Rep Power: 0

OK, so any help will be appreciated. Before I go into my swap questions, maybe someone has an idea about where my oil is being burned? Just did a valve job, replaced valve guide seals. It's burning a quart every 3-400 miles. Still getting 40+mpg. No oil leaks.

If this were my car I would have no problem just adding the oil every tank of fuel, the problem is that it's my wifes car and she forgets and I work out of town. I have a 88 CRX that has a ZC swap that I did a few years ago, less than 100k on that motor. Is it a direct swap? Intake and exhaust manifolds all going to swap over? When I did the other swap I pulled the transmission at the same time. Is it better to pull the engine without pulling the transmission?

Any help will be appreciated. Thanks

 
Rep Power: 518

Stuck oil control rings would be my guess.

 
Rep Power: 0

and how do I fix oil control rings?

 
Rep Power: 518

First, why was the head pulled off and valve job done? Was the engine overheated, head gasket blown?




Assuming my guess could be correct, (there's always other possibilities like rings ruined form overheating, PCV problems, and wrong oil choices, etc.)

Pull out the pistons, clean all the carbon from the ring grooves and re-ring.
Most work, highest cost, best and fastest results.

Or try some miracle solvents in the cylinders......

Or my favorite is to change to much better quality oil and let that slowly clean the carbon deposits from the inside, if that's possible in the given situation.
---It's slowly been working in my GFs Saturn, it's gone from a quart every 500 or less, to a quart in 1500 or more. It's required zero effort, but it's taken a lot of miles to get it to this point though.

Kinakoes has a different approach, involving small doses of a C rated oil I believe...


HTH

 
Rep Power: 0

I bought the car in March with a blown head gasket, fixed that but didn't do a valve job at the time, it was running great but burning oil, a few weeks ago it started getting bad gas millage so did a compression check and had a weak cylinder. pulled off the head and had one cracked exhaust valve. replaced valves and valve guide seals. Running great again but still burning oil.

 
Rep Power: 518

Ok I assume you don't know any of the history of the car....

Was the head warped, did it need milled flat again? Warped head means it got overheated.




I'd probably just assume the oil consumption issue has probably been developing as a slow ongoing process over its previous lifetime of care or lack of care...... and now you bought it.

How's the compression test now? (compression test cannot tell you anything about the oil rings, they could be missing completely and the test would still be ok.)