HP Race Header Questions
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HP Race Header Questions
ok i searched and couldnt really find an answer...i have an 03 ex 5 speed and was wondering if there were any fitment issues with the HP race header that comes with a hi flow cat...and i found one at true honda for 280 shipped but it was chrome...anyone have any experience with the chrome one...thanks any help is greatly appreciated
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Well since I first went that header route I'll say you didn't search really good.. first off, Edward (Truehonda) gave a link to a DIY guide in one of his older posts.. in that post it explains some of the difficulties: http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...hp+race+header
Basically, you will probably have mounting issues which will either lead to a) decimating your motor mount to fit (not a great idea) or b) lifting your engine off its mount to install the header then reattaching everything (slightly longer procedure)
Hopefully that is all your issues with it .. as I assume it would be going onto an EM2 rather than an ES1 like myself
Basically, you will probably have mounting issues which will either lead to a) decimating your motor mount to fit (not a great idea) or b) lifting your engine off its mount to install the header then reattaching everything (slightly longer procedure)
Hopefully that is all your issues with it .. as I assume it would be going onto an EM2 rather than an ES1 like myself
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From: so cal djmota=oscar
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Originally Posted by se7engen_riDe
^ hmm...too much hassle tryin to instal a little header.
chrome is the only way I have seen them supplied. the install is a pain but not that bad. You may have some rubbing/rattling against the front part of the subframe (some people have described this problem before. I have not run into it) . to fix it they grinded down on the sub frame a bit. < no it does not effect anything.
I have the header installed. Yes, i does take longer to install than most do. But the gains from it are worth the hassle. Instead of cutting the mount as described in the DIY, I supported the front of the engine with a jack, then removed the mount. Then you have to fit test the header, and decide on what needs to be ground down. Keep in mind that you can raise the mount a bit to gain a little extra clearance, but not much. Once thats done, then pull the header thru, and support it while you bolt the mount back on. Then install the header. I got some slight vibration at first, so then I installed a set of Energy Suspension mount inserts, which stiffened the mount and added a little more clearance. It took me about 3 hours total to get the initial installation done.
it comes with what they call a "high flow cat". In actuallity, its only a resonator tube. As it says in the description of the product, for off-road use only. I installed the "cat", but didn't like the high pitched sound that was the product of it. So I ended up installing a modified stock cat to cut the sound, but still get good air flow. The sound is a very deep rumble with my Apexi N1 exhaust. You definetly notice an increase in throttle response and acceleration. IMHO, it was worth the trouble. Also, it does come with an O2 Simulator, but the directions are sketchy at best. I ended up getting a Casper Electronics (https://www.casperselectronics.com/M...ory_Code=honda) O2 simulator. Instead of cutting wires, it plugs into your stock connectors, getting rid of the headache of installing that.
Last edited by Wizkid; Aug 8, 2005 at 04:16 PM.
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Originally Posted by jttegx
race header = best bolted on mod for the d17 powerplant IMO. preferably the 4-2-1 design.
Unless your setting up a nitrous system header is a waste of money.
Think about it you can spend atleast a couple of g's on a N/A d17 and never reach the 150whp mark, and you can spend a couple of gs on a turbo system and have atleast 150whp. OR you can run nitrous, but that is really only for strait line so it is very limited, but your getting more bang for buck then N/A by far, but it is more for someone who goes to the track. I am not trying to hate on you, they do look nice, but you are not getting any real power out of them unless you spray nitrous or spend atleast a couple of grand for alot of other upgrades that are not bolt ons.
Think about it you can spend atleast a couple of g's on a N/A d17 and never reach the 150whp mark, and you can spend a couple of gs on a turbo system and have atleast 150whp. OR you can run nitrous, but that is really only for strait line so it is very limited, but your getting more bang for buck then N/A by far, but it is more for someone who goes to the track. I am not trying to hate on you, they do look nice, but you are not getting any real power out of them unless you spray nitrous or spend atleast a couple of grand for alot of other upgrades that are not bolt ons.
