my springs knocking?
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my springs knocking?
I had my lowering springs put back on, now when I got it aligned they said my spring is binding on the top of the spring housing. went to place that installed my springs and they said it takes a few days for the springs to set right. Is that true or Bs?
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yeah but I had those spring on until last week when I switched to coilovers but the ride was so bad I put my old eibachs back on. It never did that before, until now. Whats the thread
The Standard One
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its most likely an installation issue. probably cause everything isn't greased properly...
try searching for posts by 'y2k2ciVic' in the suspension forum... information is all scattered..
try searching for posts by 'y2k2ciVic' in the suspension forum... information is all scattered..
i think it has to do with the control arm, i went back and too my spring off, put it into a bench press (c clamp) and held it still and twisted it, (like it was turning) no popping noise( my shop said it was the spring twisting) but i think it has to do with when the control arm, when i took it off i lost alot of grease on my left side, might be why, my right dont pop just that side, i going to pull it back off and see if putting more grease on will fix it, i seriously think thats the problem because our springs dont twist, their completely seperate from the three top mount bolts. What i am saying it our steering is completely independent from the suspension, when we turn our spring doesnt twist, strust assembly turns but the spring stays in the same place so when we turn it shoudlnt "pop" because the spring isnt moving, only the control arm and strut is, i will try this this weekend if i have time, ill let you know how it works out, i mean theres nothing else it can be, everything lines up and i took my rim off and turned it by hand and from the control arm is where it pops, you can feel it "pop" in the steering wheel and hear it, it's terrible, or i figured maybe the strut assym is "off" just a little bit from where the control arm used to sit therefore putting a little strain on it when it turn a certain way. Tony[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]
by the way you live in tallahassee, my cousin is going to fsu she left this weekend, if i go up there or if you go to panama city well have to get up, hell we both live fl maybe we can figure out whats wrong
The problem you are having is the same one I had when I first put my springs on.
y2k - "What i am saying it our steering is completely independent from the suspension, when we turn our spring doesnt twist, strust assembly turns but the spring stays in the same place so when we turn it shoudlnt "pop" because the spring isnt moving,"
This is true y2k, but only if you have the spring properly aligned. The spring has to be aligned so that when you turn the wheel it isn't the thing turning. There is obviously a catch at the bottom that the spring automatically falls into. The problem is whith the top where it is not so obvious. You can see a portion of the top plate where it gets thinner. The end of the top of the spring has to be placed just before the narrow part, but not to far over so that the plate doesn't lay flat. Now when you look at the strut assembly she should be able to visualize turning the wheel one way and the bottom catch holding the spring in place and when you turn the wheel the other way the top plate should hold it in place.
y2k - "What i am saying it our steering is completely independent from the suspension, when we turn our spring doesnt twist, strust assembly turns but the spring stays in the same place so when we turn it shoudlnt "pop" because the spring isnt moving,"
This is true y2k, but only if you have the spring properly aligned. The spring has to be aligned so that when you turn the wheel it isn't the thing turning. There is obviously a catch at the bottom that the spring automatically falls into. The problem is whith the top where it is not so obvious. You can see a portion of the top plate where it gets thinner. The end of the top of the spring has to be placed just before the narrow part, but not to far over so that the plate doesn't lay flat. Now when you look at the strut assembly she should be able to visualize turning the wheel one way and the bottom catch holding the spring in place and when you turn the wheel the other way the top plate should hold it in place.
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Yah I dont think It has anything to do with the springs either, Mine are making a really loud popping and I can feel it as well in the steering wheel. One day I got pissed of And smooshed tons and tons of heavy duty grease all over the place. I mean I had the stuff caked in everwhere, it didnt make any sort of difference at all! So, I decided I have to live with it BUT I am gonna check into the control arm thing as well...Oh yah I also jacked the car up and grabbed the spring(not the strut just the spring still in the strut) with my hand and gave it a big twist. it moved frelly without noise. so It cant be the springs makeing noise. Anyways it still drives me crazy to no end. I hope somebody figures this thing out once and for all...
Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: VNlilMAN
it might not make the noise with the car jacked up cause the spring doesnt has as much load as when the car is flat on the floor...[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: VNlilMAN
it might not make the noise with the car jacked up cause the spring doesnt has as much load as when the car is flat on the floor...[hr]
No NO it isnt the springs, i am telling you guys it is the control arm, when you drop it back on the floor it puts the strain back on that arm. Not the spring, the spring has a co-axil joint, i talked to honda this week and he said the spring wont bind, even under exteeme pressure, he said more than likely the perch that the control arm isnt in exactly like it was before install, he says if the it twisted in the wront direction just a fraction of an inch it creates a back force on the control arm, he said make sure when you used the tie rod seperator that you didnt puncture the boot that covers it, if you do the grease will dry out or get dirt and dust, he recommends me taking my drivers side off and lubing it back up, he is an friend so i sort of trust what he says, i will try it this weekend when i am installing my neons and let you know how it went. BTW ANYONE know what grease that is, just any grease will work??[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]
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Its just hard for me to believe that all that noise is coming from the control arm. I tried to find out what grease it was as well, I couldnt get an answer. well I hop eit is, because that way I would have to take it all apart and realign and crap...Perhaps its a combanation of the two, the control arm and the spring..
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im haveing the same problem but on the passenger side and ppl keep telling me it's the coil over but i do think it's the control arm... and it sucks cuzz i hate that poping noise i was thinking of greaseing the arm again...so if u guys find out how to fix that would kick ***
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Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: y2k2ciVic
No NO it isnt the springs, i am telling you guys it is the control arm, when you drop it back on the floor it puts the strain back on that arm. Not the spring, the spring has a co-axil joint, i talked to honda this week and he said the spring wont bind, even under exteeme pressure, he said more than likely the perch that the control arm isnt in exactly like it was before install, he says if the it twisted in the wront direction just a fraction of an inch it creates a back force on the control arm, he said make sure when you used the tie rod seperator that you didnt puncture the boot that covers it, if you do the grease will dry out or get dirt and dust, he recommends me taking my drivers side off and lubing it back up, he is an friend so i sort of trust what he says, i will try it this weekend when i am installing my neons and let you know how it went. BTW ANYONE know what grease that is, just any grease will work??[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG][hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: y2k2ciVic
No NO it isnt the springs, i am telling you guys it is the control arm, when you drop it back on the floor it puts the strain back on that arm. Not the spring, the spring has a co-axil joint, i talked to honda this week and he said the spring wont bind, even under exteeme pressure, he said more than likely the perch that the control arm isnt in exactly like it was before install, he says if the it twisted in the wront direction just a fraction of an inch it creates a back force on the control arm, he said make sure when you used the tie rod seperator that you didnt puncture the boot that covers it, if you do the grease will dry out or get dirt and dust, he recommends me taking my drivers side off and lubing it back up, he is an friend so i sort of trust what he says, i will try it this weekend when i am installing my neons and let you know how it went. BTW ANYONE know what grease that is, just any grease will work??[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG][hr]
You guys are kinda funny. How is grease going to stop that loud popping noise? Obviously something is installed incorectly. When I did the lowering springs I thought it would be easy, and I had everything back together in about two hours. But then when I pulled it out and turned the wheel and heard all this popping I was like hell no. I didn't give up until I figured it out. I'm telling you turning the top plate of the spring assembly so that it holds the spring in place is the fix.
just my 2 cents
just my 2 cents
The Standard One
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i'm not sure about the grease but i do know that a broke boot is going to give you problems. maybe the grease keeps everything stiff so that the control arm doesnt have play? but ya i dunno i still dont think its that. n i didn't even know the top perch had a different size for each side, i thought it was all the same..
The Standard One
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eh, probably not... i know mine makes a 'click' noise when i step on the brakes sometimes but i highly doubt it would make a big pop when turning just the steering wheel
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Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: Silver2002
You guys are kinda funny. How is grease going to stop that loud popping noise? Obviously something is installed incorectly. When I did the lowering springs I thought it would be easy, and I had everything back together in about two hours. But then when I pulled it out and turned the wheel and heard all this popping I was like hell no. I didn't give up until I figured it out. I'm telling you turning the top plate of the spring assembly so that it holds the spring in place is the fix.
just my 2 cents[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: Silver2002
You guys are kinda funny. How is grease going to stop that loud popping noise? Obviously something is installed incorectly. When I did the lowering springs I thought it would be easy, and I had everything back together in about two hours. But then when I pulled it out and turned the wheel and heard all this popping I was like hell no. I didn't give up until I figured it out. I'm telling you turning the top plate of the spring assembly so that it holds the spring in place is the fix.
just my 2 cents[hr]
I was just talking about the grease to let the other guy know what he needed to put in the boot.
