Rep Power: 283

So I did the ex to lx head swap with the Crower stage 2 NA cam, springs/retainers, and vafc. At stock idle (780) my car wants to cut off...bad. Now when i use the idler screw to adjust the idle the ECU keeps fukin with it trying to reset it back to factory. so I want it at 1200rpm...if i set it to 1500 then it goes from 15-1000 back and forth till it dropps back to stock. If i take it to 2k it will stay but that is a damn high idle...just wondering if anyone else had this problem and how did you adjust the idle for the cam and get it to be stable.

Thanx in advance

 
Rep Power: 0

hopefully this will help http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=168120 but I'm not sure. It's a DIY for idle adjustment from gearbox some guy was using it to change his idle b/c the TB was not getting enough air to sustain the idle RPM

 
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I don't know about making it stable, to high feels like crap and to low feels like crap, supposedly you can get a check engine light if it's over 800 or so. Might wanna just keep trying to make it smooth, don't really have a good answer for ya.

 
Rep Power: 0

have you tried calling crower and see if they have a solution for this? I mean they did make the product.

 
Rep Power: 364

sounds like you have a vacuum leak?

 
Rep Power: 283

Not a vacume leak....had one right after the head was put on and idle was like 3300....If i loosen the idle screw it will go back to 780---stock....right now I got it at 2100 ish. Still will fluctuate from time to time +-500rpm. Doubt Crower knows how to fix this...thinkin EMS is the only way out. And Yeah I scanned for codes today and I am getting idle adjustment malfunction. Using the idler screw...think it is just have a high idle till I can get AEM in.

 
Rep Power: 364

fluctuating idle is also a sign of a vacuum leak ...

did you take off the intake manifold or throttle body? ... are all hoses connected?

exactly which code is it?

 
Rep Power: 283

p0500 idle system malfunction.....checked all the hoses twice when it was put back on...twice today...sigh...somebody go adjust their idle screw past 1k and see if it sits still...PLEASE.....and yeah took off the inkate manifold and tapped it for the ZEX direct port kit...those are drum tight tho.

 
Rep Power: 0

It's not going up and down all the time right, that would be TPS or vacum.

Might wanna check your motor mounts, those can make idle feel rough.

Maybe you need to do a valve adjutment or check it.

Till then, just try to get it smooth, 2100 is way to high, ****, you can probably let the clutch out a chirp the tires and drive away, ha ha.

 
Rep Power: 324

Put your idle screw back to where it was. reset the ecu, start it and let it idle for 10 minutes.DON"T MESS WITH IT! It should find idle at around 7-800 rpm if it fluctuates from 2000-800 then you have a vacume leak. Then drive it around. After I put on my bored throttle body I noticed that when I let off the throttle the idle would stop at 1k for a second then go to 7-800. this occurred less and less while i drove around. Try it out. Hopefully it fixes your problem. On a foot note there are other things that can cause this wierdness.... you did adjust your valve lash after the cam install right? Also cam timing has to be dead on. if not there will be all sorts of problems with running funny you should double check your cam timing crank tdc and cam tdc should match perfectly. good luck! I will be installing the same thing on friday. I'll check back on your progress.

 
Rep Power: 364

^ yeah that ... also turn your car off before touching the gas pedal after you've waited 10 minutes.

btw ... you may have put your intake manifold gasket in incorrectly ... or not at all, which can make a reason why your idle is messed up

 
Rep Power: 813

um yea did you reset the ecu? Could be a simple fix. Otherwise play with the idle screw slowly while the engine is running. It shouldn't go back down.

 
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Just out of curiousity did you check your spark plugs?

 
Rep Power: 283

Brand new ZEX plugs

For those who care I took it to a local tuner today and got some help/dyno time. Aparently it was dumping in WAY to much fuel....runnin Vafc 2 @-29 at 1000rpm now had it at -4 when i got it there. Looked at the short term fuel maps and it was trying to remove 30% fuel at idle. Got the long term map to 4.5ish....timing is killing me now but I got a cam gear and EMS comming....only got 109hp 104tq best run (talk about sad) cause my timing is so screwed...still over 5hp, 4tq more than when I showed up there...tuner said he bets there is about 25-35hp that can be gained by adjusting timing...will have EMS/cam gear tuned by 19th so I will let you guys know. Just for anyone going to buy the Crower NA Cam...you NEED a Camgear (stage 1 or 2)...and also the only to tune idle right is with the ems, stock ecu will always be fighting vafc/emanage no matter what...at stock idle it is hella rough, wanting to cut off. Something I learned i thought I should pass along.

 
Rep Power: 813

thanks for the info

 
Rep Power: 324

pretty much the same story here.I am going to put my expierience in other parts so more people will be aware of what stage 2 entails. Good luck bro and post your expierience on the thread in other parts. its time

 
Rep Power: 298

What kind of EMS are you getting??

 
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what cam gear you guys recommend?

 
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aem ems is only for MT right? everywhere ive seen it its only for fukn MT i hate my lx.... i should blow my car up. and get a subby!