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Alright after much debating, I figured for my wants and needs that I would like a D17A2 that will push about 350whp. Now I know that I will need a whole shitload of mods to push the 15-17 PSI that I want to push, but I'm new to Turbo builds and want to know the specifics of what to do. Any help would be appreciated.

 
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complete engine build sleaves, pistons, rods, etc.. boost cam, rework the head, new valvetrain, maybe a custom crank, t4 turbo AEM EMS, and probably more than 17psi. good luck.

 
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a k20a3 swap sleaved with about 14 psi

 
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Nah u dont need sleeves.
t3/t4 w/charge pipes, waste gate, manifold, boost controller, DP etc.
wideband a/f gauge
egt gauge
oil temp and pressure gauge
water temp gauge
pistons
head studs
rods
rod bolts
rod bearings
aem ems
notched block
some other minor block work
intake manifold custom or wait for dezods
return fuel rail
vacuum manifold
clutch
large injectors
walbro fuel pump
fuel pressure regulator
good tuner, real good
maybe get the crank balanced and finished
new bearings
maybe trans rebuild, or at least prepare for one cause on bearing is very weak
block guard with holes, but you may not even need that
If you can do the build your self it will prob cost like 6-7 grand, but if you are resourceful you cut cut that down
talk to turboengnr or andyman

 
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yeah lots of cash^^^^ thats what youll need

 
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Good ****, I appreciate the response. You guys have been a big help. Thankfully I'll atleast have some cash to spend when I get the f*ck out of Iraq...

 
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Rebuild or strengthed tranny
Custom axels, probably stage 3

 
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How much are the stock ones?

 
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^^
I've heard stock axels become unreliable after 200-225 whp, but this is what these boards say.

 
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I meant priceLOL
n/m

 
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long story short, go get yourself a spare d17 block. do all the work you can yourself. change any part that moves in the motor for performance parts. save some money. work alot. good luck.

 
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well put

 
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whoever said u dont need sleeves?????? ur nuts, ur engine will last maybe 5 times of hitting 17+ psi. have u looked at the thickness of a d17 block cylinder wall. if u dont beef up every moving part something will break. my axles were 425. if u dont have a the AEM EMS, ull never get to that WHP

 
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you dont need sleeves for around three hundred-350 and you dont need ems for those high numbers
you prob should but you do not have to

I definely think that 350 is some where very close to the linet hough, and I would prob not go quite that far

 
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not a B series or a K series.

we got people on here with a stock block and a EMS making 245. add another 100 and tell me how ur going to get there without a fully built engine AND without the EMS

 
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not to be a d*ck but either swap it for a k20 or buy a fast car to begin with.

 
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No, you slightly misunderstood me. I was a little ambiguous.
With the ems and an a good tuner you could prob get around 300-350 with everything I mentioned, no upgraded sleeves.
With emanaage you would need beefed up sleeves and 350 would be attainable.

We will soon find out, wanna make a little wager.

 
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not monetary literally, bc i could care less about someone elses results other than my own

 
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we think alot alike...

 
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plain and simple if you spend 6-7k on your engine and dont buy sleeves then your a moron.......

 
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much cheaper, but less reliable.
just do some head work and a new valvetrain, then boost to 14psi on a really really good tune, and youll be good. and to make up for the power difference between 14 and 17... do some mods like lightweight flywheel, 6 puck clutch, light rims, smaller stickier tires,

 
Rep Power: 350

I am not installing sleeves. Waste of money if you aren't going over 400+ whp. It is extremely unlikely (I won't say impossible) that you will make 300 or more with emanage, the thing can't control anything bigger than a set of 330's without triggering a check engine light, I know from experience. Return line and fpr are completely unnecessary but the AEM is pretty much a must. For those that think an emanage can get you to that power lever, I'd love to hear an explanation of how......

For reasons such as these, it makes me wish I had a stock motor to push 300 whp on to prove it can be done without breaking internals. I think people are still failing to realize how important tuning is. And 15-17 psi is not going to get you 350 whp, it's going to take alot more than that (depending on the turbo) but for one that is in a 1.7L efficiency range, it's going to be more in the ballpark of 20-23 psi, I will let you know how much psig it takes when I get there.

 
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I agree with andyman here... i've built many v8's both carb and F.I. (just starting to get into mods for my civic). From my experience you can buy $100's or even $1000's on building a motor, but tuning plays an almost even bigger part. I could spend a year building a block and balancing a rotating assembally, put it together, fire it up push 650 hp, then realize the wrong jet was in the carb and jump to 750.

Tuning is the key to any modification, if your wanting to get 300- 350whp out of a 1.7 do it right and tune it

 
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someone give me 10k so i can fvckin do it...

 
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and for 20-23 psi ull have to have them sleeves. otherwise ur going to blow a hole in the side of a cylinder

 
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That isn't true, bro. A friend on my team who is now in Vegas is pulling low 12's on his z6 with stock sleeves with only pistons and rods on neptune. He's dyno'd around 355 (on the same turbo I am running) with Neptune. He's been running that much for about 4 months. Before that, he was making about 300 on the same setup (different turbo) for well over a year. That's just one example, but there are alot of sohc guys making that power.

 
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z6 is NOT 1.7 litre motor. and its NOT a 4 banger...its apples and oranges.
EDIT i thought you were talking about a chevy z06. lol. sorry. i see you mean d16z6. ok. again my apologies.

 
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dam props for all of you sticking with the d17. to me the only motor harder to mod is the 8thgencivics.