Updated: DIY Relocating spare tire under the car (with pics)
Thread Starter
A descendant of 2k1civic.com
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 5,619
Likes: 3
From: Nebraska
Rep Power: 361 
Updated: DIY Relocating spare tire under the car (with pics)
Ok guys. . This was originally posted, but this is an update of the way I did it, which doesn't involve so much drilling and seems to hold just as well. However it seems a little more ghetto, but I'm happy with it.. I don't want to begin to take credit though for the original DIY post found here by Mohawkboom. Pictures will probably end up at the bottom..
Equipment Needed:
1) One 1/2" Threaded steel rod at least 12" long. I started out with 12" and ended up cutting off some excess at the end..
2) Two 2" x 6" x 1/4" thick steel plates. I went to Lowes and they didn't have that size so I had to get one that was 2" x 12" x 1/4" and cut it in half with a torch.
3) Four 1/2" Nuts that match the threaded rod..
4) Four 1/2" hole 1" across lockwashers.
5) A Drill
6) 5/8" Drill bit. You need one that will get through the 1/4" thick steel plates. If your drill can hold a bit that big then you're set to go. Note: A wood drill bit will not work on the plates ( I tried and It lasted about 20 seconds), however it will work when you drill the hole in the trunk so get at least get the wood one for the trunk. My drill is too small to even dream of holding a bit that big and I can't afford a new drill so I had to use an alternative method. Get items #7 and #8 only if your drill wont hold a 5/8" bit.
If your drill doesn't support a 5/8" bit then get the following BTW: These items. . You can pick up at Wal-Mart.
7) 1" Bore Bit . This you can get at Wal-Mart it's in the power tools aisle located next to the other bits. It's main use if for door locks and stuff, but you need it cause it'll put holes in the 1/4" steel and will fit on smaller drills.
8) Six 1/2" Hole 2" Across washers. Yes. . They are big..
Now for the fun part:
Steps:
1: Remove spare tire from trunk.
2: Jack up car as high as you can get the rear. Use jackstands to hold it at that height (safety first!)
3: Find a place underneath where the spare will best fit. Once you find a good spot, mark through the center of the spare, a jack may be useful for helping you hold the tire up.
4: Get that spare tire out of the way.
5: Drill 5/8" inch hole through the bottom of the trunk where you marked. Like I said above a wood bit will work here if that's what you got..
Now. . . This is where the DIY splits. Continue on down the list if you have a pimp drill and a 5/8" bit. Scroll down a bit if your drill is a $20 Craftsman special like mine for the alternative method.
6: Drill 5/8" holes through the middle of each plate. - Recommend WD-40 to keep it lubed up and reduce friction.
7: Put one of your metal plates inside the trunk and line up the hole in the plate with the hole in the trunk.
8: Twist one of your 1/2" nuts on the end of the threaded rod (which really shouldn't be any longer than 12". If it is then cut it down cause that's too big to work with) along with a lock washer and put it through the plate and trunk floor.
You should now have about 11" of rod sticking out of the bottom of your car.
9: Climb under the car and put on a locking washer and nut and twist it all the way up.
10: Grab an assisstant to hold a wrench on the top nut while you turn the one underneath the car. Tighten the living **** out of this. You don't want it to ever come off.
You should now have a rod that is in there pretty tight.
11: Get the spare and feed the rod through the center of the spare. Again a jack may be useful to help you hold it up.
12: Put the other steel plate on.
13. Locking Washer then nut. Tighten it up. Then just to make sure it's not going anywhere. Add another lock washer and nut and tighten.
14. You can saw off any excess material hanging down.
There you go!!!
ALLRIGHT. . For those others (like me) that need the alternative method of putting holes in 1/4" steel follow the below steps starting with #6.
6: Take your 1" bore bit and put a hole through the middle of each plate - recommend WD-40 to keep it lubed up and reduce friction.
7: Put one of your metal plates inside the trunk and line up the hole in the plate with the hole in the trunk.
8: Twist one of your 1/2" nuts on the end of the threaded rod (which really shouldn't be any longer than 12". If it is then cut it down cause that's too big to work with) along with one of the 1/2" lock washers and two of your larger 2" washers and put it through the plate and trunk floor.
You should now have about 11" of rod sticking out of the bottom of your car.
9: Climb under the car and put on two larger 2" washer a 1/2" locking washer and nut and twist it all the way up.
10: Grab an assisstant to hold a wrench on the top nut while you turn the one underneath the car. Tighten the living **** out of this. You don't want it to ever come off.
You should now have a rod that is in there pretty tight.
11: Get the spare and feed the rod through the center of the spare. Again a jack may be useful to help you hold it up.
12: Put the other steel plate on.
