CEL came on after a 50 shot spray
CEL came on after a 50 shot spray
What could have happened here? I started spraying in 2nd around 3500-4000 and I went through 3rd and part of 4th still spraying. After I let off and turned the system off, I noticed the CEL was on. I got to my friends house and disconnected my battery for about 30 seconds and reconnected it and it went away. I drove it down the road then later back home and it never came back on. I'm wondering if the fuel pressuse might have dropped enough to trigger the light. Is this a possibilty? What about the primary O2, could that cause it? My car is fine now, but it's got me wanting to go back to the 35 shot, but I want to keep running the 50 shot.
GEARBOX: I'm running "what I think" is colder plugs. They're Autolite copper plugs. I'm running 93 octane gas. Is this ok? How could that cause the cel to come on?
SUTHRNINCA: How long do you hold the 50 shot when you use it? Have you held it as long as I described above?
SUTHRNINCA: How long do you hold the 50 shot when you use it? Have you held it as long as I described above?
Last edited by speedster; Dec 10, 2005 at 09:26 PM.
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 51,241
Likes: 20
From: NV
Rep Power: 812 
next time have an auto place read the code. it could be low fuel pressure, overheating, too lean, etc. who knows. obviously it went away later cause there's no permanent problem...yet.
What n2o kit do u have?
I had an edelbrock universal wet kit, and the fuel jetting was way too rich. When I sprayed, my engine CEL'd for misfires and too rich O2 sensor. Once I changed to a smaller fuel jet all was fine.
If u can, get it dyno tuned w/ a wideband O2. Failing that, try reading the plugs but you'll have to get the codes like gearbox said to really know.
I had an edelbrock universal wet kit, and the fuel jetting was way too rich. When I sprayed, my engine CEL'd for misfires and too rich O2 sensor. Once I changed to a smaller fuel jet all was fine.
If u can, get it dyno tuned w/ a wideband O2. Failing that, try reading the plugs but you'll have to get the codes like gearbox said to really know.
Well, I put a header on a little while back. I installed the O2 sensor thing that blocks the cel from coming on. I put it on the secondary sensor. It's been working fine, so if it was running rich, the cel blocker thing wouldn't allow the light to come on, right? I'm running an NOS brand universal wet kit.
Pull ur plugs and look at them. Let us know what they look like.
Do you have a catalytic converter still or just a straight pipe?
Mine has come on before too even has shut down the car twice at the end of the race. I think the codes i got were Primary cat o2 sensor and rich A/f.
Do you have a catalytic converter still or just a straight pipe?
Mine has come on before too even has shut down the car twice at the end of the race. I think the codes i got were Primary cat o2 sensor and rich A/f.
I checked the plugs right before this happened. The plugs were clean, but were a little wet at the top of the threads. Could this be my problem? No, I don't have a cat anymore. My car is an LX. I put a Kamikaze header on it. I'll be getting an A/F ratio meter very soon (Defi D gauge). This should help me out. I guess I'll get a code scanner today. Looks like I'll be needing one. So, am I correct to think the primary O2 sensor can trip the CEL?
Last edited by speedster; Dec 11, 2005 at 07:02 AM.
Ok, I was reading in the instructions and it says to try and keep a bottle PSI of 900 or so. I bet that's my problem because I don't have a bottle heater and it was pretty cold last night. This would make the nitrous not flow as well, right? Wouldn't this cause a rich condition?
Registered!!
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 69
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From: Spokane
Rep Power: 0 
Dude... please get rid of the Autolite plugs... run some NGK or Denso... or even Bosch. Imports do not run that well off of Autolites... with the exception of Chrysler products. Run what comes in it stock or better, not worse. As for your MIL light, your on the right track... sounds like A/F problem that the computer cannot compensate for. I have the same NOS universal FI Wet kit and just bumped it up to 75 shot with no problems. Although the first time I hit the button I was waiting for stuff to come apart. The dyno numbers were worth it though and made for a tight dvd. When you get the code please post your findings.
I've got some Bosche Platinums. Are these ok to run? If not, tell me the exact plugs to get and i'll get them. I want to do this right. I've got an a/f ratio gauge and a nitrous pressure gauge on it's way and I'll soon get a bottle heater. I checked the codes a few minutes ago, but it showed "no codes". If it pops up again, I'll check it and post it up.
If your not at 900 Psi you are running rich guaranteed.
NEVER use platinums. Go to a place that sells NGK plugs and get brk7e-11 or bkr7e-11 plugs (I forget exactly how it is). They are $12 for four and have worked great for alot of people on here.
NEVER use platinums. Go to a place that sells NGK plugs and get brk7e-11 or bkr7e-11 plugs (I forget exactly how it is). They are $12 for four and have worked great for alot of people on here.
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Houma, Louisiana
Rep Power: 305 [QUOTE=speedster]I've got an a/f ratio gauge and a nitrous pressure gauge on it's way and I'll soon get a bottle heater.[QUOTE]
I hope you are getting a wideband or else it will just be a fancy light show.
I hope you are getting a wideband or else it will just be a fancy light show.
The a/f gauge I'm getting is an actual gauge, not the little lights. It's a Defi D gauge. I believe it's the kind you're talking about. It comes with everything needed to hook it up. I gave $112 for it off ebay brand new.
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Boise, Idaho
Rep Power: 327 Im not POSSITIVE, but im betting thats a narrow band guage and useless!
Originally Posted by speedster
The a/f gauge I'm getting is an actual gauge, not the little lights. It's a Defi D gauge. I believe it's the kind you're talking about. It comes with everything needed to hook it up. I gave $112 for it off ebay brand new.
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