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Overview: The smaller of the two brake fluid containers is in the way of the strut bar. So, in this DIY, we will relocate the container so that it is a few centimeters lower and out of the way of the bar.

Total time: 10~15 minutes (I was entirely clueless on this, so this time includes finding all the parts and looking for relocation places)

Tools:
Torque Wrench - 10mm and 14mm

Note:
The disk that my camera saved these pics to ended up being bad. So I'm missing several pics in between...

Instructions:
- Find the two containers that hold the brake fluid in the top right (nearest the driver seat) of your engine bay. The one we will be moving is the smaller one on the bottom.


- The container is held in place by a metal arm which is bolted to the frame of the car. From inside the bay, you can see the bolt. From the wheel well you can see what appears to be a square nut. However, this is part of the frame and does not come off. The following to pictures show the 10mm bolt from the inside and the well.


The bolt is in the center of the picture. (Between the metal peice and the black peice).


The nut is the square behind the spring and in the middle of the two other holes.

- Remove the bolt that holds the brake fuild container in place. Keep the container upright and stand it somewhere inside the bay. Be sure not to yank the tubing off. Put the bolt away somewhere where you will not lose it.

** You have two options from here **
1) Drill a hole to remount your brake fuild
-or-
2) Double mount it with the peice that hold the Power Steering tube.
Drilling a hole provides the most stable mount and is obviously the better of the two choices. However, I do not have a drill and it would be hard to get a drill in position to drill such a hole without removing the wheel and spring. Well, that's unless you have a monster extension or one of those womenly drills that change shape. So far, my double mounted parts have held in place tightly and I don't think it'll be a problem.


- Look directly beneath the area where the brake fluid was mounted and you will see a metal arm that extends up and forward to hold the power steering hose. The hose should connect to the red covered container in the bottom right of the engine bay. (Sorry no pics, my camera ate these) To double mount the brake fluid container, unscrew the bolt that holds the arm on. This bolt is also 10mm. Now, just put the brake container ontop of the arm so that the bolt holes are lined up and screw them back in with the bolt you just took off. The brake fluid container will not sit flat against the arm because of a little metal tab on it's side. Screw it in tight so it will not come loose in the future. The pictures below are the finished product.


This is not a very clear picture, but it is after the double mount.


The two brake fluid containers should look like this after your done.


Installing the generic Strut Tower Bar:
This is the easy part.
- Unscrew the 3 nuts on top of the struts on either side of your engine bay. They are 14mm's and rather hard to get off. I had to use my entire body weight to loosen them, but one they are loose, it's easy. Doing one side at a time may be easier. I do not know if they are different sizes, so I just kept track of which bolt went where.


That's with the bolts removed.

Now, just place the strut bar on and bolt it back in.



- Do the same thing with the other side. You will probably have to adjust the bar so that the holes line up with the bolts. After you get it on, bolt it back together. Now tighten any screws on the strut bar.

- Tighten all the bolts that you just took off. I suggest you get them as tight as you can. Neuspeed recommends 33lb/ft.

You're done!

Here's pics of my finished product (Sorry about the glare):



Good luck with your mods and PM me if you have any questions!

~RyzRocket02


Thanks to stlblues for the torque on those bolts!

 
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Great DIY buddie!!!!!
Was thinking of doing one for the brake fluid ....but doing it with the installation of the strut bar...yeahhh good idea!!!


Eric

 
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Nice DIY man, thanks ..........

 
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great diy ....good job !!

 
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The torque numbers for the strut/strut bar bolts according to Neuspeed are 33lb/ft.

 
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I think you are the only member I know of on this board who still has their stock Air Intake System.

 
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i got a stock intake too..
i just dont see myself paying $100 for something thats going to decrease my low rpm power and give me an overall 1 hp gain..

 
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hahaha word,,,stock air box over here too,,,100-200$ for some bright blue or red platsic,,nahh im allright

 
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haven't you guys seen the dyno sheets from AEM? I noticed an increase in performance...

lower power...not interested. I'm building a highway machine [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

it's all about keeping the revs high, and using the top end power. i love it!

 
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AEM Dyno sheets... Yup, a whole 9ish peak horsepower gain (Wasn't that on a integra too)? Wow, not to mention that AEM's don't actually get anywhere near that. I'll be impressed if you can pick up 5hp off a CAI on the 7th gens. So, let's see... 180+shipping for an AEM CAI. Or I can pay 3 times for uhhh over 20 times the power with a nitrous shooter. Either way, I'm not much of a top speeder. Anyone can drive a car fast. I play autocross. I need the power on the low end. And, because I do autocross, I'd rather spend the $200 on suspension parts than an intake that will rob me on the low end. But really, it's just preference. I need my low end and quick responce. Anyways, I hope you guys liked my DIY!

 
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I still have the stock intake, I don't like the sound the aftermarket ones make when you step on the gas, plus I don't think it makes a very big difference in power anyway.