UPDATED!!!!!..."DIY"- Interior door panels w/ Picts
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"DIY"- Interior door panels w/ Picts
I haven't seen many of this DIY on our cars yet although some may have already done it...anyway....here is my lastest..Peace!
1. For those who like our interiors pretty much the way they are (LIKE ME)...but yet wish to add that little personal touch.....well here ya go!
2. My method of doing it may have/be different than others...so if your interested I don't have the time right now to post the TEXT,due to being pretty long in nature...but here are pictures....peace!
3. oh...BTW,the material is white vinyl with matching leather grain apperance...Peace!
I accidentally erased my old pictures during the edit...but just look on the second page for the lastest update or Members rides..peace!
1. For those who like our interiors pretty much the way they are (LIKE ME)...but yet wish to add that little personal touch.....well here ya go!
2. My method of doing it may have/be different than others...so if your interested I don't have the time right now to post the TEXT,due to being pretty long in nature...but here are pictures....peace!
3. oh...BTW,the material is white vinyl with matching leather grain apperance...Peace!
I accidentally erased my old pictures during the edit...but just look on the second page for the lastest update or Members rides..peace!
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From: Baton Rouge, Louisiana, US
Rep Power: 0 If you get a Katzkin (http://www.katzkin.com) leather, that also comes with it.
I have a Silver 02 Ex. I have Katzkin leather black w/ red inserts, and a red Honda logo stitched on the top of the seat. I also have red matching vinyl on the doors. It cost me $995.99 installed. I believe if you buy direct from Katzkin and install yourself the kit runs about $560 or so. I wouldn't recomend installing yourself though. It requires special tools, and skill. if you don't install right, when the sun drys the leather it will twist.
My seats look great I wish I had photos to show yall. People stop me all the time to ask about them.
If only I could change the Honda logo on the steering wheel to red. Anyone know where I can find that?
I have a Silver 02 Ex. I have Katzkin leather black w/ red inserts, and a red Honda logo stitched on the top of the seat. I also have red matching vinyl on the doors. It cost me $995.99 installed. I believe if you buy direct from Katzkin and install yourself the kit runs about $560 or so. I wouldn't recomend installing yourself though. It requires special tools, and skill. if you don't install right, when the sun drys the leather it will twist.
My seats look great I wish I had photos to show yall. People stop me all the time to ask about them.
If only I could change the Honda logo on the steering wheel to red. Anyone know where I can find that?
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[hr]It cost me $995.99 installed. I believe if you buy direct from Katzkin and install yourself the kit runs about $560 or so. I wouldn't recomend installing yourself though. It requires special tools, and skill. if you don't install right, when the sun drys the leather it will twist. [hr]
[hr]It cost me $995.99 installed. I believe if you buy direct from Katzkin and install yourself the kit runs about $560 or so. I wouldn't recomend installing yourself though. It requires special tools, and skill. if you don't install right, when the sun drys the leather it will twist. [hr]
HOLY GOOD LORD!!!!!!!!!!............it cost me $20....and two days time!
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Rep Power: 0 Now since you have a black interior(a color that my car does not have), you do not have to do the whole car. I just would like to know where you bought the vinyl? I have not checked my local fabric store(its not very big). How much material did $20 get you? Thanks man, the Allman.
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Rep Power: 0 Dang....thanks guys...sniff, sniff....well.......it took 2 yards of material...that means 6 feet long....the store will automatically give you the width...mine was 60 inches wide standard roll size...this gave me plenty of material for mess up...which I did BTW..LOL...and some left over to do my shift boot.....Now the material was $5 per yard....and 3M adhesive spray $9 from Lowes....I still don;t have time for the DIY right now but I promise!!!!!!..Peace!...and yeah, this is not a DIY for the WEAK HEARTED!!!!!.... lots of cuttin,srew'n, DIY'n...but the result is an awesome custom look IMHO!!..Peace!
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Rep Power: 0 Allman, this looks tight as all heyull. I'm bought to hit up the Piece Goods Store . . . (that's NC talk; if the rest of you aren't from NC, you most likely won't know what the Piece Goods Store is . . . ) 
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Rep Power: 0 LOL..."Piece Goods"...but your from Maryland right?........did you use to live here..Peace!?? ..and yeah Piece Goods will have it!!..that where I got mine..LOL!
