and the owner said... Oh sorry guys, it was working this morning... if I knew it wasn't starting, I wouldnt have gotten you to come all the way out here.
I asked him if the car was driven daily and how it was... he said it was good and yes, he drove it this morning and every day prior. When I inspected the brakes, the fronts were SO shot and in no condition to drive... they were so coroded and there was no chance that the car was driven in the morning at all.
As well, the car was an american car... many times written off cars come in from the states and are fixed and no one will know. Also, sometimes people don't fully transfer the car to be driveable in Ontario and were just driving it anyways.
So just be careful!
Last edited by EGviNNY; May 30, 2003 at 10:05 AM.
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From: Markham
Rep Power: 0 Well its my boss so we do performance swaps, so I guess he might had a spare DX motor and use that instead.. don't know. He was saying how he might drop in a GSR before selling, but than I'm really interested in this so i said hold on.
Alright thanks, what would I be looking for the ECU? Doesnt the CEL come on when putting keys into ignition (like a diagnose feature...?), so overall I would be looking at overspray, and bent rad support and rebar(what this?), and body parts. Who do you recommend to take the car to for a check, there was little rear rust but its been fixed along with the paint job, its only the rear suspension that is from the ITR
Alright thanks, what would I be looking for the ECU? Doesnt the CEL come on when putting keys into ignition (like a diagnose feature...?), so overall I would be looking at overspray, and bent rad support and rebar(what this?), and body parts. Who do you recommend to take the car to for a check, there was little rear rust but its been fixed along with the paint job, its only the rear suspension that is from the ITR
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From: Scarb/Markham/Barrie, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 0 i'm looking for the same model car azimuthx. so far, no luck. i'm not really concerned about the motor. becuase i'm thinking of doing a swap. so now i'm looking for a decent looking exterior and interior quality.... engine will come later for me. or the other way around. i'm still looking for either H22 or GSR motor.... but i have not a clue what i'm doing. ppl are telling me different things about swapping
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From: , Other, ZEBRA
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my co-worker has a 92 hatch (oddly, he has a sun roof) with a dropped in type r motor he imported from japan (sorry , dont' know jack about motors or anything). lowerered with a body kit and gsr leather seats.
interested?
from what i see, it's a pretty good car. rather new paint job
my co-worker has a 92 hatch (oddly, he has a sun roof) with a dropped in type r motor he imported from japan (sorry , dont' know jack about motors or anything). lowerered with a body kit and gsr leather seats.
interested?
from what i see, it's a pretty good car. rather new paint job
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From: Markham
Rep Power: 0 The point is I don't need a powerful motor, thats why I told my boss I would not be interested if he put a B16A (CTR) or a B18C5 (GSR) because I want to spend as little as possible. Its a 1998 DX Motor D16Y7 with 60,000 KM, perfect because hopefully it would last until graduation of university or close to. I'm advised to check ball joints, (how?), struct towers (from the engine bay?) because bottoming out is bad and it leaves bumps, timing belt done at swap, and chewed up trannies. Any else, I'm sooo interested in this car, still gotta persuade my dad.
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From: , Other, ZEBRA
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by AzimuthX
The point is I don't need a powerful motor, thats why I told my boss I would not be interested if he put a B16A (CTR) or a B18C5 (GSR) because I want to spend as little as possible. Its a 1998 DX Motor D16Y7 with 60,000 KM, perfect because hopefully it would last until graduation of university or close to. I'm advised to check ball joints, (how?), struct towers (from the engine bay?) because bottoming out is bad and it leaves bumps, timing belt done at swap, and chewed up trannies. Any else, I'm sooo interested in this car, still gotta persuade my dad.
The point is I don't need a powerful motor, thats why I told my boss I would not be interested if he put a B16A (CTR) or a B18C5 (GSR) because I want to spend as little as possible. Its a 1998 DX Motor D16Y7 with 60,000 KM, perfect because hopefully it would last until graduation of university or close to. I'm advised to check ball joints, (how?), struct towers (from the engine bay?) because bottoming out is bad and it leaves bumps, timing belt done at swap, and chewed up trannies. Any else, I'm sooo interested in this car, still gotta persuade my dad.
If all fails, u can look at my co worker's car. He's selling.
Btw. how much is your boss selling to u
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From: Toronto
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by AzimuthX
The point is I don't need a powerful motor, thats why I told my boss I would not be interested if he put a B16A (CTR) or a B18C5 (GSR) because I want to spend as little as possible. Its a 1998 DX Motor D16Y7 with 60,000 KM, perfect because hopefully it would last until graduation of university or close to. I'm advised to check ball joints, (how?), struct towers (from the engine bay?) because bottoming out is bad and it leaves bumps, timing belt done at swap, and chewed up trannies. Any else, I'm sooo interested in this car, still gotta persuade my dad.