13. Two big washers, locking washer, then nut. Tighten it up. Then just to make sure it's not going anywhere use the other locking washer and nut and tighten ..
14. You can saw off any excess material hanging down.
There you have it!!
Hope this helps .. .
PS. The threaded rod and wing nut type thing that held the tire in the trunk originally isn't needed anymore. In case you were wondering . . You can do whatever you want with them..
Attachments:
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] ACF21C7.jpg (32 Kb)
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] under1.jpg (49 Kb)
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] under2.jpg (48 Kb)
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] under3.jpg (35 Kb)
Equipment Needed:
1) One 1/2" Threaded steel rod at least 12" long. I started out with 12" and ended up cutting off some excess at the end..
2) Two 2" x 6" x 1/4" thick steel plates. I went to Lowes and they didn't have that size so I had to get one that was 2" x 12" x 1/4" and cut it in half with a torch.
3) Four 1/2" Nuts that match the threaded rod..
4) Four 1/2" hole 1" across lockwashers.
5) A Drill
6) 5/8" Drill bit. You need one that will get through the 1/4" thick steel plates. If your drill can hold a bit that big then you're set to go. Note: A wood drill bit will not work on the plates ( I tried and It lasted about 20 seconds), however it will work when you drill the hole in the trunk so get at least get the wood one for the trunk. My drill is too small to even dream of holding a bit that big and I can't afford a new drill so I had to use an alternative method. Get items #7 and #8 only if your drill wont hold a 5/8" bit.
If your drill doesn't support a 5/8" bit then get the following BTW: These items. . You can pick up at Wal-Mart.
7) 1" Bore Bit . This you can get at Wal-Mart it's in the power tools aisle located next to the other bits. It's main use if for door locks and stuff, but you need it cause it'll put holes in the 1/4" steel and will fit on smaller drills.
8) Six 1/2" Hole 2" Across washers. Yes. . They are big..
Now for the fun part:
Steps:
1: Remove spare tire from trunk.
2: Jack up car as high as you can get the rear. Use jackstands to hold it at that height (safety first!)
3: Find a place underneath where the spare will best fit. Once you find a good spot, mark through the center of the spare, a jack may be useful for helping you hold the tire up.
4: Get that spare tire out of the way.
5: Drill 5/8" inch hole through the bottom of the trunk where you marked. Like I said above a wood bit will work here if that's what you got..
Now. . . This is where the DIY splits. Continue on down the list if you have a pimp drill and a 5/8" bit. Scroll down a bit if your drill is a $20 Craftsman special like mine for the alternative method.
6: Drill 5/8" holes through the middle of each plate. - Recommend WD-40 to keep it lubed up and reduce friction.
7: Put one of your metal plates inside the trunk and line up the hole in the plate with the hole in the trunk.
8: Twist one of your 1/2" nuts on the end of the threaded rod (which really shouldn't be any longer than 12". If it is then cut it down cause that's too big to work with) along with a lock washer and put it through the plate and trunk floor.
You should now have about 11" of rod sticking out of the bottom of your car.
9: Climb under the car and put on a locking washer and nut and twist it all the way up.
10: Grab an assisstant to hold a wrench on the top nut while you turn the one underneath the car. Tighten the living **** out of this. You don't want it to ever come off.
You should now have a rod that is in there pretty tight.
11: Get the spare and feed the rod through the center of the spare. Again a jack may be useful to help you hold it up.
12: Put the other steel plate on.
13. Locking Washer then nut. Tighten it up. Then just to make sure it's not going anywhere. Add another lock washer and nut and tighten.
14. You can saw off any excess material hanging down.
There you go!!!
ALLRIGHT. . For those others (like me) that need the alternative method of putting holes in 1/4" steel follow the below steps starting with #6.
6: Take your 1" bore bit and put a hole through the middle of each plate - recommend WD-40 to keep it lubed up and reduce friction.
7: Put one of your metal plates inside the trunk and line up the hole in the plate with the hole in the trunk.
8: Twist one of your 1/2" nuts on the end of the threaded rod (which really shouldn't be any longer than 12". If it is then cut it down cause that's too big to work with) along with one of the 1/2" lock washers and two of your larger 2" washers and put it through the plate and trunk floor.
You should now have about 11" of rod sticking out of the bottom of your car.
9: Climb under the car and put on two larger 2" washer a 1/2" locking washer and nut and twist it all the way up.
10: Grab an assisstant to hold a wrench on the top nut while you turn the one underneath the car. Tighten the living **** out of this. You don't want it to ever come off.
You should now have a rod that is in there pretty tight.
11: Get the spare and feed the rod through the center of the spare. Again a jack may be useful to help you hold it up.
12: Put the other steel plate on.
