top dead center question?
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top dead center question?
i am replacing the head gasket,waterpump...
i followed the procedure for TDC but when i took of the covers to expose the timing belt,the bottom pulley is lined up with the notch on the block.the top pulley however,the UP marking is on bottom?
can i just remove the timing belt and rotate the top pulley to the UP position?
might i add this job is a PITA.
i followed the procedure for TDC but when i took of the covers to expose the timing belt,the bottom pulley is lined up with the notch on the block.the top pulley however,the UP marking is on bottom?
can i just remove the timing belt and rotate the top pulley to the UP position?
might i add this job is a PITA.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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Re: top dead center question?
If you haven't removed the timing belt--just turn the crank one more turn and watch the marks on the cam gear.
DO NOT TURN THE CAM IF THE TIMING BELT IS OFF (unless you turn the crank 1/4 turn so no pistons are at TDC first--- or you will bend valves.)
If you are pulling the head off, it doesn't matter. You can right the cam timing before you put the head back on.
Hondas timing belts are easy.
DO NOT TURN THE CAM IF THE TIMING BELT IS OFF (unless you turn the crank 1/4 turn so no pistons are at TDC first--- or you will bend valves.)
If you are pulling the head off, it doesn't matter. You can right the cam timing before you put the head back on.
Hondas timing belts are easy.
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Rep Power: 0 Re: top dead center question?
If you haven't removed the timing belt--just turn the crank one more turn and watch the marks on the cam gear.
DO NOT TURN THE CAM IF THE TIMING BELT IS OFF (unless you turn the crank 1/4 turn so no pistons are at TDC first--- or you will bend valves.)
If you are pulling the head off, it doesn't matter. You can right the cam timing before you put the head back on.
Hondas timing belts are easy.
DO NOT TURN THE CAM IF THE TIMING BELT IS OFF (unless you turn the crank 1/4 turn so no pistons are at TDC first--- or you will bend valves.)
If you are pulling the head off, it doesn't matter. You can right the cam timing before you put the head back on.
Hondas timing belts are easy.
another question?the head bolts seem extremly tight on removal.the torque specs of 66ft/lbs isnt very much,they seem alot tighter than that?
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 517 Re: top dead center question?
Get 1/2 inch drive, lifetime guaranteed tools. A breaker bar about 3 feet long is a big help on head bolts.
The head bolts will be freekin' TIGHT.
It's normal.
Doesn't matter what they were originally torqued at, it takes a whole lot more torque to break them loose later on ("breakaway torque").
The head bolts will be freekin' TIGHT.
It's normal.
Doesn't matter what they were originally torqued at, it takes a whole lot more torque to break them loose later on ("breakaway torque").
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 517 Re: top dead center question?
It's just carbon buildup. Don't scrub the cylinder walls, you can scratch them. I don't do anything more than gently scrape the carbon off the tops of the pistons.
Was the engine overheated? Send the head to a machine shop, have them make sure the head is FLAT. Overheating warps the head. A warped head can't seal the new head gasket.
I use ONLY RAZOR BLADES (single edge) to scrape gasket residue from the block and head. Avoid scratching the surfaces where the gasket has to seal.
NO Scotchbrite pads.
NO Roloc gasket grinder discs.
Those leave grit that can wipe out bearings in a heartbeat.
I DO make every effort to remove all traces of spilled oil from the engines water jacket. I do not want any oil residue in the cooling system, it can rot hoses and rubber seals from the inside out.
Use an airgun and brake cleaner to remove ALL traces of liquid from the head bolt holes. You can ruin the head gasket job and even ruin the engine block if you don't do this!
Don't forget to change the oil a couple of times after you get it back together and running again. You don't want to be driving around with traces of antifreeze and other debris in the oil. I drain the oil only after the head gasket job and refill, then run it to operating temperature for a while and test drive for right around one mile (gently, no hot rodding it), then change oil and filter as soon as I get back in the shop. Cheap insurance.
Was the engine overheated? Send the head to a machine shop, have them make sure the head is FLAT. Overheating warps the head. A warped head can't seal the new head gasket.
I use ONLY RAZOR BLADES (single edge) to scrape gasket residue from the block and head. Avoid scratching the surfaces where the gasket has to seal.
NO Scotchbrite pads.
NO Roloc gasket grinder discs.
Those leave grit that can wipe out bearings in a heartbeat.
I DO make every effort to remove all traces of spilled oil from the engines water jacket. I do not want any oil residue in the cooling system, it can rot hoses and rubber seals from the inside out.
Use an airgun and brake cleaner to remove ALL traces of liquid from the head bolt holes. You can ruin the head gasket job and even ruin the engine block if you don't do this!
Don't forget to change the oil a couple of times after you get it back together and running again. You don't want to be driving around with traces of antifreeze and other debris in the oil. I drain the oil only after the head gasket job and refill, then run it to operating temperature for a while and test drive for right around one mile (gently, no hot rodding it), then change oil and filter as soon as I get back in the shop. Cheap insurance.
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