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its coming from the front passenger side.

i apply the brakes but there is no noise until just before coming to a complete stop.

should i get new brake pads?

 
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Edit: I would say you do. People often confuse regular brake squeaking for needing to be replaced. But if they are making a nails on chalkboard kind of noise, metal on metal, then yeah most likely you'll need them replaced.

Open it up and find out, it's super easy. You'll know for sure weather or not you need new ones.

Take the wheels off (if you do get new pads, you should just replace both anyways...) then just the one bolt at the bottom of the caliper, then the top half of the caliper will swing up. all you have to do is pull the pads out, and inspect. when you put it back together, don't forget some anti squeak grease on the caliper piston, and the back side of the pad. Also, you'll want to get a large C clamp if you don't already have one. You can use the c clamp to push the caliper piston back into the caliper. I'm sure there are a ton of DIY's on the net, and probably on here too. Search and ye will find!

Oh and um, last time I got Autozone pads, they emit tons and tons of brake dust. I don't think I'll buy them again. I got power stop brake pads from pep boys, haven't put them in but, they were more expensive, and the packaging and everything is way better!

 
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Time to get new pads from what it sounds.. I recommend Hawk pads.. soooo grippy

 
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how about you look at the pad?

 
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x2 on that one

 
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i gotta head to work in a little but ill see wut i can do about getting you a picture tomorrow.

 
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if its only squeaking on one side, and the pads are shot. probably want to look into getting a new caliper. it could be froze. look at both sides and compare wear.

 
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The feelers are bound to come through on one side before the other. He would know if the caliper was frozen, it pulls your car violently to that side, and sets your brakes on fire very quickly.

 
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no neccassarrily. if the caliper is frozen only slightly then the car would not pull that bad and the brakes wouldnt heat up extremely fast either. but if one side is still thick pads and the other side isnt, then it would be a frozen caliper.

 
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drive the car a bit on a road you know you wont have to stop. then let car gradually stop on its own and use the ebrake to stop you the rest of the way. empty parking lot may work too. carefully feel each rotor, they should be cool but if caliper is stuck, one may be very hot and burn you. youve been warned. if one is very hot, its a sticking caliper and needs to be fixed asap, and prolly replace both sides of pads.

 
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sounds like a slight metal rubbing right? if it is then its your brake pads.

 
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hmm...listen to two people argue who have a combo of 559 posts, or listen to to the single person who has over 33,500 posts and a nice big iTrader number and 'has a brilliant future...

(i agree with gearbox anyways)

but i would check the brake pad wear....just jack up the car and remove the wheel to take a look first, before getting into all the other technical stuff.

 
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Hey sounds like you need new pads, check them out. I have a similar problem I recently replaced my pads with brand new OEM's and after a few months had a horrible grinding sound.. metal on metal. Now I took a look nothing is rubbing but both of the back pads (the one touching the pistons) have huge cracks through them but the pads have a hell of a lot of meat left on them did I somehow get defective pads? If so will Honda take them back with no proof of purchase? Sorry to highjack thread but didnt want to make my own topic for something so similar.

 
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honda should have a record of them if you remember when you bought em like month and year. if it cracks, yeah defective

 
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No offense to anyone on here. and i agree gearbox is a very brilliant man. and yes he has more posts than me. but i dont think i should get shoved out of the way just because i dont have that many posts. im an ASE certified master tech. and i think i deserve a little more respect than that. sorry to fight on here.

 
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well youre smarter than me lol. im just garage mechanic no training

 
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Gearbox is da bomb, seriously. But posts mean nothing! For example, I have 1500 post and I don't know jack!!

 
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Im not saying im smarter than you gearbox, cuz you know a whole let more than i do. but i think somone shouldnt be judged on their knowledge by how many posts they have

 
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well other than a slight pull to the left it drives fairly straight when braking.

gonna delay it a day, park the car tonight and try swapping the pads tomorrow. it will be my first time on this car. i got my haynes manual.

would i be better off going to a honda dealer and buying honda brake pads? there is a VIP and an advanced auto right up the road.

i know i need to replace both in the front if replacing 1 pad. should i plan on doing the rear pads soon?

 
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^probably not, but is does depend on when they were last changed. the rears tend to last a lot longer than the fronts because they are not used as much during breaking.

 
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if you want it local, advance auto carries wagner pads which are very good, they come with the shim built in and they require no lube or anything. just throw it in. they are expensive, and i think they only come in ceramics. so if you want the oem semi metallics, just goto dealer. ceramic is quieter and less dust, but they dont stop as well as the semis

 
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my rear drums still have over 50% and i have 80k miles of mostly city driving. im on my third set of pads and second set of rotor. i think the first set of pads was like a trial size or something, cuase they barely lasted 20k miles. second set lasted around 40 or 50k miles.

 
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well the pads were shot indeed. enough so that the grinding sound was the rotor. the entire pad on one section was gone.

sorry no pics but i didnt have my cam on me when i popped them off.

haynes manual was pretty ****ing weak if you ask me, my friend was much more helpful.

i ended up getting the wagner ceramics, and i guess im gonna look into getting new routers from the front.

he suggest spending at least 50 at a local shop. wut do you guys think?

 
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rotors are cheap, maybe 20 for cheap ones or you can go with oems which are much better quality and dont rust as badly. or try to have the old ones resurfaced if possible.

 
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sorry to thread jack, but im having some metal on metal noises also. its not coming from the front because i only hear it from the rear. and it only happens when i barely start the car and brake for the first time to a complete stop. afterwards theres no noises and it drives like normal but it happens every single time i cold start the car and brake. any possible solutions? oh and btw i checked the rear pads and they look quite new...

 
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hm right now i get a squeal in going in reverse and then a squeak squeak squeak when going low speeds, so I'm suspecting the caliper pins needs some lubrication. My question to you guys is if I do decide to replace the front pads as well, how critical is it to get the front rotors machined?

 
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Change the pads with Hawk Pads.

 
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i have the same problem as yours... i still had 90% left on my brakes, but it makes a noise when i put on my beaks i hear metal to metal like noise until just before coming to a complete stop... it was the rotor. i had it machined and resurfaced. it solved the problem.

 
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you should get them machined after every brake pad change especially if they arent smooth on both sides of the rotor, you can mess up your new pads

 
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That's true, it can be really costly too if you dont