Rep Power: 279

Ok... I blew my HG. Built the motor with forged parts and ARP studs. Had a professional tune done at Philly Dyno. Had a new primary O2, new cat put in. Car passed state inspection.

Now I'm driving back from Philly (about a 1 hour drive) and the CEL comes on. It didn't come on on the way up... but the way back. Then it went away 3 days later. Was driving back from north Jersey 2 days after that (a 1.5 hour drive this time) and it came on again - this time on the way up. It has stayed on for 6 days since.

When I had the O2 put in about 2k miles ago... they said I had multiple codes for running a rich condition and misfires. They didn't tell me what the actual codes were though.

I hate this whole turbo thing... it's such a pain in the *** on a daily driver... it's fun as hell - but its getting old with the constant problems.

 
Rep Power: 252

what plugs are you using, and what are your timing maps like. Did you get a dyno printout that showes your A/F ratio

 
Rep Power: 424

If you're running a piggyback then it'll throw a code thats says something like "System too rich-Bank 1" Its because you're exceeding the system's ability to trim the fuel out. Narrowband O2 sensors cant read AFRs in the 11s where your car is probably tuned.
Simply put, ignore the damn thing.

 
Rep Power: 279

Well I was just told by Philly Dyno on the phone after I made this post that my plugs might be worn out at 6k miles... especially after running it pig-rich for awhile. They suggested I get new plugs and erase the codes and see what happens.

And boiler... that's exactly what it said and I AM running an e-manage. But I don't want some friggin' CEL!!! LOL. Short of getting an AEM or KPro or something... what would my options be?

 
Rep Power: 281

AEM F/IC or PCS XFC. I have the same problems with my camshaft. I can't get rid of this P0172 code (system too rich) and when I pull fuel I get misfire codes P0301-P0304. At least I know now that I'm not the only one.

 
Rep Power: 511

yea, the turbo thing is fun as hell, but all the problems I'm seeing other people have as well as my own, I'm thinking about taking the money I've been planning on spending to upgrade my turbo stuff and putting it toward a k20 swap fund..

 
Rep Power: 251

^^ not a bad idea. but with the power of a turbo i could take a few headaches to hear the sound of a bov !!!!!

 
Rep Power: 511

too bad the Navy doesn't pay me well enough to be able to deal with the headaches without cringing..

 
Rep Power: 0

So what is the actual code? Take it to autozone if you do not have a scanner.

 
Rep Power: 327

without the CEL code this post is pointless. And the only problems with a turbo is the lack of proper tuning/knowledge I average maybe 3-4 CEL's a year if that! And its usually in extreme weather cold or hot. I drive my car year round from 110 degree days to sub-zero. And otehr than a few CEL's over the years no issuse with the turbo. Just like anything else your turbo system is only as good as the weakest link. And in your case it sounds like the tune.

 
Rep Power: 350

All I keep hearing people say is "I can't afford a standalone". Seriously, if you can't afford to do it right the first time, why bother? Of course a piggyback is going to give you problems. That's why, in almost every post I see with people running setups with potential, I can't understand why you would shortcut on the MOST important part of the setup.... Seriously, ever since I've installed kpro, I haven't had a single issue relating to the ecu.

 
Rep Power: 281

Damn right Andy +100. I learned the hardway. I can say I've learned alot in the process though but its been an expensive lesson.

 
Rep Power: 327

And like i said many times before, piggy backs and standalones are only as good as the person using them

 
Rep Power: 279

Well... I have since noticed my car misfiring every now and then at idle a little bit now that I'm aware of it. I'm going to put in new spark plugs and see what happens.

And BTW Boilermaker1... MY Air/Fuel STARTS at 11 and goes up to 13... my dyno chart can display it. If you want I can send you the DynoJet file.

 
Rep Power: 252

I have zero cels on my car. As far as a p0172 code you just need to take out fuel on your idle. If you are throwing a code 9 out of 10 times its a tuning issue. If you are using the Emange run a trace on your maps while at idle and while driving...and make the corrections there. Use a one or 2 step colder plug either denso or ngk.

 
Rep Power: 252

WHOA did you say under boost your A/F is 13??

 
Rep Power: 252

Send me the dynojet file I have a dynojet here

 
Rep Power: 279

Here is the DynoJet chart:

 
Rep Power: 252

You are running way too lean in your upper RPMs danerously lean

 
Rep Power: 279

Should I just turn my boost down so I don't blow up?

 
Rep Power: 252

What injector size are you using. Also what PSI..if you turn your boost down you will need to tune it for that amount of boost.

 
Rep Power: 279

I have the RSX-S injectors and the rest of the fuel system is stock. It's tuned for 9psi. Unfortunately I don't know much about tuning - so I placed my trust in the shop. I said tune it safely - not for max power but rather for longevity and that's what they came up with.

Unfortunately I moved and can't find my GReddy cable for the E-Manage to try and adjust this myself now.

This pisses me off - I trust a place to know what they're doing and this happens. At least nothings destroyed yet.

 
Rep Power: 0

Lower the boost or get some better fuel delivery. From 5200+ RPMS, your injectors are maxxed.

 
Rep Power: 281

Just to be on the safe side until you find your cable do not drive at WOT (especially not in the upper RPMs). I have the cable and software if you need it. You are about an hour and a half from me.

 
Rep Power: 0

AMEN to that! Motec or whatever.......

 
Rep Power: 424

Someone halfass tuned that thing. Either they just gave up halfway through, or you're out of injector. You dont need to get into e-manage to turn the boost down.... just change the boost setting on the controller, unless you have a 9psi spring, in which case, swap it out for a weaker one.
The map reads up to 9psi (provided you have the greddy map sensor) but it can adjust to run less boost.
I cant believe someone let it out of the shop like that. Find another place to tune your car.... even if its out of injector, them not telling you that, or continuing to tune it even when they knew you were out of duty cycle, is just plain lazy and stupid.

 
Rep Power: 279

Well... I am using a manual BC... so I'll just turn it down to say what? My 6psi WG spring?

My biggest problem now is I have no money left to retune it. I had a certain amount saved up to fix my car enough to be safe to drive - as it's my only transportation. I guess at this point it's better to just turn it to the WG spring until I can save up for a retune. There are no shops within a huge distance of me that even tune imports.

 
Rep Power: 252

Logic if you want you can call here at the shop. I will try to help out as much as possible..if I can't now I will return the call as soon as I can.

BnT Performance 910-763-7978

 
Rep Power: 281

Turbotrix and 1320 motoring are within 2 hours drive of you man. Is that too far?

 
Rep Power: 279

It's not too far... it's too expensive. LOL