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From: Kokomo, Indiana, US
Rep Power: 0 (white) the door panels, dash, and vertical doorjam pieces are white vinyl actually not as bright in the pic the center concil and back dash is paint but i am thinking of going back to the stock look...kinda thinking of selling my car actually don't know just getting tried of it hehe, want something else but uhhh...yeah take it easy man
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Rep Power: 0 Now Allman, (I mean every bit of this in a jokingly manner) you didnt by chance get this "idea" at the Charlotte meet a month ago. Im sure you did notice my door panels were done in this same fashion, however, in light blue. My material cost me about $6 cause I got it in the left over pile. I had to do four doors, but it still took me a couple days. Whats next Allman, the a/b/c pillars?? It does add a good touch, if I do say so myself. BTW, what glue did you use? I used 3M super 90, and it is holding very good for being 9 months old.
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[hr]Originally posted by: ALLMAN
LOL..."Piece Goods"...but your from Maryland right?........did you use to live here..Peace!?? ..and yeah Piece Goods will have it!!..that where I got mine..LOL![hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: ALLMAN
LOL..."Piece Goods"...but your from Maryland right?........did you use to live here..Peace!?? ..and yeah Piece Goods will have it!!..that where I got mine..LOL![hr]
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Here is a short and sweet version of the DIY:......BTW, Turtle..LOL....really!!!!!.....9 months ago????...well...I will not take any credit for this one then....unless my method is different from yours...
[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]
OK,...where was I........
1. Remove door panel
2. Remove arm rest pad(two screws on the backside)..then push in the clips.
3. NOW...the start of the weak hearted
4. The arm rest is held on by 1 screw and four plastic rivets...why I have no freak'n idea....but the good news about this is they are thick enough to secure a screw back into...so anyway,.....use a small drill bit...HMMM about a 3/16" I think...just make sure the screws you use aren't larger than the place you screw back into and the hole(bit) is smaller than the screw.
5. Now, drill out a hole through the plastic rivet
6. This alone still will not release the arm rest...but what is does do is give you a nice "aligned"hole for the future screw.
7. Use some sort of snip..I use metal shear snips to break loose the plastic rivet head on the backside.
8. Repeat this step on the other three, being careful not to damage the post that you'll be putting the screw into later.
9. Now give a little tug....at each connection location to pull apart the arm rest from the door panel.
10. Shhhhhheeewww....that's done.....now remove the carpet material. Pull slowly to remove as much material as possible, don't damage!!
11. Use paint thinner to remove excess factory glue.....this is critical that you "COMPLETELY" clean the surface
12. Once cleaned..use some steel wool to clean even better as well as roughen the surface somewhat to give a better mechanical adhesion with the glue
13. OK...NOW for the decision on your part!!!!!!!...and maybe "turtle" can shead his light on his proceedure......but when you pulled the factory material off your can see how the OEM condition is with that recessed area the material is stuffed down into....well my thought was that leather or Vinyl WOULD NOT go around those tight radii corners very well an look clean....meaning it would twist and be "rippled"...so as with any upolstry job, you would like to tuck in behind and glue or staple for the best "TIGHT" fit......so I ran some test samples to see if just by stuffing around the perimeter would sastify my liking or not......and I didn't like it.....so the decision to cut around the recessed perimeter was my next option if I was to do this mod to my liking....I must say I turned away many times and even put my door panel back on...(in the begining)...knowing I probably was going to cut my door panel. I've never done a DIY that I couldn't put my car back OEM to sale....so that is your ??????????? and decision.
14. So for the first time, I decided to alter and never get back my ride(OEM), and cut the perimeter panel out!
15. This really makes life so much easier when using the glue and applying your fabric but "IS A BIIIIIIIIAAAAAATCH TO CUT OUT "!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!again not for the weak hearted...but I think that your overall finish product is better due to the corners and tuck behind apperance and not having a edge raveling.....if the corners were not so tight it might be different..but you guys can try either way....and may probably be just as easy...I don't know...??
