Rep Power: 366

The rotors in the 7th gen lasts a long time. Mine were still stock and if one was not warped, they would still be there.

after 1 1/2 year in Canada, they were stuck in place... One side, I had a bearing replaced, so it was removed (they did not put the bolts back, I can understand why).

the other... a pain!
I am referring to these ones that are still left in the rotor. They are simply there to hold them in place during the assembly line to not to fall out.



impact wrench, drill with driver bits, PB blast, heat, nothing could take them out. Also, I had to stop before they stripped.

that's when MAC and ezone told me of the impact driver. No, it's not an impact wrench.
this is not powered, it's manual.

it have bits that are screw drivers (straight, philips) and when you wack on them, they turn.

So, you don't need to push like crazy, the wack pushes the tool against the bolt, so it does not strip as easily.

took me two days wacking the hell out of it...





but victory was mine!!!



The holding bolts will never find its way back to the rotors!!!



thanks, Mac and ezone!

note: there's some of them that are reversible, but there's no manual that comes with them. Be sure it's adjusted to the right direction before you go wacking at it.
I pushed mine against the floor to see which direction it turned.

 
Rep Power: 242

Those darn screws are why I own an impact screw driver. Nice write up.

I found that when I used freezing spray (for electronics) on the screws they came out better. But sometimes they just won't move!!

 
Rep Power: 0

You can drill the heads off the old screws. That's where they corrode (under the heads), anyway.

When you fit new rotors you can leave the headless screws in place, or just crank 'em out with Vise-Grips.

+++++++++++

I intimidate my rotor screws these days, by having both my drill and impact wrench nearby where the rotors can see them! When the parts KNOW they can't win, they come out EASY.

Same thing works well for sway bar end-links.