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Rep Power: 0 im pretty sure thats not what i asked...like i have the money to spend and thats what i want to do to MY car...i know its difficult but thats the route i wanna go...so if u dont want to answer my question then dont post anything
All right, well you think you can spare some, cause im a little low of cash, if you just gonna throw it away.
It takes atleast 3-4 grand to get 150 whp N/A, and if you acomplish that i will give you my first born.
Why not go FI?
I know that nitrous is limited, but why not go with turbo?
If you are worried about daily driving and willing to spend so much money you could get the aem ems, and have her running like a champ.
Could not help my self
It takes atleast 3-4 grand to get 150 whp N/A, and if you acomplish that i will give you my first born.
Why not go FI?
I know that nitrous is limited, but why not go with turbo?
If you are worried about daily driving and willing to spend so much money you could get the aem ems, and have her running like a champ.
Could not help my self
. . . The Master Debater . . .
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Originally Posted by midnightblueciv
i pretty sure the race header has more then 1-2 hps...dont be a hater
Originally Posted by jackburton
intake, headers, exhaust, and tunning <15hp
I am a realist, not a hater!
I am a realist, not a hater!
Originally Posted by jackburton
Try me, autocross, maybe?
Race class?
Pride of having something original, and rare?
Fathers last words were naturally aspirated?
Race class?
Pride of having something original, and rare?
Fathers last words were naturally aspirated?
In case you forgot what he said, i will post it for you again.
He said, "my goal for my car is to push it as far as it will go without spraying or forced induction."
I had so much to say to you jackass, but its not worth my time to talk to someone as hard headed as you are.
I am just curious why he does not want to turbo and why his goal is what it is.
I never called anybody any names, or anything like that.
What can't i understand, what you think your better than me?
I listed reasons one might want to go N/A on the d17 are these why your goal is what it is, c'mon enlighten me.
I never called anybody any names, or anything like that.
What can't i understand, what you think your better than me?
I listed reasons one might want to go N/A on the d17 are these why your goal is what it is, c'mon enlighten me.
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Rep Power: 0 sorry to cut in on your thread....I put on the HP race header and it was sitting directly on my sub-frame so I had them remove it. Now I hear about these energy motor mounts that prevent that from happening. Where do I get these motor mounts and how hard are they to install?
With the aem ems, you can have a perfectly reliable car, just as any highpower N/A
Sure it is cheap and inexpensive, but in the end you will need a turbo on a d17 to make any considerable power anyway. No reason not to start with one on low boost and then build internals, progressivly uping boost. Cutting corners is sometimes a good way to go cause there is alot of value in it, cheeap and inexpensive is not always bad IMO. I do not understand why you would want something slower and more expensive VS. cheaper faster. With 180 whp turbo, head studs, and aem ems d17 you will be just or even more reliable as <150whp N/A d17.
Sure it is cheap and inexpensive, but in the end you will need a turbo on a d17 to make any considerable power anyway. No reason not to start with one on low boost and then build internals, progressivly uping boost. Cutting corners is sometimes a good way to go cause there is alot of value in it, cheeap and inexpensive is not always bad IMO. I do not understand why you would want something slower and more expensive VS. cheaper faster. With 180 whp turbo, head studs, and aem ems d17 you will be just or even more reliable as <150whp N/A d17.
Wait a minute, you said money was no object and you would spend as much money as possible to get fast N/A. You then say you do not want turbo because it is easy and cheap, but you could have expensive turbo kit if you wanted?
So the only reason i can think of is the fact that you wanna do something challenging, and making the17 a N/A pwerhouse is because it is near the impossible mark, so you kinda like a rebel.
So the only reason i can think of is the fact that you wanna do something challenging, and making the17 a N/A pwerhouse is because it is near the impossible mark, so you kinda like a rebel.
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From: so cal djmota=oscar
Rep Power: 323 jeez just let it go man. He has a different opinion then you. The thread and question was about the HP header, not What do YOU want me to do?
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From: so cal djmota=oscar
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Originally Posted by scizod
sorry to cut in on your thread....I put on the HP race header and it was sitting directly on my sub-frame so I had them remove it. Now I hear about these energy motor mounts that prevent that from happening. Where do I get these motor mounts and how hard are they to install?