16. Now cut the perimeter back, being very careful not cutting anything else and keep a very striaght cut( cut from backside).....I used a "VERY" sharp knife...so you guys be very careful....use a lock blade thin blade quality knife.....PLEASE BE CAREFUL...and don't rush you have to apply quite a bit of force, which could cause a severe accident!!!!!!!!!!!!
17. So once completey cut around the recessed perimeter......get your 3M 90 glue adhesiver spray.......and thoroughly cover the area...don't worry about over spray...you'll can clean later as you'll need to anyway with paint thinnner.
18. Smooth out the fabric, ripples to the edges and tuck behind the cut out perimeter.
19. let dry for about 15 minutes
20. trim out center piece where the armrest goes and along the armrest pad
21. LOL....shhhewwww...almost there.......once everything is to your liking and tucked....oh DAMN!!!!...sorry I almost forgot a "VERY important part....when ypu cut out your fabric using the existing as a pattern....leave about 2 inches extra around the perimeter.........so this 2 inches is the tuck behind portion behind your panel.
22. I bet your wondering how the hell to attach your panel back...well I thought and tried many things.....and believe it or not......I use an industrial grade DUCT tape to mend the two back together....it is critical that you buy the "BEST" TAPE...tape that is a woven fabric and the adhesive is so strong that pulling is off your fingers is hard and tugs on the skin.......now when I was a young kid I built everything out of tape......LOL...and not to be funny, but duct tape does wonders as it was develped for war and combat to repair things in the field...and is the BEST product I thought for this application...but "knowing" how to tape the best and restore the strength to the panel....that is why a woven fabric duct tape is a must!!!!!!!!!!!!
23. Pull your extra fabric tight on the backside.......this is where the advange comes over not cuting out period, as well as apperance...but I could be wrong...anyway pull tight and start glueing and taping on the backside......I use 3M adhesive and duct tape all the time in my JOB...to adhere things to concrete....I'm a Structural Forensic Material Civil Engineer......so I would say trust me....those combo's work great to hold things..even in heat
24. Pull tight and tape in sections around the perimeter...no need to tape fully, just enought to keep tight....because the next step,...locks the fabric in place even tighter.
25. Now tape the perimeter....use 3M and tape again, to tape longitudantally along the joint, pulling very tight... extend several layers outward.
26. Now just reinstall the arm rest using screws and the provided holes your drilled out.
27. Clean up the panel and put the door panel back on
28....LOL....LOL...LOL...do the other one now!!!!!!!
29. Good luck!!!!!!!!
30. I must say all the way through the process, I was like, man I've screwed up big time..and I'm a perfectionist as well......and not until the entire thing came together was I pleased.....I can still improve it a little as I might take in back off......one thing that I didn't anticipate was "DAMN AIR BUBBLES"..like window tint...I had to push air bubbles out....so just a little more info from me to you!
31. Also remeber that if you don't like it...you can redo as many times as you want...the hard part is the prep-part...the easy part is the fabric attachement which is the appearance part....so take your time...and if you don't like it just re-do it.....the cost is nothing!
32.....MANNNNNNNNNNNN!!!!!!what a DIY...and I probably missed some things...so sorry....but this really is a quick and dirty for my kinda explinations
PEACE GUYS/GALS[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
Here is a short and sweet version of the DIY:......BTW, Turtle..LOL....really!!!!!.....9 months ago????...well...I will not take any credit for this one then....unless my method is different from yours...
[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]
OK,...where was I........
1. Remove door panel
2. Remove arm rest pad(two screws on the backside)..then push in the clips.
3. NOW...the start of the weak hearted
4. The arm rest is held on by 1 screw and four plastic rivets...why I have no freak'n idea....but the good news about this is they are thick enough to secure a screw back into...so anyway,.....use a small drill bit...HMMM about a 3/16" I think...just make sure the screws you use aren't larger than the place you screw back into and the hole(bit) is smaller than the screw.
5. Now, drill out a hole through the plastic rivet
6. This alone still will not release the arm rest...but what is does do is give you a nice "aligned"hole for the future screw.
7. Use some sort of snip..I use metal shear snips to break loose the plastic rivet head on the backside.
8. Repeat this step on the other three, being careful not to damage the post that you'll be putting the screw into later.