13. Two big washers, locking washer, then nut. Tighten it up. Then just to make sure it's not going anywhere use the other locking washer and nut and tighten ..
14. You can saw off any excess material hanging down.
There you have it!!
Hope this helps .. .
PS. The threaded rod and wing nut type thing that held the tire in the trunk originally isn't needed anymore. In case you were wondering . . You can do whatever you want with them..
Attachments:
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] ACF21C7.jpg (32 Kb)
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] under1.jpg (49 Kb)
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] under2.jpg (48 Kb)
[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] under3.jpg (35 Kb)
2k1civic.com O. G.
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,165
Likes: 0
From: PhILLy, Pennsylvania, US
Rep Power: 335 good DIY.. im not one to trust myself when drilling permanent holes into my car.. anyone in the philadelphia, PA area done this? i would pay for someone to do that for me...
again excellent DIY..
again excellent DIY..
Thread Starter
A descendant of 2k1civic.com
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 5,619
Likes: 3
From: Nebraska
Rep Power: 361 I haven't had any scraping problems or anything yet. I'm about 36 hours into this application. So far so good. It's not that much lower than the exhaust. If you go low enough to hit the rod, then your probably hitting some other important stuff like the exhaust. I don't think it will be a problem. Now. Having the spare the other way is probably possible, I wasn't thinking that at the time. I'll have to try and flip it see what happens. Seems like it might be better. I'll let you guys know.
Registered!!
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
From: Plano, Texas, US
Rep Power: 0 I don't mean to be rude, or nasty or anything but I thought this was a joke when I read the first post. I can't believe this.
Good job and props to figuring this out. I'm sitting here with my mouth wide open just trying to figure it out...wow....again, good job...
Good job and props to figuring this out. I'm sitting here with my mouth wide open just trying to figure it out...wow....again, good job...
Registered!!
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,555
Likes: 0
From: Tinley Park, Illinois, US
Rep Power: 320 [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the spare typically gets relocated to the side of the spare tire well. I'm just lookin' at Derek's pic here and that's what it looks like to me.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the spare typically gets relocated to the side of the spare tire well. I'm just lookin' at Derek's pic here and that's what it looks like to me.
Registered!!
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,127
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 0 Wouldn't the relocation cause your spare to be dirty as hell, and the threads to that screw and bolt probably all mucked up?? Imagine going through a car wash with the water shooting up (to wash underbody), or maybe just driving in a real rainy day.... possible water leaking through that drill hole?
Kudos to you, but I'd rather have my cheezy donut in the trunk [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
Kudos to you, but I'd rather have my cheezy donut in the trunk [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
Registered!!
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: saint joseph, Missouri, US
Rep Power: 0 I agree with furball about the spare and threads getting mucked up. Silicone will stop water from getting in the hole, but the dealer told me that the dealer isn't responsible for the donut and neither is dunkin donuts. Sorry, I know that was lame laugh but that really is what he said.[IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG]
Thread Starter
A descendant of 2k1civic.com
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 5,619
Likes: 3
From: Nebraska
Rep Power: 361 Heh. . Go through the car wash all the time. . Nothing leaking . . May throw a bead of silicon on there. Maybe just say screw it and pull it off all together. Haven't decided yet. . So far I like it. . I still should flip it though so I can make the rod shorter. Other than that no problems. . I went over a mammoth speed bump and it hit, but nothing major.
Registered!!
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,202
Likes: 1
From: Car Audioville, Quebec, Canada
Rep Power: 0 Do not do his DIY...the single bolt will hold..but when you try to get the spare off under the car..the bolt on top will spin too....this is I've always used 2 pther bolts on the side and had the threaded rod welded..this will keep it very stable so that you can remove the spare without needing someone to hold the bolt..
It's a good DIY [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..also mount the spare inverted from how it's shown in the pic..so that there is no bolt sticking out...
I've done a few of these and so far no one's lost a spare on the highway or anything [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].
It's a good DIY [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..also mount the spare inverted from how it's shown in the pic..so that there is no bolt sticking out...
I've done a few of these and so far no one's lost a spare on the highway or anything [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG].
Registered!!
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,344
Likes: 0
From: bay area, california
Rep Power: 339 if anyone wants to be really really cool, you can send me the stock bolt you are not using, ill tensile test it here on campus, and we can find out what kind of factor of safety we are talking abotu here with this mod.........
Registered!!
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: , Other, ZEBRA
Rep Power: 0 I thought about doing this DIY to my Coupe when i was looking for a palce to mount my amps, but the spare just didnt seem to be thin enough to safetly be tucked away. I'm sure there are other steel rims that can be substituted for the Spare tire. So now i'm going to try and find a spare that is thinner. a few inches less that the stock spare rim should be fine.And as for the tire getting dirty or soemthing, i dont believe it should, My Tahoe has the tire located under thr trunk, and it is just fine there, come to think of it, it would be cool to put one of the "things" the tahoe has that takes the spare tire up and down with the turn of a rod.
