Neuspeed rear sway bar HELP
I recived my neuspeed rear sway bar this morning. so i decided to install it, i removed the mounting bolt's and disconnected the end link's from the factory sway bar and removed lower controll arm bolt's. i was getting ready to install the mounting plate to the sub frame, i inserted the bolt with the washer then threw the plate then the spacer. i can not get the holes to line up, i can't get the bolt's in so i got a big problem. i tryed prying on the controll arm but no good. Maby i'm not prying in the right place, some one please help
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You need a jack and a rubber mallet. YEah a pic would help. Whenever taking out control arm bolts, always prop them up so they don't fall out.
The controll arm did fall out but i got them back into place. When i put mounting plate into place and inseret bolts with washers threw mounting plate therw spacer then threw controll arm housing then threw controll arm then it won't line up with the rear hole on the controll arm housing thats the hole that has the threds. i do have picks but my pc i use to get the picks from my camra is not working, and i dont know how to do it any way.
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gosh, i kept thinking "what the hell did you THROW down there?" you are trying to say "THROUGH," it was so confusing reading your posts lol
anyway, can you get either side on or do both sides not fit at all?
anyway, can you get either side on or do both sides not fit at all?
boths sides left and right side. I think if i take a pry bar and pry the back on fht controll arm it will line up fine. I looked at the directions neuspeed supplyed they show a pry bar at the back side of the controll are their prying twards the trunk, i think the will raise the rear of the tie bar hole up so i can get the bolt into the thred's.
Do you have the tires off? That makes it much easier.
If you can get the first side started, have a buddy grab the rear brake rotor, and lift/push, and wiggle it around, all the while you're pushing in on the bolt.
I've always had very good luck with that method on other Honda/Acura LCA's.
Or, get the bolt started, and use a jack to compress the suspension on that side. That, coupled with a nice pry bar to wiggle the inner LCA can get the job done.
Be safe, and make sure the car is on solid jackstands!
If you can get the first side started, have a buddy grab the rear brake rotor, and lift/push, and wiggle it around, all the while you're pushing in on the bolt.
I've always had very good luck with that method on other Honda/Acura LCA's.
Or, get the bolt started, and use a jack to compress the suspension on that side. That, coupled with a nice pry bar to wiggle the inner LCA can get the job done.
Be safe, and make sure the car is on solid jackstands!
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seriously, post up a pic so we can help you out.
maybe its just me, but i am kinda confused on what the exact problem is, other than the vague holes don't line up.
maybe its just me, but i am kinda confused on what the exact problem is, other than the vague holes don't line up.
I used a pry bar and that did not work i raised and lowered the brake drum like you said, and got the bolt started and used a jack to compress suspension nothing worked so after ab 2 hrs i was looking at the factory bolt's and i noticed that the have a taper on them, the supplied bolts did not so i ground a taper on the bolt's. I inserted the bolts as far as i could and hit them with a dead blow hammer and it went in like butter. Got both blot's in and tightened but not all the way finshed instulation lowered car on ground torked botls to right ft pound's test drove it handles much better thanks for all the help.
the civic factory bolt's have the taper on them but the won't work with the neuspeed mounting plate cause the to short. Neuspeed controll arm bolts do not have a taper on them it's impossiable to get them in i tryed for hrs grind a taper on them and thell go in with no problem.
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