9. Now give a little tug....at each connection location to pull apart the arm rest from the door panel.
10. Shhhhhheeewww....that's done.....now remove the carpet material. Pull slowly to remove as much material as possible, don't damage!!
11. Use paint thinner to remove excess factory glue.....this is critical that you "COMPLETELY" clean the surface
12. Once cleaned..use some steel wool to clean even better as well as roughen the surface somewhat to give a better mechanical adhesion with the glue
13. OK...NOW for the decision on your part!!!!!!!...and maybe "turtle" can shead his light on his proceedure......but when you pulled the factory material off your can see how the OEM condition is with that recessed area the material is stuffed down into....well my thought was that leather or Vinyl WOULD NOT go around those tight radii corners very well an look clean....meaning it would twist and be "rippled"...so as with any upolstry job, you would like to tuck in behind and glue or staple for the best "TIGHT" fit......so I ran some test samples to see if just by stuffing around the perimeter would sastify my liking or not......and I didn't like it.....so the decision to cut around the recessed perimeter was my next option if I was to do this mod to my liking....I must say I turned away many times and even put my door panel back on...(in the begining)...knowing I probably was going to cut my door panel. I've never done a DIY that I couldn't put my car back OEM to sale....so that is your ??????????? and decision.
14. So for the first time, I decided to alter and never get back my ride(OEM), and cut the perimeter panel out!
15. This really makes life so much easier when using the glue and applying your fabric but "IS A BIIIIIIIIAAAAAATCH TO CUT OUT "!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!again not for the weak hearted...but I think that your overall finish product is better due to the corners and tuck behind apperance and not having a edge raveling.....if the corners were not so tight it might be different..but you guys can try either way....and may probably be just as easy...I don't know...??
16. Now cut the perimeter back, being very careful not cutting anything else and keep a very striaght cut( cut from backside).....I used a "VERY" sharp knife...so you guys be very careful....use a lock blade thin blade quality knife.....PLEASE BE CAREFUL...and don't rush you have to apply quite a bit of force, which could cause a severe accident!!!!!!!!!!!!
17. So once completey cut around the recessed perimeter......get your 3M 90 glue adhesiver spray.......and thoroughly cover the area...don't worry about over spray...you'll can clean later as you'll need to anyway with paint thinnner.
18. Smooth out the fabric, ripples to the edges and tuck behind the cut out perimeter.
19. let dry for about 15 minutes
20. trim out center piece where the armrest goes and along the armrest pad
21. LOL....shhhewwww...almost there.......once everything is to your liking and tucked....oh DAMN!!!!...sorry I almost forgot a "VERY important part....when ypu cut out your fabric using the existing as a pattern....leave about 2 inches extra around the perimeter.........so this 2 inches is the tuck behind portion behind your panel.
22. I bet your wondering how the hell to attach your panel back...well I thought and tried many things.....and believe it or not......I use an industrial grade DUCT tape to mend the two back together....it is critical that you buy the "BEST" TAPE...tape that is a woven fabric and the adhesive is so strong that pulling is off your fingers is hard and tugs on the skin.......now when I was a young kid I built everything out of tape......LOL...and not to be funny, but duct tape does wonders as it was develped for war and combat to repair things in the field...and is the BEST product I thought for this application...but "knowing" how to tape the best and restore the strength to the panel....that is why a woven fabric duct tape is a must!!!!!!!!!!!!
23. Pull your extra fabric tight on the backside.......this is where the advange comes over not cuting out period, as well as apperance...but I could be wrong...anyway pull tight and start glueing and taping on the backside......I use 3M adhesive and duct tape all the time in my JOB...to adhere things to concrete....I'm a Structural Forensic Material Civil Engineer......so I would say trust me....those combo's work great to hold things..even in heat
24. Pull tight and tape in sections around the perimeter...no need to tape fully, just enought to keep tight....because the next step,...locks the fabric in place even tighter.
25. Now tape the perimeter....use 3M and tape again, to tape longitudantally along the joint, pulling very tight... extend several layers outward.
