Rep Power: 192

Hey, got an all stock 2000 hatch and the rear wheels are cambered inward causing wear on inner tread of tires.
Passenger side seems to be more excessive.
Is this normal for this generation?
I don't think washer mod would add enough positive camber.
Upper control arms seem a bit worn.
I'd rather replace with factory arms than to use cheap "camber arms" if using new upper arms would restore alignment.

Also, can toe be corrected with factory components?

Thanks!

 
Rep Power: 0

If you are concerned with tire wear or performance why not restore your camber to stock?

 
Rep Power: 518

If this is true, then fix it.


Some negative camber is usually designed into the suspension.
Is yours out of the spec range? (I did not look up any specs on that car.)

Got a printout of your current wheel alignment?

Camber isn't the only cause of tire wear, the toe must be correct too. Most of the cars tend to run a little negative camber in the rear, but have spec'd toe-in to keep the tire wear in check and keep it stable.

If you run neg camber with zero toe or toe-out, they will eat up the inner edges of the tread.

 
Rep Power: 192

Thanks guys.
Everything is stock, I don't have adjustable arms. Don't trust the cheap ones and prefer not to spend $150+)
I picked up new factory upper control arms for the rear and will get an alignment and go from there.

Does anyone know if the toe can be adjusted with stock components oR do I need to pick up a toe kit?

 
Rep Power: 518

The factory gave provisions for rear toe adjustment......

IF they aren't frozen and seized up.

Here in the rust belt, adjustment can become impossible without a whole lot of extra work and possible disasters.

 
Rep Power: 192

Yup, went to take the bushing bolt out of the rear upper control arm and the head broke off..LOL

Anyways, after going through a whole grinding wheel and using a chisel I got everything out.

Had to make a run to the parts store and found Class 8.8 M10 machine bolts. Factory is class 10, but as far as I know 8.8 is used in most suspension parts anyways. The factory nut is welded on, I don't have a welder so used a lock tooth washer on both sides. Loaded suspension and tightened everything up.

Huge difference in camber, must have restored at least 3*. The original bushing that is connected to the two bolt arm was completely shot. I'm going to do the other side some time and get an alignment.

Thanks again guys!

 
Rep Power: 518

In the shop, that just tripled or quadrupled the labor estimate.

Your toe adjuster bolts are likely to meet the same fate. Good luck!

 
Rep Power: 192

Yeah, it didn't really take me long to fix at all though actually.
I may not even get an alignment since I only experienced tire wear on the inner tread, and I'm definitely not toe out. My negative camber was bad though, enough that a few people pointed it out.
I expect to do the same repair on the other side, but it's all good. Easy repair, save me on tires.