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What would this take? I kinda have a rough idea of what I need to do, but I don't know the details. I mean, raise the car. Put it on jack stands. Support the motor. Support the tranny. Take off the wheels and axles? Take out the tranny. Then you have access to the flywheel and clutch? Anyone know? Anyone have the Helm's manual? Want to scan some pages and post them? Please!!!

 
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yeah please, cuz i wanna pay grey to do mine

 
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now that i think of it, there was an article in the HT mag a while ago. it featured the JMO torque converter for the 01+ civic. im pretty sure it was like a DIY for the mechanically prepared. im 90% sure of this. had pics and everything. i think you had to drop the sub frame,.....eh. ill look for that issue.

 
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Hehe, how many times did you replace yours already? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]
Wait, what did you replace it with? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]

 
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Oh yeah, here it is... Tech Procedure: EM Civic Torque Converter
I forgot about it. I have that issue too.
More though, more details!!!

 
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it hasnt been replaced. i havent driven that car since september. lol. but this is the second time the tranny has failed. im just waiting to go back to work before i fix it. or my tax refund, which ever comes first. i hate being laid off.

 
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Hey Grey,

I replaced my clutch and flywheel with the A.C.T.. I have the 12 pound flywheel and the stage 3 pressure plate. I did mine when I rebuilt the motor so I had the motor out of the car. There is 5 main bolts going through the tranny to the block. Then there is 2 more a little smaller down by the oil pan then there is 2 little 10 milometer bolts holding the flywheel dirt sheild on. The hard part is getting off the 12 point 13 milometer bolts holding the pressure plate on and then when the clutch is off the six 12 point 17 milometer bolts. MAKE SURE NOT TO BRAKE THE HEAD OFF THE BOLTS. Then make sure they are torqued to specs. If you have any questions grey, just ask me and I will help as best as possible. Oh, and before you take the axles out, be sure to drain the tranny fluid. There is an easy way to get the axels off once the tires are off. Take off the main nut holding them on in the hub. Then take the three nuts holding the strut to the car under the hood and you will be able to slide the axels out.


Later, Phil

 
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I just got my Helm service manual plus the supplement for Christmas. The main manual is over 2" thick and the pages are really thin! Good stuff.. covers just about everything. About scanning pages, I dont have a scanner. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/IMG] If I did I'd glady do em up for everyone.. ack. But you pretty much have the jist of the removal, except they use a special tool to support the engine from up top. The tool is nothing more than a support that connects to the shock towers and front of the engine bay that has a hook to hold the engine up. I'm sure a good jack would also do the same thing from the bottom.

 
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Barney: How do you like that stage 3 pressure plate? That's the "MaXX Xtreme Pressure Plate", right? I was thinking of getting the stage 2, or the "Xtreme Pressure Plate". What about the flywheel? You chose the heavier one. I think I want the heavier one as well, but I'm not sure. Why did you go with the heavier one? I assume you chose an ACT disc as well? Which one did you choose and why? One of their Street discs or one of their Xtreme discs?

Do you happen to know the torque specs of those bolts? When you say "12 point" do you mean they're star shaped, otherwise known as "Torx" bolts? Also, how do you drain the tranny fluid? Do I have to pump it out or is the drain plug gravity fed? Also, about the axles... Do I have to take both of them out, or just the passenger side one? Also, when I'm taking the strut off. Do you mean that when I do that I can just move the whole strut and hub out of the way for the axle to come out?

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Sorry for all the questions, but I need some pointers. Thanks for replying to this thread!

flotsamm: They have a tool that you can use? That's awesome! Do you happen to have the part number? Where does it attach on the engine? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]

 
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I am still on my firts hahhaha .....knock on wood[IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG][IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG]

