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D17 Into a 98 EK

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Old Jul 30, 2006
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Exclamation D17 Into a 98 EK

Hey i was wondering how easy it would be to slap a d17 into my 98 ek in place of the original d16
i know wat most of you are thinking.. wow thats a useless swap but ive come across this engine and its really cheap i think 800 for engine and tranny
i normally wouldnt consider such a swap but my d16 has 235k on it and the tranny is starting to show it with less that smooth as butter shifts..

any advice on whether this swap is easy and worth it?
any quick advice would be appreciated i am not going to be around for very long thx.
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Old Jul 30, 2006
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for the price to you it may be worth it.....but i've never seen or heard of anyone doing a d17 swap other than just with the transmission and that dude probably never did it....that guy from purtorico that claimed DC5-r kills w/ just exhaust he had a d17 motor and said he was using a d16 transmission of some sort
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Old Jul 30, 2006
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yea it will work but its not to easy your gona have to treat it perty much just like a h swap new shift linkage..mounts..axles..ect..ect..
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Old Jul 30, 2006
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just get a new d16 dude... they're pretty cheap...
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Old Jul 30, 2006
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uhm I guess nobody knows how to do the swap yet
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Old Jul 30, 2006
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do it man
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Old Jul 31, 2006
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dood why dont you get a b16. there cheap.
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Old Jul 31, 2006
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Old Jul 31, 2006
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i got a b20 for $565. youll need a tranny shift linkage and axles but it would be just about as expensive as the d series swap. just go "B"!! LOL
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Old Jul 31, 2006
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hey family, whats your b series in?
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Old Jul 31, 2006
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96 teg ls
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Old Jul 31, 2006
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Originally Posted by familycar
96 teg ls
very nice! so you have a car with real power. lol thats nice!
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Old Jul 31, 2006
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Originally Posted by exturbo6
very nice! so you have a car with real power. lol thats nice!
ya after driving the teg i get in the vic and its seems like a total slug. LOL!! and its not like i dont have mods on the d17 its just a pig when N/A! i also have the old b18b in my garage that is waiting a full rebuild. i want to push about 600+whp. if you ever read DSPORT magazine i fell in love with their project EG. that was what i originally wanted but i couldnt find one in good condition for the right price so i went with the dc2 instead. not long after i bought it the cel came on and i had a misfire in cyl 1-3 and intake temps were 152*. figured out it was drinking a quart of oil a week and i only drive about 50-100 miles a week. fried piston rings and a burnt valve in cyl 1-3 caused the problems. so i got the b20 for $565 swapped it in over the weekend and was driving it by sunday morning LOL. now i have the spare b18 to start my build... its going to take a while but it will be well worth it to see some 11sec slips on street tires. goal after all is said and done is low 10- high 9 sec passes driving to and from the track!!!
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Old Jul 31, 2006
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I thought the way the D17 "spins" has something to do with it...

I dont think you can do it...

YET.
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Old Jul 31, 2006
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Originally Posted by 02BLKCIVIC
I thought the way the D17 "spins" has something to do with it...

I dont think you can do it...

YET.
rotation of the crank shouldnt matter considering youll have to swap the ecu and the whole wiring harness

that is exactly why i say just b swap it. ther are adaptor harnesses that will plug n play with your current harness rather than having to rewire the whole car.

Last edited by familycar; Jul 31, 2006 at 06:37 PM.
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Old Jul 31, 2006
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d16's go for like 200-300 here...
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Old Aug 1, 2006
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Originally Posted by familycar
ya after driving the teg i get in the vic and its seems like a total slug. LOL!! and its not like i dont have mods on the d17 its just a pig when N/A! i also have the old b18b in my garage that is waiting a full rebuild. i want to push about 600+whp. if you ever read DSPORT magazine i fell in love with their project EG. that was what i originally wanted but i couldnt find one in good condition for the right price so i went with the dc2 instead. not long after i bought it the cel came on and i had a misfire in cyl 1-3 and intake temps were 152*. figured out it was drinking a quart of oil a week and i only drive about 50-100 miles a week. fried piston rings and a burnt valve in cyl 1-3 caused the problems. so i got the b20 for $565 swapped it in over the weekend and was driving it by sunday morning LOL. now i have the spare b18 to start my build... its going to take a while but it will be well worth it to see some 11sec slips on street tires. goal after all is said and done is low 10- high 9 sec passes driving to and from the track!!!
yeah i saw the thread you had about the new car you got. the black civic. that will be sweet...i c you didnt waste anytime doign the swap. lol...honda prob made our car slow so we can boost them and not do NA. lol they are pretty slow but when i was modding i had some pretty nice runs with some si's. only lost to a gsr by half a car. but they are still slow. good luck on your build.

i still think you should get a b16. i wouldnt waste time with a d-series..if i could go back in my car i would. yeah k20 are sweet, more or less same thing k is newer. but you can still kick *** in a b. and for 1200 bucks you cant go wrong. so much more potential in a B then a D.

Last edited by exturbo6; Aug 1, 2006 at 06:35 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Aug 2, 2006
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Originally Posted by 02BLKCIVIC
I thought the way the D17 "spins" has something to do with it...

I dont think you can do it...

YET.
D's, B's and H's all spin in "reverse".

800 bucks for a D17 sounds like way to much. You ought to be able to pick up a running B18B or B20 for about that, not to mention D16s are equally as dime a dozen. It definitely wouldn't be worth doing all the cable shifting swapping stuff just for an extra 3 lb-ft of torque.
The mounts are different too, it would be far easier to stick with a 1.6, or get a B, or if the tranny is the problem, just buy another tranny.
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Old Aug 2, 2006
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My friend is looking for d16y8 and they are not as cheap as people think. A lot of them go for around 800-900 without tranny. And also it's hard to find one with low milage because they are so old now.
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Old Aug 2, 2006
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I was about to do the swap too...

since i did my k-swap, i've had a d17 sitting in my garage since then. I was thinking of buying an EK with lots of km's and just dropping the motor in. I'll get the car for cheap, plus i'd have a motor with less km..
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Old Aug 2, 2006
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theres a guy on the sitre selling a d17a2 with tranny complete for 300
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Old Aug 4, 2006
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Make it easy, dont drop the whole motor in. Use the d17 lower end and oil pump, it fits perfect. All you'd need to do is rewire the crank sensor plug for the d17 one. Other things you'd need are the balancer pulley, lower timing belt pulley, and the crank sensor. While you are at it replace the timing belt and water pump.
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Old Aug 4, 2006
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Originally Posted by 02fpcivic
Make it easy, dont drop the whole motor in. Use the d17 lower end and oil pump, it fits perfect. All you'd need to do is rewire the crank sensor plug for the d17 one. Other things you'd need are the balancer pulley, lower timing belt pulley, and the crank sensor. While you are at it replace the timing belt and water pump.
i dont think you can mate a d17 bottom end and d16 top end......
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Old Aug 4, 2006
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not the block but the whole rotating assembly fits in perfectly. I have swapped em before they spec out perfect.
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Old Aug 4, 2006
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^^i'm confused.....
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Old Aug 4, 2006
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Originally Posted by Boilermaker1
800 bucks for a D17 sounds like way to much.
I've saw d17 and tranny sell for $150 CAN.... so your more than correct. And undesired/ unmarketable motor should be priced by the weight of the scrap metal if you ask me.
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Old Aug 5, 2006
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Originally Posted by tuningmycivic
^^i'm confused.....
The deck height is approximatly the same, the d17 and 16 main journals are exatcly the same. The oil pump bolt paterns are the same. Its basically like stroking the d16 .1 liter. Trust me it works, hehe.
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