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This website doesn’t have a rollbar/cage write up so I decided to write one.

This is instructions for the 2dr coupe roll bar install. But before I begin this is for the Autopower 4point street rollbar Part number 61584, which may also work for other brands as well. This should take about 3 hours to install. Autopower has been in service for 30+ years and the great thing about their products is that they come painted black.

Step 1: Purchase the Rollbar. There are many places to order from, I went with www.safedrives.com because it was the cheapest and they had good reputation plus Charles has excellent customer service. (Shipping is paid to the freight company at delivery- you pay the sweaty man that delivers you the goods – my guy looked like Luigi from Mario brothers). This is the best time to check if everything’s there
Parts: - Rollbar
- (4) backing plates
- (12) short bolts (14mm)
- (2) long bolts (14mm)
- (25) nuts (14mm) yes theres an extra one
- (2) nuts+plastic ends (14mm these are for connecting the main hoop to the downtube)

Step 2 Gather Tools:
• Screwdriver (plus and minus)
• (2) 14 mm socket + wrench
• (1) Extension 1ft
• Scissor
• Sewing pin
• Small piece of 2x4 wood
• Drill + bits + 2inch hole bit
• Jack + Jackstands + 19mm+BreakerBar
• Loctite
• Cold Beverage
• Radio
• A friend: not someone with wimpy arms and zero car knowledge


Step 3: Remove seats: There are four 14mm bolts on each seat, the front two needs the extension. Note: Do not pull seat out just yet. Remove the airbag and seatbelt clips, there are two under the seat. Now proceed to remove the seat and repeat on other side.

Rears: Fold down the top portion and slide the left portion to the right it comes right off. The right portion comes off either sliding it right or left. For the bottom there’s one 14 mm bolt once removed then just lift.
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Step 4: Remove Panels: There is one Philips screw, and a bunch of clips holding it in place. The gray pillars in the back pop them off it should be very easy.



Step 5: Break Time: you should be tired by now.


Step 6: Tar: pull carpet up and begin removing tarring materials from the floor. I used a hammer to it and it came off really easily. Note: hit it lightly or else you will have a floor that looks like mines. Vacuum the lose particles or you can throw them like ninja stars.


Step 7: Get a buddy: Grab your friend (if that person is a high maintenance girl forget about it, go at it alone, and save yourself listening to complaining, nagging and whining!).

Step 8: Installing the Rollbar: Bring the main hoop and down tubes into the car. Bolt them together with the long bolts and nuts (with the plastic on them)(it only goes in one way)

Step 9: Positioning it in: This is where it gets tricky and frustrating. Now that you have the main hoop connected to the downtubes, move the rollbar to the rear. It’s a pretty tight fit. The only way to get the mounting plates past the hump where the front seats connect on the back, requires you to push upwards towards the roof and then back. Don’t apply too much pressure to the roof or else the sunroof track may warp. At this point you should be sweaty, tired and have cussed up a storm. Apologize later.


Step 9.5: Jackup car, place jackstands, and remove rear wheels.

Step 10: Drilling and bolting: This step is very important that you keep the mounting plates flat and flush on their respective surfaces on each of the four sides. Drill 1: using the hole on the mounting plate as a guide, drill through the floorboard on the passenger side and then place a bolt through it, do not drill the immediate hole next to it. Drill 2: proceed to the driver side and do the same as Drill 1. Drill 3+4: Now go over to the wheel well and do the same, one on each side. At this point you should have 1 hole and 1 bolt on each of the mounting plates. Now you can repeat until all holes are drilled and bolted down. This ensures that you will have the best fit possible. It would suck big time if you drilled and bolted down the front two to discover that the wheel well mounting plates are not sitting flush. Use my pictures for reference:







Bolt it down: backing plates go on outside of the car and 2 nuts per bolt, I used loctite on the bolts so that it wouldn’t come loose down the road. This can be purchased at home depot and other fine stores. Have a friend give you a hand to hold the ratchet from inside while you tighten from outside, you’ll need an extension for the person inside the car.






Step 11: Carpet cutting: Before you continue, this job is a bit sketchy. I folded the carpet on the floor of the bar and used a sewing pin through where I approximated the center of the bar would be.





Bring out the drill and 2 inch hole bit. If you use a slow drill it will pull your carpet in a knot. So use a high speed drill, period. Get a piece of wood as a flat surface to drill on. Helpful Tip: When drilling the carpet, start an inch away from the surface to get the drill at top speed. Do a couple practice drills on your neighbors carpet first before yours =).





Then do the same process for the removable carpet.




Your DONE! Done deal
What you get: Is a tight fit, a tight chassis, tighter turning, and I love it.

 
Rep Power: 289

Sweeeet. I want one of those. Did you leave your rear seat panels out?

 
Rep Power: 273

nice roll bar..... do you really feel the difference?

nice mr potatoe head . i got a monokoro boo on mine. lol

http://www.tokyo-dome.co.jp/shop/takara/image/boo1.jpg

 
Rep Power: 306

do you do any racing with your car or did you install the rollbar for show?

 
Rep Power: 306

dooode!! i have been trying to find the name of that pig thing for a long time now!! like i saw a flash on newgrounds with the pig in it, and one of the comments said they had a site that sold them! and he never replied to me..

 
Rep Power: 0

I left the panels out because I didnt know what to do with it. As for the rollbar I don't do any racing, but It feels incredibly stiffer.