26. Now just reinstall the arm rest using screws and the provided holes your drilled out.
27. Clean up the panel and put the door panel back on
28....LOL....LOL...LOL...do the other one now!!!!!!!
29. Good luck!!!!!!!!
30. I must say all the way through the process, I was like, man I've screwed up big time..and I'm a perfectionist as well......and not until the entire thing came together was I pleased.....I can still improve it a little as I might take in back off......one thing that I didn't anticipate was "DAMN AIR BUBBLES"..like window tint...I had to push air bubbles out....so just a little more info from me to you!
31. Also remeber that if you don't like it...you can redo as many times as you want...the hard part is the prep-part...the easy part is the fabric attachement which is the appearance part....so take your time...and if you don't like it just re-do it.....the cost is nothing!
32.....MANNNNNNNNNNNN!!!!!!what a DIY...and I probably missed some things...so sorry....but this really is a quick and dirty for my kinda explinations
PEACE GUYS/GALS[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
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Rep Power: 0 That was my first "MAJOR" concern....but after looking at the shaft of the plastic rivet and thickness, I was "confident the screws would hold..as a matter of fact.....I think the plastic rivet are VERY cheaply designed as a couple of forcefull tugs and some broke anyway....some areas already had screws and some had plastic rivet.......[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/IMG]
....??????...so that is why I said to use a small screw to reattach...so the sidewall thickness still allows for good strength.....I've had it on for 3 weeks now and I've intentionally tugged very hard...all all seems to be good for now...but yeah time will tell!!!!!..Peace!
....??????...so that is why I said to use a small screw to reattach...so the sidewall thickness still allows for good strength.....I've had it on for 3 weeks now and I've intentionally tugged very hard...all all seems to be good for now...but yeah time will tell!!!!!..Peace! Registered!!
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[hr]Originally posted by: ALLMAN
HOLY GOOD LORD!!!!!!!!!!............it cost me $20....and two days time![hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: ALLMAN
Quote
[hr]It cost me $995.99 installed. I believe if you buy direct from Katzkin and install yourself the kit runs about $560 or so. I wouldn't recomend installing yourself though. It requires special tools, and skill. if you don't install right, when the sun drys the leather it will twist. [hr]
[hr]It cost me $995.99 installed. I believe if you buy direct from Katzkin and install yourself the kit runs about $560 or so. I wouldn't recomend installing yourself though. It requires special tools, and skill. if you don't install right, when the sun drys the leather it will twist. [hr]
HOLY GOOD LORD!!!!!!!!!!............it cost me $20....and two days time![hr]
I'm not knocking DIY. I was just saying that if you purchase Katzkin leather seats, You get the door panels with it. Just another option for those that want to customize their whole interior (not just the doors).
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Rep Power: 0 WOW!!!! Thas was a LOT of friggin work for you. Luckily, the sedans armrest if fully screwed in so no rivet cutting for me. I myself did tuck the material in around the edges. When I removed my factory material, I made a template out of it onto cardboard(actual cardboard, not corrugated paper). I then made the pieces from that and tucked them in as factory was done. I found no problems with this at all. I didnt get any ripples at all. The only thing that even came close was covered by the arm rest. Sorry to hear you had to go through all that trouble. When I painted the upper portion of the door panels, I had to drill out about six or seven plastic rivets on each door(once again remember, 4 doors). I wanted to seperate the upper and lower part when I painted then so they wouldnt look like crap.
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YOU ARE FREAK'N KIDDING ME!!!!!!!!!!...you just detached your panels
...URGGGGGG!.....so I'll officially claim this as my DIY...ALLMAN's DIY...and the hardest I've done yet.....I absolutley love this mod......as well as I've caught the "MOD BUG" again so you guys "BETTER WATCH OUT"...I'm on the rampage..LOL...........so has anyone tried this yet but me?????
YOU ARE FREAK'N KIDDING ME!!!!!!!!!!...you just detached your panels
...URGGGGGG!.....so I'll officially claim this as my DIY...ALLMAN's DIY...and the hardest I've done yet.....I absolutley love this mod......as well as I've caught the "MOD BUG" again so you guys "BETTER WATCH OUT"...I'm on the rampage..LOL...........so has anyone tried this yet but me????? 
