My Engine Light Comes on and off
#1
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Rep Power: 0 My Engine Light Comes on and off
my engine light will come off when its cold and sits for more than a day ,sometimes, or it'll stay on until it comes off. I have a code reader and its a cylinder 3 misfire, I've replaced the spark plugs and have coil packs coming in today to you have any other ideas?
#2
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Re: My Engine Light Comes on and off
my engine light will come off when its cold and sits for more than a day ,sometimes, or it'll stay on until it comes off. I have a code reader and its a cylinder 3 misfire, I've replaced the spark plugs and have coil packs coming in today to you have any other ideas?
What is the exact code please?
If a coil is suspected just swap with another one next to it..if, say cylinder 3 is faulty and is swapped with cylinder four (not faulty)..then cylinder four will throw a misfire code and cylinder three won't. This isolates the issue and reduces unwanted expense if coil(s) are working properly. The same can be done by swapping spark plugs.
Use a piece of PVC tubing, long screwdriver or autostethoscope and place it against cylinder 3's fuel injector while the engine is idling. You should hear it firing (pulse/ticking sound). If you don't hear it the inector isn't firing and needs to be replaced. If it is firing it doesn't mean it's injecting the right amount of fuel, spray pattern or injecting fuel at all. So, lack of or absence of fuel in that cylinder could be the cause of misfire. Can swap the fuel injectors to test.
Do a compression test.
Read: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/hon...el-injectors-2
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Does the CEL blink multiple times?
What is the exact code please?
If a coil is suspected just swap with another one next to it..if, say cylinder 3 is faulty and is swapped with cylinder four (not faulty)..then cylinder four will throw a misfire code and cylinder three won't. This isolates the issue and reduces unwanted expense if coil(s) are working properly. The same can be done by swapping spark plugs.
Use a piece of PVC tubing, long screwdriver or autostethoscope and place it against cylinder 3's fuel injector while the engine is idling. You should hear it firing (pulse/ticking sound). If you don't hear it the inector isn't firing and needs to be replaced. If it is firing it doesn't mean it's injecting the right amount of fuel, spray pattern or injecting fuel at all. So, lack of or absence of fuel in that cylinder could be the cause of misfire. Can swap the fuel injectors to test.
Do a compression test.
Read: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/hon...el-injectors-2
What is the exact code please?
If a coil is suspected just swap with another one next to it..if, say cylinder 3 is faulty and is swapped with cylinder four (not faulty)..then cylinder four will throw a misfire code and cylinder three won't. This isolates the issue and reduces unwanted expense if coil(s) are working properly. The same can be done by swapping spark plugs.
Use a piece of PVC tubing, long screwdriver or autostethoscope and place it against cylinder 3's fuel injector while the engine is idling. You should hear it firing (pulse/ticking sound). If you don't hear it the inector isn't firing and needs to be replaced. If it is firing it doesn't mean it's injecting the right amount of fuel, spray pattern or injecting fuel at all. So, lack of or absence of fuel in that cylinder could be the cause of misfire. Can swap the fuel injectors to test.
Do a compression test.
Read: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/hon...el-injectors-2
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I installed them and it seems to be running smoother but the engine light is still. Would it shut off automatically or do i have to drive it a certain number of miles
#6
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: My Engine Light Comes on and off
Make sure you have your radio unlock code first!
#8
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
#9
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Re: My Engine Light Comes on and off
When the ECU decides something is completely whack it will flash the MIL..
Crank position and camshaft sensors reading las if two cylinders are dead is the kind of stuff needed to cause a flashing MIL.
Really should not drive at all in flashing mode, between too much raw fuel going into catalytic converter which can lead to burnout or actual fire, too to much unbalanced vibrations causing bearing issues it’s time to tow it if you care about it.
Crank position and camshaft sensors reading las if two cylinders are dead is the kind of stuff needed to cause a flashing MIL.
Really should not drive at all in flashing mode, between too much raw fuel going into catalytic converter which can lead to burnout or actual fire, too to much unbalanced vibrations causing bearing issues it’s time to tow it if you care about it.
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For about a week it was off for about 200 miles or so and i started to drive the car again yesterday and the engine light was on blinking but its only when im at a complete stop and sitting for a minute
#11
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: My Engine Light Comes on and off
Flashing CEL while running means misfire codes.
Read codes to figure out which cylinders are affected.
Fix the misfire.
Compression test?
Read codes to figure out which cylinders are affected.
Fix the misfire.
Compression test?
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#13
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So i did a compression test and the cylinder thats misfiring is running at 100 to 110 and the rest were at about 150 to 160 i was told that i need to adjust my valves or get new rings but rings are a bitch to do
#14
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Re: My Engine Light Comes on and off
On the low cylinder did you try adding a bit of oil in the spark plug hole to see if compression goes back up to 150range?
Seems our engine is famous for losing a lot of compression if the cylinder gets flooded with gas.
Seems our engine is famous for losing a lot of compression if the cylinder gets flooded with gas.
#15
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: My Engine Light Comes on and off
Adjust valve lash to specs
Do compression test again, see if compression comes up in the low cylinder
If no improvement, then a cylinder leakdown test is used to help locate the cause of compression loss.
Wet test is used for checking compression rings, but it can be misleading sometimes.
A burned valve causing low compression is much more likely than failed compression rings, but stuck oil control rings are just about expected at high mileage.
-------
Also, I expect to see 180+ psi out of these engines using my testers and methods:
-All plugs removed,
-throttle propped wide open
-battery charger connected so battery stays up throughout the testing
-place gauge where I can see it while cranking
-Crank it until the gauge stops climbing, then keep on cranking for several more hits just to make sure the gauge has reached its absolute maximum
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