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I want to put a turbo in my car (2004 EX - manual) but i am confused about the ignition timing? With running so little boost do i really have to get and emanage to tune the timing or could i tune just the air/fuel with V-AFC-II and a set of RSX injectors? I have searched and found no answers please help. thanks for your time.

 
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Invest in a good fuel management system bc you'll end up spending money on it anyway when your car isn't running properly bc you wanted to save money. Besides emanage is not that much more expensive then a VAFC. I know a couple members selling all harnesses included with emanage for about 300 bucks or so just shop around buddy.

 
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cant go cheap if you want to go FI. you pay to play.

 
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Thanks for the info guys

 
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yeah, you could spend less now but it will cost you more in the end. Just do it right the first time...

 
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I think Force Induction or anything to do with engine or suspension is nothing to go cheap on. . . unless its a expensive cheap part

 
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i am at 5psi right now untuned. i have my emanage and k20 injectors awaiting install this weekend though. i been running untuned for 2 months and its been fine. just make sure you get a turbo timer or let yoru car cool down because i think that is wat kills the engine/turbo the most, not letting it cool down.

 
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Running untuned will kill your engine faster. You better get your tune in there. Yes the rsx injectors will run alot more fuel to feed the extra air from the turbo. I even tested this on the dyno with a sniffer and wideband. But when you increase the boost and start heading towards the higher rpms you need to be tuned. DO it right the first time or your going to end up buying bearings and a new crank like me.

 
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If all I wanted was 5 psi, I wouldn't bother doing any management mods. My a/f's don't even drop into the 12-11 range until I hit about 7-10 psi anyways.

 
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if your going to boost do it once and get the right parts from the start. Especially fuel related, for example the TSI turbo kit with two injectors is great for that 5 psi and lower which is not much but anything above and e-manage or AEM ems for future plans of boost

Andy we can't use you as an example just because all the work you have done, IE: pistons, IM, Equal length etc..

 
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Thanks for the info. also if i run 5psi with RSX injectors and a V-AFC 2 do i need to change my timing? thanks again

 
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True story, I wouldn't even waste my time or money for just 5psi.

 
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You don't need to change your timing....hell, that is what knock sensors are for

 
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In that case what PSI do you need to start adjusting timing?

 
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PSI don't mean anything, it is just a number to impress your friends. It is all about whp. You really don't need to start messing with timing unless you are making at least 100whp over stock.

 
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really from what i have read on the trubo faq you need to adjust it at any psi

 
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Ok, here's the deal. If you are only bolting on a small t25/t28 turbo, you can run 5 psi with no management mods and be fine. However, you will not make the same amount of power that you would with a good management system. The better the management, the more power you will make.

For example, on 5 psi, you might make 150 whp with a smaller turbo. Get an aem (even with stock injectors) and you'll pull around 120 whp n/a with no mods at all (AEM did it). Then bolt on the turbo and boost 5 psi and get another good 40-50 whp on top of that. How do you think there have been some of us pulling 200 whp on 5-6 psi? In every case I would recommend getting standalone, just for the simple fact that it manages the system so much better and allows for higher hp numbers much safer. So save yourself trouble and time and just pick up the aem with some good srt 4 injectors or any older b/d series injectors with a d16y8 intake manifold.

 
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thanks for all the info

 
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That's probably the most true statement ever. I love people who are like, MAN 45 psiiii sweeeeet

 
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I am also interested in doing something very similar to this. What all pieces would ya'll recommend for 200 or so whp since you say it does not need to be managed?

 
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I think that you would need an emange for 200whp or the AEM EMS

 
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Did you read any of the posts at all in this thread? For real? If you say you did, go back and reread.

 
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I was referring to the whole setup, if boost controllers, timers, etc are recommended as well, but thanks for being a dick.

 
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Dude, you specifically stated that you didn't need management for 200 whp.....which was clearly covered already...

 
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Alright.

 
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with out management your going to have lean spots. the primary o2 is what would recognize this since the map cant read boost. its still unsafe to run any FI system with out at least fuel management. the probelm you will run in to with using a vafcII and rsx injectors is you cant take enough fuel out at idle. so you will run rich at idle. besides that with low boost you should be fine using a vafcII and larger injectors.

 
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Not ture, the oem honda map will read 10-11 gpsi.

 
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how is that its only a 2 bar map?? i have heard that some 2 bar maps will recognize boost but i dont quite understand how that is possible.

 
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Well it isn't actually a 2 bar map. If it was a 2 bar, it could read around 14.5 gpsi.
The thing is, if people wanted to run up to 10 psi, they could with no check valves or missing link without a problem. For those curious, you can even try it. Just pull out whatever you have bleeding manifold pressure and make sure your boost level is set at 10 psi or less. Make a pull and see what happens. The ecu should be fine. Of course it depends on the tune and how the management is set up but that's how it works...
I honestly don't know what the stock ecu does as far as fuel and ignition, being as I've never tried to tune off of the stock map though.
My buddy put an edelbrock kit on his y8 and tuned for 10 psi with neptune on the stock map and ran great. Now he wants more power so to run more boost he has to have a new map made for reading boost but the stock one is fine for where he is now.

 
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arent all maps 2 bar unless otherwise stated liek 3 bar maps. because there is a positive pressure in the manifold under throttle. which is why it needs to be able to read pressure. i am going to do some more research and actually find out the answer to this. ill be back!!