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Take a look at part number 11... "ROD, SUB-FRAME PERFORMANCE" is this a factory performance part? anyone have any info on this?

FRONT SUB FRAME

 
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looks like a sway bar to me

 
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No, that's not a sway bar. It looks like something else. Maybe that comes with the performance package that Honda came out with? Interesting... Looks like it only mounts with one bolt though. That couldn't be a strut bar, could it? From the illustration is looks like it's in the spot of a strut bar. It's only available for the 2002 model year, 'cause if you select 2001 it doesn't show that. Check it: FRONT SUB FRAME Look at that though. There's a 10 and an 11. The 11 is entitled "ROD, SUB-FRAME PERFORMANCE", but the 10 isn't listed. Check out the bend in 11. It looks like it's designed to clear an aftermarket intake.

 
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It's a front lower tie bar...basiclly makes the crossection a little more sturdy

 
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its "Front and Rear Stabilizer Bars". goto www.cars.com and look up features. it says 02s have it but 01s dont. i know the front one is right below the tie rod cause i remember seeing it while doing my springs..

 
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Are you 100% sure about that? That makes sense that it only uses one bolt. The front sub frame is kinda low too, so it makes sense that that category would include all other parts which are that low. I have a 2001, and for only $29.63 I wouldn't mind a front tie bar. Maybe I should be the guinea pig? I wonder if I'll need the bolts as well? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]

 
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yup I'm 100% sure...It's just a hollow Painted steel rod..

 
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No no, "stabilizer bars" are otherwise called sway bars or anti-roll bars. I know that for a fact. They're talking about the sway bars.

Found something...

It's about the Civic Hybrid, but I think this is the part we're talking about. I tried looking for the spot where it would mount, but I can't seem to find it. I would have to take a look at the 2002 Civic personally to compare it with mine.

 
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Do all 2k2 Civics have it or just ones with the FP package? My car is in the shop so I can't look to see if I have one right now.

 
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I'm not sure? It would be great it someone could find out. It would be even greater if someone could snap a few pics of it. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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front lower tie bar/rod.

RSX's got it too. a bit different, but placement is at the same location.

hmm. we dont have one.. grr. heh.

I'm not sure if its a direct bolt on, we may have to drill holes to fit it?

another thing, the RSX's got a rear lower tie bar or some sort... not even sure where it is, but it looks interesting too.

RSX part

check out number 5.

and another thing, I checked and the DX doesn't have it. HX, LX and EX has it though. Its not a FP package deal, since it comes with the HX, LX, and EX.

I wonder why there's two different part though. 10, and 11. I was thinking 10 is for the sedan? But probably not. Couldn't check too, front subframe isn't listed if I choose sedan. weird.

I posted about this before.. I mean, I was wondering if the RSX one would work... I never realized the 2002 had one though. hmp.

 
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Yeah, I noticed that little RSX dealie too. I might end up getting both and installing them. That is if I can figure out where the hell they go.

 
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see the #5 in the rsx would be a lower rear tie bar cause its short.
i know they added a sway bar on the lx but not the dx but those dont really look like sway bars.
but ya like i said, theres this one bar, under the tie rod. it only has like one bolt on each side of the car. this is on my 02. check and see if its on the 01. i would take pics but i dont have a digicam. its probably that but what it is, i have no idea...

 
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the #5 for the rsx doesn't seem like where it usually goes for a lower rear tie bar... you know how the rear LCA look right? well it should bolt on the other way then... not that way...

I know for sure the 01s dont have it, I haven't seen anything like htat before.

I was considering getting them but I have no idea where to bolt them onto. heh.

 
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#5

 
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BTW, I bought that part and the two bolts. Hopefully I can make it fit. If not, then it'll be a waste of money. Oh well, nobody put up any pics. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/IMG]

 
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here's a pic taken from a 2002 EX coupe. this is the only bar I could find. it looks more like part #10 (doesn't have the dip), and I see 3 bolts connecting it to the chassis? odd. i don't see this bar listed anywhere else on that site, so this must be the rod you're talking about.



edit: this is directly below the tie rod

 
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Yeah, that's it. Exactly. I wonder why yours doesn't have the dip? I checked out a 2002 sedan's bar thingie and it was straight too. Too bad that I only bought two of those bolts. Oh well, I'm sure I can find the same size at a hardware store. I still don't know whether I even have holes there or not? We'll see when I get the bar thingie... I'll make a DIY for all the 2001 civics too. "DIY: 2002 Civic Suspension Upgrade" - COMING SOON [IMG]i/expressions/demon.gif[/IMG]

 
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Interesting.

 
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Update: I got the bar. First test fit shows good results. You only need two bolts! The other two come from this other part that's already attached. Just unscrew that and bolt on the bar. There is no second hole though. I will have to drill one out, but then I won't have anything to screw in to. I think I may have to buy this one tool that's capable of making threads in blind holes. It caps them with this little rivet that threaded and that clamps itself down onto the sheet metal. I could just drill a hole and bolt that bolt in like a bastard, but I want to do a good job. I need the tool for other things as well, so it won't be a terrible waste of money. Looks like this project is on hold until I can get that tool. When I do I'll write up a DIY and what not; stay tuned...

Edit: Got a picture for you...

