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After recently changing the thermostat in my 91 the check engine light come on. The car run rough for about the first 1-2 minutes and started to heat up, so i bled the coolant to make sure it hadn't air locked which it had. After that i started it and it was fine temp wise but still with the engine light on. The car has what feels like a slight miss but its not consitant and what seems like half the engine power is gone and boggs down very easy when on hills that i would climb in 5th now have to go to 3rd. I have to rev the car out just to get it to go most of the time. On idle its just as smooth as can be.

The motor is a 1.6

As far as codes im not able to get one due to the hillbilly push start that was on the car when i got it. So im down to chasing sensors. Any ideas on how to track this check engine light problem? Or what sensor could be causing the problem?

Thanks in advance.

 
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I don't know much but I would start with resetting the light. I'm pretty sure you can remove the fuse for the computer in the main fuse box under the hood. That should reset the light. See if it comes back on and go from there. As far as the rough idle and loss of power I'm not too sure what that is. It could be one of many things.

 
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I have been told that its called a back up fuse? 7.5 amp? Is it seperated from all the other fuses under the hood, meaning in the black fuse box on the passenger side?

 
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If you have a check engine light you can get the codes out of it. DAFUQ is that, and what does it have to do with not getting codes?

 
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exactly

 
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Civic Savior, Could you help me out on the location of that fuse? Im by no means familiar with where it would be.

 
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Its a 75 amp on/off switch and a momentary push button.

I have been told that in order to get the codes that the key has to be in the first on position with the jumper in place at the 2 pin connector at the passenger side floor board . Well theres no key or ignition. Someone wasn't smart enough to just go and have a key made when they lost them before i bought it. So when the 75 amp on/off switch is on i have all positions on. Hints the reason i can't get the codes? Maybe. Or it might not even be throwing a code for all i know. Is there another way to get a code/codes.

 
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HA! We might call that a NASCAR setup here LOL



Your ignition IS that switch. Key is irrelevant.

Yours should be old enough to have a LED visible in a little porthole window on the ECM.

Turn the switch on (do not start the engine).

Read (count) the blinkin lights.

 
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Blinks are as listed

1 long
pause
7 short
pause
20 short

Then it repeats but without the 1 long blink and just has the 7 short, pause 20 short. Could the first long blink just mean power is being supplied to the ecu
Ok, question is what does that mean. From my research ive done it means or atleast i think it means

Code 1- oxygen content
Code 7- throttle angle
Code 20- electric load

Am i right or wrong?

 
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[quote=ezone;4659222]HA! We might call that a NASCAR setup here LOL



LOL, NASCAR SETUP. Thats what im gonna call it from now on, lol. I like that.

 
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One long flash I believe is not a code. I think the light just comes on like that any time the ignition is powered up.
Codes begin after that, so you probably have the 7 and 20. (Code 1 would have been a short flash.)

Can someone else double check me on that?



Remove HAZARD fuse in the engine compartment fusebox for 10 seconds to erase codes. (Or disconnect the battery)


You could erase the codes, then recheck again and see what you have without starting the car.
See that there is still a long flash before codes are output.

 
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Well I have made some progress after getting the codes. Pulled the fuse and gave it 10 seconds or so and replaced it. That got rid of the 20 short flashes. Then repeated the same process to clear the 7 short flashes and it worked. Started the car and the engine light stayed off and I could tell a difference just in the way the motor sounded. But about 20-30 seconds later the light came back on. Turned it off and checked the codes again and the 7 short we're back. So if its code 7 that's throttle angle. What needs replaced?

 
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I'd get a voltmeter and test, see why it thinks there's a problem.


Not all problems can be solved by firing the parts cannon.

 
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Got a volt meter here at work, will test the TPS when its time to go home for the day. I do believe that is probably my culprit atleast i hope so any way. Thanks alot for all the help. Will post the results later tonight.

 
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It's likely that it is the cause of your issue.

But what if, for example, a rodent chewed off one of the wires to it?
Don't you think that would set the exact same code?
(I live in a corn field, we deal with chewed wiring a lot in my area, this is a very real scenario for me.)

Same thing for loose fitting female terminals in the harness connector.
And more.


See where I'm going with this?
Test, don't guess.







Just for giggles, I looked up your TPS. You would have had to buy a complete throttle body to get the TPS from Honda, and it is no longer available. The price was over $400 retail.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...E+BODY+%282%29


Good luck.

 
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Well got busy at work and forgot my meter. Anyways got home and like I said before I'm not familiar with the under the hood stuff. Checked the tps and it had zip ties holding it on. So I cut the ties and found the clips on the tps are broke hints the reason for the zip ties. So I disconnected the harness cleaned the corrosion and zip tied it back on. Cleared the ecm and presto! No codes and the ol shitvic is back to its old self. FOR NOW,lol. Thanks so much for the help!