By they way, does anyone know how to get that darn boot off?
had many problems when i got my springs installed...
first problem I had was that the spring were making sounds whenever i drove slow and made some turns. If this is the case, you should make sure that your perches are aligned and that the springs are installed into the perches securely. Jack you car a bit but make sure there is still some load on the spring and try twisting the spring. If the spring moves, its not secure enough and you need to reinstall everything. This eliminated those noises for me. I also ghetto rigged the springs wherein we placed some rubber hoses on the top and bottom coils to ensure a tight fit..no noises at all...no spring movement at all...
After a year, i recently experienced a "thug" sound whenever the car jerks or i go over a speedbump...the springs have a secure fit and i thought that my shocks were blown(bad roads in Manila). I took my car to the dealership and they replaced my shocks
However, the thug sound is still there...The sounds came out after a bunch of typhoons and floods...Should I lube something to make the sound go away? The noise is driving me crazy...any ideas? I dont think its a tie-rod problem since most tie-rod problems can be felt through the steering wheel if you know what i mean...could the flood and the rain be responsible for removing all my lube? Help...
first problem I had was that the spring were making sounds whenever i drove slow and made some turns. If this is the case, you should make sure that your perches are aligned and that the springs are installed into the perches securely. Jack you car a bit but make sure there is still some load on the spring and try twisting the spring. If the spring moves, its not secure enough and you need to reinstall everything. This eliminated those noises for me. I also ghetto rigged the springs wherein we placed some rubber hoses on the top and bottom coils to ensure a tight fit..no noises at all...no spring movement at all...
After a year, i recently experienced a "thug" sound whenever the car jerks or i go over a speedbump...the springs have a secure fit and i thought that my shocks were blown(bad roads in Manila). I took my car to the dealership and they replaced my shocks
However, the thug sound is still there...The sounds came out after a bunch of typhoons and floods...Should I lube something to make the sound go away? The noise is driving me crazy...any ideas? I dont think its a tie-rod problem since most tie-rod problems can be felt through the steering wheel if you know what i mean...could the flood and the rain be responsible for removing all my lube? Help... The Standard One
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i would think the 'thug' is bottoming out but they replaced your shocks so i have no idea. n how in the hell did you get them to replace the shocks even with lowering springs? i doubt the floods would do that tho..
i agree with silver2002 i had this problem with my gc coilovers, and everytime i adjust them i have to make sure that the top plate does not move out of position, because if it does it twists the springs back and forth which makes that popping noise that everyone is talking about. u have to align the top mount with the frame of the car, i dont know how to explain which way it goes but u have to get it seated perferctly or else it will keep doing this. If you dont believe us then have ur car on the ground where u can see the spring and have someone turn the wheel left and right, u will see the spring actually popping because its being twisted back and forth. hope that helps guys.
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Hey Guys, I just got back from taking my front struts apart. I did what you guys suggested and took the springs out and realigned them exactly like how the stock was. I just went by the wear marks from my stock springs. I lubed everything to the **** and put er back together. FIXED! It works like a charm. no more noises. THANK YOU, I can now live in peace. By the way I severly fkd up my tie rod end boots, any body know whats gonna happen when they are gone?[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] Any way thank for all the info! After reading and posting about the neuspeed noise problem its nice to finally have it fixed. sory no pictures[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/IMG] but I do have some advise for guys who plan on doing it. I did it bymeslef with no problem. ok so here is the advice.
1) borrow or buy a tie rod seperater, you might not need one, but when you do, you really do. those little bastards can be a pain in the ***.oh yah if you do use the seperater you will prabably wreck your tie rod end boots.
2) take out the tie rod end FIRST
3) undo the 3 bolts at the top dont take them off. take off all the bolts on the bottom. now the strut will probably be resting on the CV joint at this point. I took my left hand and pushed down on the disc brake part and used my right hand to pull the strut to the right, taking it off the CV joint. then of course you undo the top 3 bolts WHILE you hold onto the strut.