 
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I installed the torsion bar (I guess that's what you'de call it); however, I didn't drill the hole for the second screw yet. I just installed it onto the existing screw. It's hard as all hell to gain access to drill that hole. You can either disassemble some of the things above the hole in the engine bay (time consuming), you can use a very long drill bit to drill out the hole from above (need to buy one if you don't have one), or you can use some kind of drill extention that allows you to keep the drill horizontal and the drill bit vertical. I just don't want to spend too much money on this project. I may just drill out a larger hole with the long drill bit that I do have and buy two screws that would fit in the hole after threading it. That's another thing, threading the hole... I guess I should check the thickness of that sheet metal to see if threading is even possible. It should be, but you never know. Just babbling about the possibilities.

After installation the car feels more solid up front. The groaning noises I used to hear when going over bumps are gone. I can feel that the front of the car is more solid. I can't tell what kind of benefits this has to handling though? Maybe when going faster through turns the wheels wil stay planted?

 
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One other revelation. Much less wheel hop! Actually, none that I can notice. It's awesome. Definately worth the money.

 
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I wonder if it's worth it for us EX owners to do this upgrade...

 
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I'm not sure? Do you have a 2002 EX? You'de have that torsion bar. Although yours is straight. I can't imagine a bent bar being more rigid, although maybe mine is a thicker diameter too? I'll compare it next time I see my friend's 2002 Sedan.

 
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Grey so you only installed the "torsion bar" with only the two bolts? Does it feel secure? Did you use the bolts that you bought or just the existing bolts that were on there already? Also do you have any pics of it?

Thanks for any help you can give a fellow 2k1'er

Joseph H.

 
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Ditto. Do you think the bar will work with just the one bolt for a "permanent" install?

 
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Yeah, so far it's attached using only the two stock bolts. I didn't have to replace them or anything since they were in good shape. The ones I bought are exactly the same as the two stock ones. It seems secure, but you never know. I think I noticed a tiny gap that appeared betwean the frame and the torsion bar. It seems like it flexed a certain way when it was under compression and it stayed like that. It's only maybe 0.5mm though. I am concerned about it though, so I bought some Grade 8 nuts and I have a tap for them. I'll drill a hole, tap it, and screw in two other bolts. I have washers for them as well since that hole seems kinda big. I wonder how thick the metal is there? Shouldn't matter much as long as it's at least 1/16th inch thick. That'll be enough to tap.

First my ride, I just waxed it not too long ago...


Now, driver's side torsion bar attachment point...


Finally, passenger's side torsion bar attachment point...

 
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Thanks for the quick pictures, how long of a time did this install take you to do, and how hard are the bolts and the sub piece to get to?

Thanks again,
Joe H.

EDIT: Just got off the phone with Valley Honda and asked the guy about the part #10 & 11. He said that part #10 is what comes on the car stock from the factory, and if anythign goes wrong with that part they replace it with #11. He guessed that it was somethign like the oil filter, you know the stock from the factory one is smaller than the one they put on after the first oil change....that is what the parts guy said from honda....take it for what it is worth!!

 
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Not too long. The best way to do it is to jack the car up in front. Then put jack stands under the support points. Lower the car onto the jack stands and then take off the front wheels. Now you'll have full access to the areas you need from both sides. Now just unbolt the stock bolts from both sides. Figure out which way the bar goes and thread it through from behind the wheel wells. Then simply bolt it into place and you're done.

That's just bolting it into place with two bolts though. What I'm planning to do soon, maybe today, is to drill out a hole and tap it and screw in a bolt and washer from both sides. Then it should be all set. The tough part is getting to that hole. You either need a very long drill bit, or a very small drill. An air tool would work, but I don't happen to have one like that. That's making me think, maybe I can borrow one... Anyway, my original plan was to access it from the top by dismantling some of the things up top. The tough part with that operation is that there are steel lines running on top of the bolts when looking under the hood, so I'm not sure if I would have the access I need even after unbolting some of the things that are in the way.

That's interesting what you found out about those parts though. Hmm...

 
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Okay, finally done. Took me a while. It's a pain when you don't have the proper tools.

Check out the thing I used for drilling. Too bad that the drill bit didn't have a hexagonal fitting. I had to actually grind it down and file it down to fit in the elbow joint drill thingie. Not a very good job either since it was wobbling when it spun. I ended up doing only the passenger side using this method. I bet if you had the appropriate bit it would be a lot easier.


I had a mirror shoved inside the engine bay so that I could see what I was doing. This shows the hole developing. Oh yes, I first drilled a pilot hole. I had a hexagonal fit drill bit for this job. It was easy drilling baby. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] Then I drilled the larger hole. The metal is a little less than an eighth of an inch thick.


Um... You need light. Even if it's light outside.


Here's the tap. I used one I had lying around. I also bought bolts for exactly this tap. Might as well since the bolt size doesn't have to be exact. Simply turn and press down. I also oiled mine to help it in and what not.


Bling bling! Driver's side is finished.


Passenger's side too! I changed out the old bolts with the new ones I bought too. Might as well.


Notes:
1. I couldn't do the driver's side with the angled drill bit thingie because the stupid drill bit was so cheap that it wouldn't cut anymore. Instead I took out a bunch of things to get access to the hole from the top. Then it was a quick press of the trigger and my titanium drill bit did a quick job of the metal.
2. I took off the bar after drilling the holes and cleaned all of the surfaces to remove the metal shavings and the oil I used to lubricate the tap while cutting. Clean mating surfaces are good! [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
3. I used some touch up paint to paint the bare metal after the drilling. I just want it to not rust up on me. I actually put a dab on the threads of the bolt that I was going to put in that hole. I figure that it will help to seal that bare metal nicely. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
4. Do not overtorque the bolts with the newly tapped holes. They do not need to be torqued down that much and you don't want to tear up the newly made threads. The forces at play here work in a certain direction, not to force the bolt up and out; rather, to make it bend out.