The point is I don't need a powerful motor, thats why I told my boss I would not be interested if he put a B16A (CTR) or a B18C5 (GSR) because I want to spend as little as possible. Its a 1998 DX Motor D16Y7 with 60,000 KM, perfect because hopefully it would last until graduation of university or close to. I'm advised to check ball joints, (how?), struct towers (from the engine bay?) because bottoming out is bad and it leaves bumps, timing belt done at swap, and chewed up trannies. Any else, I'm sooo interested in this car, still gotta persuade my dad.
up-up-down-down-left-right-left-right-b-a-b-a-start
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that is correct.
The b18c5 is an ITR motor while the b18c1 is the GSR motor.
As for the rebar... it's a short form for Reinforcement bar. This is the bar that sits horizontal right behind your front and rear bumper.
The b18c5 is an ITR motor while the b18c1 is the GSR motor.
As for the rebar... it's a short form for Reinforcement bar. This is the bar that sits horizontal right behind your front and rear bumper.
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Rep Power: 0 Actually... c5 and c5 codes only pertain to USDM engines, JDM motors will be stamped B18C, whether it's from a ITR or a SiR (USDM GSR).
As well, B16A's are not from CTR's but from SiRII's and USDM Si/SiR's. The CTR comes with a B16B motor, pushing 185 hp and not 160 like the B16A.
I suggested pinning the ECU because sometimes shady people/shops will remove the actual bulb from the cluster so even though the CEL is on, you won't relize it until it's too late. And i'm sure this is important to you since you want this motor to last for a while longer. A spare motor is just that, who knows how long it was sitting on the floor of a garage or the side of someone's house haha... and usually if someone swaps out a motor, they kill their stock motors or run them to the ground before doing the swap... giving them a reason to do one. Just be careful
As well, B16A's are not from CTR's but from SiRII's and USDM Si/SiR's. The CTR comes with a B16B motor, pushing 185 hp and not 160 like the B16A.
I suggested pinning the ECU because sometimes shady people/shops will remove the actual bulb from the cluster so even though the CEL is on, you won't relize it until it's too late. And i'm sure this is important to you since you want this motor to last for a while longer. A spare motor is just that, who knows how long it was sitting on the floor of a garage or the side of someone's house haha... and usually if someone swaps out a motor, they kill their stock motors or run them to the ground before doing the swap... giving them a reason to do one. Just be careful
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From: M.Dot, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by EGviNNY
Actually... c5 and c5 codes only pertain to USDM engines, JDM motors will be stamped B18C, whether it's from a ITR or a SiR (USDM GSR).
As well, B16A's are not from CTR's but from SiRII's and USDM Si/SiR's. The CTR comes with a B16B motor, pushing 185 hp and not 160 like the B16A.
l
Actually... c5 and c5 codes only pertain to USDM engines, JDM motors will be stamped B18C, whether it's from a ITR or a SiR (USDM GSR).
As well, B16A's are not from CTR's but from SiRII's and USDM Si/SiR's. The CTR comes with a B16B motor, pushing 185 hp and not 160 like the B16A.
l
i wish i understood half the stuff u guys talk about here Thread Starter
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From: Markham
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by R2FRESH
i wish i understood half the stuff u guys talk about here
i wish i understood half the stuff u guys talk about here B18C5 = USDM Motor
GSR - Integra GSR
CTR - Civic Type R
ITR - Integra Type R
SiR - Sport Injected Racing
My mistake oops, anyone seen a B18C in a celica?
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From: Richmond Hill, Ontario
Rep Power: 0 A ZC motor is a motor that was available in JDM CR-X's. The lowest model had a SOHC ZC, a DOCH was available, and then the imfamous 1st gen B16A on the EF8 CR-X SiR.
Alot of people choose this motor for the 88-91 EF Civic's because the motor drops right in with very little modification, the stock D series tranny bolts right up, and if you slap a 89 Integra ECU on it, the motor boots
Alot of people choose this motor for the 88-91 EF Civic's because the motor drops right in with very little modification, the stock D series tranny bolts right up, and if you slap a 89 Integra ECU on it, the motor boots
Originally posted by AzimuthX
B18C = JDM Motor
B18C5 = USDM Motor
GSR - Integra GSR
CTR - Civic Type R
ITR - Integra Type R
SiR - Sport Injected Racing
My mistake oops, anyone seen a B18C in a celica?
B18C = JDM Motor
B18C5 = USDM Motor
GSR - Integra GSR
CTR - Civic Type R
ITR - Integra Type R
SiR - Sport Injected Racing
My mistake oops, anyone seen a B18C in a celica?
hahahahaha
why would anyone do that?
thats alot of custom work!
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