Rep Power: 276

im expecting to receive my roll of raammat by the end of the week. id like to know any tips in advance before i start this small project? ill be Deadning & Ensolite the front 2 doors, trunk lid, portion of rear quarter panels, and maybe the spare well cargo if any leftovers.

 
Rep Power: 0

I've found denatured alcohol to be the best degreaser for pre-application cleaning. You want the tightest possible contact between the adhesive and the panels you are damping - avoid air bubbles and press firmly into all curves and creases. If you get an air bubble, slit it with a knife and press the air out.

Don't use pieces larger than yo8u can handle easily. The stuff is very sticky. Cut a piece, peel back about an inch of the release paper and press the exposed adhesive against the surface. Peel and press. Peel and press.

It can help to mark the holes that the trim clips came out of with a small piece of colored tape or a magic marker. You don't want to mat over the holes and you want to leave enough clearance around the edges for the trim to fit back on. Sucks to have to tear out mat and foam.

You generally want to use a sprray contact adhesive to attach the foam to the mat. If you bought RAAM's spray, that's what you got. Second Skin has a similar product and 3M Hi-Strength 90 is the same. All three of these spray in Web pattern, giving you a lot of control. You want to spray BOTH surfaces, wait about a minute for the adhesive to tack and then press the foam into place. Spraying both sides can be difficult in tight spaces like the doors. In this situation, spray more adhesive than usual on the foam. Immediately press it into place and immediately pull it off. This will spread the adhesive to both surfaces. Wait a minute and press back in place.

Aluminum flashing (roofing department at Home Depot) works very well for sealing the access holes in the doors.

 
Rep Power: 276

thanks rudy.

the deadner came in the mail last night and started working the trunk right away. i filled in the gaps on the trunk lid and did a full 1 piece layer over it again. this was my first time working with deadner and it took me approx. 4 hrs. its not the best job though. if you see any spots i should deaden, please let me know

heres some pics:




should i also deaden the trunk hinges?




my trunk still rattles/vibrates though on certain bass lines but it was surely reduced

 
Rep Power: 0

I think there are only two possibilities - 1) the vibrations/rattles aren't coming from the trunk lid or 2) the sealed in support ribs are vibrating against the trunk lid.

2) won't make you happy. To fix it you will have to get back in and get something between the ribs and the lid - either some expanding foam or just stuff enough closed cell foam in the gaps to keep them apart.

If that isn't the problem, there are many possibilities and you have to find out what is rattling. Everything from license plate to tail light to lock mechanism to wires are possibilities. The vertical sheet metal panels in the trunk are other candidates.

 
Rep Power: 0

have you tryed the diy trunk latch thing making a tighter air tight trunk it worked for me and does that ramat stuff come in diff colors? or something