4)This part might suprise some people. I didnt use a spring compressor or a hex key to take apart my strut. I laid the strut down and ...well.. this part is hard to explain. I used the piece from the honda jack kit, you know the one with the loop around it? I stuck that inbetween a couple of the bolts on top of the strut and used that to brace and stop the shock from turning(instead of the alen key)then I cracked the top nut. you can take the top nut off a lot but eventually you will need to reach inside the spring and just hold the shock in place while you take off the top nut. Of course when the nut comes off there is a small pop when the strut comes apart but its nothing seroius.(THIS IS WITH NEUSPEED SPORTS! it might be different with other springs!) and then procedd to align the spring up.
5) To put it back together I just sat on the top of the strut while I put the top nut back on. eventually you have to hold the shock while you tighten the top bolt again. its really easy.
6) now this part can be a reeeel beotch. So Im gonna dispell some advise to make your live easier. put the strur back in, and just slightly put the top 3 bolts on. once again I used my left hand to push down on the discbrake assembly piece(to lower the CV joint) and used my right hand to push the strut back on top of trhe CV joint. Now for the secret. take the disc brake assembly piece and pull the top toward you all the way. so that looking from the back of the car the disc brake looks like this \. now take the bottom of the strut and pull it toward you and match up the bottom hole. It might help to use a screwdriver in one side while you wiggle bolt in from the other. Once the bottom bolt is in just push back on the top part of the disc brake assembly piece and the other bolt hole will fall into place. I hope this helps, its hard to explain. the rest is explanetory.
I dont know if any of this has already been said or not but I hope that it helps somebody!
Good Luck!
Xudus
P.S. If there is anybody in the 604 area that needs there springs done or re-aligned give email me and we can work out a price..[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
1) borrow or buy a tie rod seperater, you might not need one, but when you do, you really do. those little bastards can be a pain in the ***.oh yah if you do use the seperater you will prabably wreck your tie rod end boots.
2) take out the tie rod end FIRST
3) undo the 3 bolts at the top dont take them off. take off all the bolts on the bottom. now the strut will probably be resting on the CV joint at this point. I took my left hand and pushed down on the disc brake part and used my right hand to pull the strut to the right, taking it off the CV joint. then of course you undo the top 3 bolts WHILE you hold onto the strut.
4)This part might suprise some people. I didnt use a spring compressor or a hex key to take apart my strut. I laid the strut down and ...well.. this part is hard to explain. I used the piece from the honda jack kit, you know the one with the loop around it? I stuck that inbetween a couple of the bolts on top of the strut and used that to brace and stop the shock from turning(instead of the alen key)then I cracked the top nut. you can take the top nut off a lot but eventually you will need to reach inside the spring and just hold the shock in place while you take off the top nut. Of course when the nut comes off there is a small pop when the strut comes apart but its nothing seroius.(THIS IS WITH NEUSPEED SPORTS! it might be different with other springs!) and then procedd to align the spring up.
5) To put it back together I just sat on the top of the strut while I put the top nut back on. eventually you have to hold the shock while you tighten the top bolt again. its really easy.
6) now this part can be a reeeel beotch. So Im gonna dispell some advise to make your live easier. put the strur back in, and just slightly put the top 3 bolts on. once again I used my left hand to push down on the discbrake assembly piece(to lower the CV joint) and used my right hand to push the strut back on top of trhe CV joint. Now for the secret. take the disc brake assembly piece and pull the top toward you all the way. so that looking from the back of the car the disc brake looks like this \. now take the bottom of the strut and pull it toward you and match up the bottom hole. It might help to use a screwdriver in one side while you wiggle bolt in from the other. Once the bottom bolt is in just push back on the top part of the disc brake assembly piece and the other bolt hole will fall into place. I hope this helps, its hard to explain. the rest is explanetory.
I dont know if any of this has already been said or not but I hope that it helps somebody!
Good Luck!
Xudus
P.S. If there is anybody in the 604 area that needs there springs done or re-aligned give email me and we can work out a price..[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
omg woohoo xudus you have given me hope, i will try that tonight if i get time, maybe there is hope, ill buy some grease to just in case. I still dont understand how the spring is binding but it is only that side, so i guess i will take it apart and re-align it. Thanks alot guys .. Cross your fingers because i hate that popping sh.it!