Registered!!
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,555
Likes: 0
From: Tinley Park, Illinois, US
Rep Power: 320 hrmmph. I think the coupes have more room up there. The spare dosn't fit up there (on sedans) unless it's at some angle or half-way visible. There seems to be more room under there on the passenger's side of the car, but that's where the exhaust is. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/IMG]
i boogie for the raindrops
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 4,497
Likes: 1
From: Jackson, Mississippi
Rep Power: 0 Mohawkboom writes:
well now mohawk, maybe the top bolt could be held on securely if one was to use some crazy strong epoxy of sorts on the top bolt to keep it secured, or use a wingnut and throw something in the way so the wingnut gets stopped from making a full circle turn, or any other of the ghetto alternatives for those of us with no welding capabilities
Quote
[hr]Do not do his DIY...the single bolt will hold..but when you try to get the spare off under the car..the bolt on top will spin too....this is I've always used 2 pther bolts on the side and had the threaded rod welded..this will keep it very stable so that you can remove the spare without needing someone to hold the bolt..[hr]
[hr]Do not do his DIY...the single bolt will hold..but when you try to get the spare off under the car..the bolt on top will spin too....this is I've always used 2 pther bolts on the side and had the threaded rod welded..this will keep it very stable so that you can remove the spare without needing someone to hold the bolt..[hr]
well now mohawk, maybe the top bolt could be held on securely if one was to use some crazy strong epoxy of sorts on the top bolt to keep it secured, or use a wingnut and throw something in the way so the wingnut gets stopped from making a full circle turn, or any other of the ghetto alternatives for those of us with no welding capabilities
2k1civic.com O. G.
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,165
Likes: 0
From: PhILLy, Pennsylvania, US
Rep Power: 335 does anyone have a problem with a heavily lowered car? i have my progress springs and it says 2 inches.. and i aslo wanna do this tire relocation.. so what u guyz think?
Registered!!
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,032
Likes: 0
From: Stankonia, Michigan, Michigan, US
Rep Power: 0 What about rust?...With the rod with the nuts exposed on the bottom...whats the chance that you're gonna have a problem with the hardware gettin stuck on...makin it a biatch to get that spare off!...I really wanna do this...just don't want it to backfire on me...
Registered!!
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 675
Likes: 0
From: Anne Arundle/Laurel, Maryland, US
Rep Power: 0 for those of you who dont have access to a weilder, you could always try a lock washer (which pheaton uses), 99% of the time it will work long enough for you to losen the bolt but, you always have the problem of stones mucking up the threads and causing a problem, a fix for that is to hacksaw the remaining unused portion of the bolt off AFTER YOU TIGHTEN THE NUTS HOLDING THE TIRE UP, any damage to the thread will be fixed when unscrewing the nut past the hacksawed part. hope this was clear enough.
Registered!!
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, Texas, US
Rep Power: 0 still one question, where is the gas tank located, and we we choose to select another location, is there a risk to drilling into something we shouldn't? I wish there was like a skeleton diagram to our cars. doesn't chilton have something like that?
Registered!!
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,202
Likes: 1
From: Car Audioville, Quebec, Canada
Rep Power: 0
Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: LudlamTheory
Mohawkboom writes:
well now mohawk, maybe the top bolt could be held on securely if one was to use some crazy strong epoxy of sorts on the top bolt to keep it secured, or use a wingnut and throw something in the way so the wingnut gets stopped from making a full circle turn, or any other of the ghetto alternatives for those of us with no welding capabilities[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: LudlamTheory
Mohawkboom writes:
Quote
[hr]Do not do his DIY...the single bolt will hold..but when you try to get the spare off under the car..the bolt on top will spin too....this is I've always used 2 pther bolts on the side and had the threaded rod welded..this will keep it very stable so that you can remove the spare without needing someone to hold the bolt..[hr]
[hr]Do not do his DIY...the single bolt will hold..but when you try to get the spare off under the car..the bolt on top will spin too....this is I've always used 2 pther bolts on the side and had the threaded rod welded..this will keep it very stable so that you can remove the spare without needing someone to hold the bolt..[hr]
well now mohawk, maybe the top bolt could be held on securely if one was to use some crazy strong epoxy of sorts on the top bolt to keep it secured, or use a wingnut and throw something in the way so the wingnut gets stopped from making a full circle turn, or any other of the ghetto alternatives for those of us with no welding capabilities[hr]
Which is why on the DIY I posted for this originally I reccomendedusing 2 bolts to hold the plate securely to the body of the car..