 
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I'm thinking about ordering the ACT clutch and fly wheel soon... I'm pushing 40, 000 miles and my clutch is probably pretty burnt up.. I might as well replace the fly wheel too.. The prolite flyhweel weighs 8 lbs and is part number 600115 and the streetlite is 11.9 lbs and part number 600120. The streetlite would be better for a daily driver, and the prolite would be better for strictly drag racing. If you get too light a flywheel, you'll loose momentum every time you shift and you have a harder time getting back up into the higher rpm's. Im gunna get the streetlite flywheel. As for the clutch, they say the 4 and 6 puck clutches arent recommend for street use due to harsh engagements. I think I'm gunna get the Heavy duty street clutch with the organic disc part number HC5-HDSS. I think together both of these parts will be good for my car, giving my quicker revs, better throttle response, and quicker shifting with no clutch slipping. They say this ACT clutch is good for 223 ft-lbs of torque which is more than what I'll ever be running. go to www.optauto.com and look through the transmission section for other clutches or flywheels that may fit our car. They have good prices and reliable service. I am defintly not going to do this mod myself, gunna take it to a pro shop, any idea how much labor that would cost? This is a good topic, lets keep it rolling!

 
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Grey,

I like the stage 3 pressure plate. It is tuff as hell, but I can chirp the tires in 5th gear like I did in second when the car was stock. I have the ACT street disc. I have the 12 pound flywheel so I wont loose rev driving on the street.

When I say 12 point I mean 12 point not torx. Regular bolts are 6 point meaning six sides.

To drain the tranny fluid there is a drain plug underneathe toward the back.

You have to remove both axels. Yes, you move the strut and hub out of the way to get the axels out.

No problem man. Anytime I can help.

Pressure plate: 19 ft. lbs.
Flywheel: 87 ft. lbs.
Dirt sheild: 72 ft. lbs. (yes, for real)
Main tranny bolts: 47 ft. lbs.
2 smaller bolts on back of tranny: 47 ft. lbs.

EDIT: When you do it and need help, call me at: 321-403-7833

Phil

 
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Here's what it says on how to remove the tranny without pics since I dont have a scanner. Its 28 steps:

Special Tools Required:
-Engine hanger support bar 07AAK-S5AA000
-Engine hanger, A and REDS AART 1256*
-Subframe adapter, EQS-0ZACVCO*
*Available through he Honda Tool and Equipment Program, 888-424-6857

(I dont think you really need the above special tool, all it does is hold the engine up as your removing the tranny. You could do the same thing with a floor jack or even a cherry picker if you have one. Same goes for the subframe adapter, not really needed it seems)

1. Write down radio channels and disconnect the (-) battery cable and then the (+) cable. Remove battery.
2. Remove the intake air duct.
3. Remove the air cleaner housing.
4. Disconnect the tranny ground cable then remove the clutch line bracket.
5. Carefully remove the slave cylinder so as not to bend the clutch line. Do not operate the clutch pedal once the slave cylinder has been removed.
6. Disconnect the starter motor cables.
7. Disconnect the back-up light switch connector.
8. Remove the starter motor.
9. Remove the cable bracket, then disconnect the cables from the top of the tranny housing. Carefully remove both cables and the bracket together so as not to bend the cables.(these are the cables for the shift linkage)
10. Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor.
11. Lif and support the engine an hanger and special tool.
12. Remove the two upper tranny mounting bolts.
13. Remove the tranny mount bracket and tranny mounting bolt.(shows a picture of a tranny mount)
14. Remove the front engine mount bracket bolt.
15. Remove the front engine mount.
16. Raise the vehicle and make sure it is securely supported.
17. Drain tranny fluid with a shop towel covering the front and rear beams to catch any spilled fuild.
18. Remove the splash shield.
19. Remove exhasut pipe A.
20. Remove the driveshafts.
21. Remove the three bolts securing the tranny rear mount.
22. Remove the tranny rear mount abd tge tranny rear mount bracket.
23. Support the front suspension subframe with the subframe adapter and a tranny jack.
24. Make reference marks on the front suspension subframe and mounting bolts then remove the front suspension subframe.
25. Remove the engine stiffner and clutch cover.
26. Place the tranny jack under the tranny, and remove the three lower tranny mounting bolts.
27. Pulll the tranny away from the engine until the tranny mainshaft clears the clutch pressure plate, then lower tranny on the tranny jack.
28. Remove the boot, the release fork, and the release bearing from the tranny.

Now there are 20 pics interlaced between the steps above.. looks fairly easy though. Hope this helps.