Rep Power: 0

Okay so my car use to overheat after long periods of driving so I replaced the head gasket and went ahead and got the head machined since it was already off. I also went ahead and replaced the timing belt and and the water pump. Now im having problems starting the car, it sort of chokes and I have to tap the gas numerous times to get the thing going, once its on I cant rev past 3500rpms it sort of jolts or shakes. The check engine light is also on. I've read around and I think my timing is off because before all this the car had no check engine light and ran and started up just fine. Any input please.

 
Rep Power: 511

$20 says you have a check engine light. get the code read and let us know what it is. Then we'll be able to help you out

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok will do im on my way to advance auto parts as I post, I have already cleaned my egr valve, I have replaced the vtec solenoid gasket, Ive cleaned the throttle body and everything around it and Ive also reset my ecu yet no luck. But I will post the codes as soon as I get them thank you.

 
Rep Power: 511

lol, I just now realized you said you had a check engine light.. reading > me

but yea, definitely hook us up with the code. With the job you just did, I'm willing to bet it's the crank position sensor located behind the lower timing cover.

 
Rep Power: 0

yeah thats exactly what came up p0304 Camshaft position sensor. Can this really be causing my car to only rev up 3500rpm? it seems to simple but yet its a bitch to replace. I'll keep you guys posted im picking one up tomorrow, I hope this gets my car out of limp mode and miraculously fix my starting problem. Has anyone else ever ran into this problem similar work?

 
Rep Power: 811

well the ecu is keeping the rpm at 3500 so you dont blow the motor. its a failsafe due to the cps being bad.

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok so I replaced the cps sensor, now I can rev past 3500rpm no problem, and the starting problem is gone. My check engine light was gone too until I was down the street from my house and out of nowhere it turned back on, im on my way to read the code now. I wonder what else it could be the car is running flawlessly.

 
Rep Power: 511

lol, good guess to me for the crankshaft position sensor.. My car did the same thing when I did my headgasket job: took forever to fire up, running in limp mode, running like crap.. yep. lol

Your new code may be another bad sensor or something. There are a handful of codes that will illuminate the CEL but will keep the car running normally. I know an ELD code (p1298), evap system code (like P1457), and catalytic converter code (P0420) won't affect performance.

 
Rep Power: 0

hello all, I'm new to civic forum and i don't have time to check-in often with ya'll so having a conversation wouldn't work well, but i figured i'd try to get a little input from someone with experience with problems about our honda's. i have an '03 ex sedan, man-tran, v-tec 130K mi. this problem hasn't given me any check engine codes and only happens for a few min and only like once a week or two.... while driving when my rpm's reach about 3,800 or so my engine will stop accelerating or if i take it out of gear and rev it then it still kick's back at about 3,800 rpm. and after a couple min it will go back to regular and i can accelerate and take it past 3,800. can this be like a glitch in the rev limiter? does my car even have a rev limiter? i'll try and check back with ur response in a few days, thanks.

 
Rep Power: 0

All i can say is try the basics, like resetting the ecu. If you have an code reader thingy (excuse my terminology its late) try reading the codes while its doing this and post on here and google them.

But as far as for me I got out of school too late today to go check the codes, got finals tomorrow. What I am wondering though is if it is another sensor problem or something stupid as I call it wouldnt it have show up when I first scanned for codes?

 
Rep Power: 511

You may have agitated something else while replacing the crank position sensor. That is a possibility. Replacing that sensor is quite intrusive. Chances are its an ELD code or evap system code. Get that code and let us know what that yields.

@Zander, you may have an intermittent problem somewhere. Check your oil. If your oil is (really) low, then it may cause a VTEC system malfunction, forcing your car into limp mode.

 
Rep Power: 0

lmao stupidest code ever p0401 something about not enough gas flow, turned out to be my egr valve, I cleaned the thing again even though I knew it was clean. Got my mechanic to clear the light and hasnt turned back on all day and ive been driving it nonstop since 10:30AM eastern time til probably 15mins ago. And not just nice slow driving but impound worthy driving, the machined head does make some difference as I was burning out from a dead stop, im A/T!!!! but anyways im glad I got no warning lights on the dash what so ever. Thanks you guys for all the input. Now I can focus on some cool diy you guys have like that cool projector retrofit, I got 05 passat projectors laying around somewhere lol.

 
Rep Power: 0

Hi guys, so im new to this site. I have a bone stock 05 LX special edition 4 door automatic with 125k. The car was in a front end accident not too long ago. About a week After the car got repaired it cut out while i was driving. Turns out my timing belt with 40k miles on it skipped and i needed a crank sensor. Got that all taken care of and about a month and half later now it wont rev over 3500 rpms in gear or neutral or park. Its like a rev limiter. And sometimes it will stall at idle. Also sometimes it starts right up and other times it will just sit and crank.
I had my girlfriend rev the engine while i put my hand in front of the exhaust. Flow seemed fine. Could this problem still be exhaust related or do you think its computer/sensor issue. Check engine light is on. Guy at autozone couldnt get a reading?????? Any help would be great. Im about to go disconnect the batt to reset the ecu and see what happens. I beleive my car is in "limp home mode"??

 
Rep Power: 517

Sounds like maybe someone didn't get the alternator mounting bolts tight when they had it all apart to redo the timing belt job. Hope that's all and it hasn't burned out the PCM yet....but.....may be too late if the PCM lost communication.

 
Rep Power: 0

Took the 05 to my mechanic this morning. Camshaft sensor. Alternator bolts?

 
Rep Power: 517

So someone was able to read the codes, that's great. Glad it was relatively straightforward.

Yeah, sorry. When a PCM burns up on one of these cars they tend to lose communication with a scantool.... You had said "Check engine light is on. Guy at autozone couldnt get a reading??????" so I kinda assumed the worst.
Loose alt hardware can burn out the PCM and it's such a common mistake there's a service information printed about it.