Bank 1 Sensor 1 Failed E Test
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Bank 1 Sensor 1 Failed E Test
About a month ago i went for an E-Test i failed with 2 diagnostic codes (P0135 - 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1 and P0141 - 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2). i also had not ready on Catalyst, Evap System, O2 Sensor and EGR System.
A little back story, one of the times i took my engine out this summer i forgot to disconnect both those sensors that gave the DTC codes when i was pulling it out. There was some damage to one beyond repair and the other one had wires pulled out of the wiring socket.
After failing the E-Test that first time i bought a new upstream sensor (Sensor 1) and with a lot of elbow grease i was able to swap it. I also rewired the socket in the downstream sensor (Sensor 2). I did a voltage test in the wiring harness side for both sensors and did a resistance test in both sensors and everthing looked good. So today I got an E-Test and i failed with only one DTC code (P2A00 - Sensor Circuit Rang/Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1) and one system monitored (Evap System not ready).
Im trying to confirm another mistake I made and here is my question: I changed sensor 1 with this sensor: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/122022846614
and i realise now that it fits on a D17A7 engine. Mine is the D17A1 and i'm wondering if thats what would give me the dtc code. The part fit no problem in my exhaust manifold and in the wiring socket so i thought there would be no difference. Do i simply have to buy an O2 sensor for the D17A1 or is there no difference and something else is the problem.
Thanks alot if you read all of this and can help me.
A little back story, one of the times i took my engine out this summer i forgot to disconnect both those sensors that gave the DTC codes when i was pulling it out. There was some damage to one beyond repair and the other one had wires pulled out of the wiring socket.
After failing the E-Test that first time i bought a new upstream sensor (Sensor 1) and with a lot of elbow grease i was able to swap it. I also rewired the socket in the downstream sensor (Sensor 2). I did a voltage test in the wiring harness side for both sensors and did a resistance test in both sensors and everthing looked good. So today I got an E-Test and i failed with only one DTC code (P2A00 - Sensor Circuit Rang/Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1) and one system monitored (Evap System not ready).
Im trying to confirm another mistake I made and here is my question: I changed sensor 1 with this sensor: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/122022846614
and i realise now that it fits on a D17A7 engine. Mine is the D17A1 and i'm wondering if thats what would give me the dtc code. The part fit no problem in my exhaust manifold and in the wiring socket so i thought there would be no difference. Do i simply have to buy an O2 sensor for the D17A1 or is there no difference and something else is the problem.
Thanks alot if you read all of this and can help me.
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Wow i feel really dumb now. Im going to get the right one and swap it out. Do you also by chance know if the 02 sensor problem could cause the evap system to not be ready? Or is it not related in any way.
Thanks.
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Re: Bank 1 Sensor 1 Failed E Test
Evap system is the longest system to come back after a battery disconnect, code clear.
Fill the gas tank up and drive, not sure the cycle needed but generally it’s 20-30 miles at speeds over 45mph. With multiple stops and engine cooldowns mixed in.
be happy it’s not a 1997 pathfinder, that one took 150 miles to verify..
Fill the gas tank up and drive, not sure the cycle needed but generally it’s 20-30 miles at speeds over 45mph. With multiple stops and engine cooldowns mixed in.
be happy it’s not a 1997 pathfinder, that one took 150 miles to verify..
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Taken from another Honda site..
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...d-2-a-1802981/
OBD-II Drive Cycle
(Taken from Understanding OBDII: Past, Present & Future)
The OBD-II drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below
122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees
of one another).
NOTE: The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the
heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
1. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half
minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBD-II checks oxygen sensor heater
circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.
2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half
throttle. OBD-II checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.
Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes. OBD-II monitors
EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.
3. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the
clutch. OBD-II checks EGR and purge functions.
4. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBD-II checks misfire,
fuel trim and purge again.
5. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. OBD-II monitors
catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and
purge functions.
6. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBD-II makes a final
check of EGR and canister purge.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...d-2-a-1802981/
OBD-II Drive Cycle
(Taken from Understanding OBDII: Past, Present & Future)
The OBD-II drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below
122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees
of one another).
NOTE: The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the
heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
1. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half
minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBD-II checks oxygen sensor heater
circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.
2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half
throttle. OBD-II checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.
Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes. OBD-II monitors
EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.
3. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the
clutch. OBD-II checks EGR and purge functions.
4. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBD-II checks misfire,
fuel trim and purge again.
5. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. OBD-II monitors
catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and
purge functions.
6. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBD-II makes a final
check of EGR and canister purge.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 517 Re: Bank 1 Sensor 1 Failed E Test
Do i simply have to buy an O2 sensor for the D17A1
What brand was your original sensor? Stick with that same brand if at all possible!
Denso online catalog (LINK) shows # 234-9005
NTK/NGK online catalog (LINK) shows # 24665
Also...don't fill the gas tank to the top, the monitor won't run when it's totally full. Leave it about 3/4 full to start the drive cycles.
If it's below about -6*C after sitting overnight, the evap monitor may not be able to run at all.
Last edited by ezone; Jan 20, 2018 at 12:09 PM.
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