Boosting Again (3rd times a charm)Update3/30/05
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Boosting Again (3rd times a charm)Update3/30/05
yeah, i know...been there twice, but this time i am doing it right...ever since i took off my turbo kit, i have hated my car, and kinda gotten out of the car scene, but the urge is back, i cant stand it...you cant hide what you really love...i am going to boost my civic again, except this time it will be after i get my other block back from being built...i have it ready to be shipped out for bore and hone, sleeves, pistons and rods, and i am going to do a mild pnp on the head...in the meantime while that is getting done, i am going to be fabbin up my manifold, if i dont get the SFP mani from SLP....i already have the return fuel conversion so i am now looking for some type-s injectors(if you have some to sell, hit me up...)will be tuning with the emanage since that seems to be the best way for use right now...
sorry for the absence....
here are couple of pics of block during dismantlement....
sorry for the absence....
here are couple of pics of block during dismantlement....
Last edited by jwcardy; Mar 30, 2005 at 08:08 PM.
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big numbers is what i am going for nathan, and the weakest link will be the tranny, and we both know that Qua can handle that for me, he is the best...
DONT PANIC
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i have an extra motor. I would have sold it to you about a week ago, but on monday i noticed a little excessive blow by (F***in rising rate fuel system POS!). So now im building it up.
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Originally Posted by EternalBlue_Vic
What can i say? I'm jealous! 
I'm still stuck trying to find a spare d17a2

I'm still stuck trying to find a spare d17a2
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i got a spare block.. well actually an entire engine that i bought from Nate (squirrelcivic) its not assembled tho.. i was gonna build it but priorities ahve changed now that i have a child on the way. hit me with a pm we can discuss it.
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Originally Posted by aellerman
what happened the first 2 times you boosted? and what fuel management were you using?
First time was with the SF kit...I waited for them to build it, longer than it was on my car...i never should have sold it, but i sold it to build a custom kit. Built the custom kit and it was nice, but i couldnt even tune it good enough street wise to drive it....really rough idle and stuff like that, and all it turned out to be was my map sensor wire was shorting out on another wire....but it was too late after i firgured that out, i already had most of the stuff sold...so now i am doing it again
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Originally Posted by SquirrelCivic
yeah khoa can make that tranny indistructable.
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Update on everything guys. Block is going out end of next week to Earl from Honda-tech to recieve a Benson machine and sleeve job...we are just waiting on the pistons and rods to get here. he said right now it is about a 3week turnaround...
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well, i havent really thought about that to much cause it will all depend on tuning...i have been talking back and forth with earl from HT over the past couple of days, and we have discussed the setup that i plan to go with, and he 17-20lbs easily, but again, that will come with proper tuning..personally, i would just like to see 275 to the wheels
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Originally Posted by Alex1
whos khoa? i need my tranny to be indestructible, or atleast withstand 300hp. hook me up! lol
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Good luck with the build I saw you respond on earl's thread on hond-tech and i was wondering if it was you. What numbers are you hoping for? How much psi you gonna run any race gas?
good luck, yea i've noticed that one boosted civics the motor can take the beating, but the tranny just goes after a while. At least that was the case with me and some other members, with proper tuning i hope you'll be near 275whp, if the transmission can unleash it all lol
welcome back man.
Words of caution on your block build up
Make sure to have the crank,pistons and rods on hand at the machine shop.
When using thicker rods they won't clear the walls of the block.
Notches have to be cut out with a Dremel or similar tool.
The only way to check is to losely install the crack rod & piston assembly and check the clearance.
Get the crank drive on the block honed it tents to bend with all the pressure applied when the slevees are install.
Find all the ARP bolts and studs throught out your engine including the head to block and the head studs that bolt on to the turbo manifold.
they willl brake with time from all the torque from the turbo.
just my .02
best wishes man and good luck
Words of caution on your block build up
Make sure to have the crank,pistons and rods on hand at the machine shop.
When using thicker rods they won't clear the walls of the block.
Notches have to be cut out with a Dremel or similar tool.
The only way to check is to losely install the crack rod & piston assembly and check the clearance.
Get the crank drive on the block honed it tents to bend with all the pressure applied when the slevees are install.
Find all the ARP bolts and studs throught out your engine including the head to block and the head studs that bolt on to the turbo manifold.
they willl brake with time from all the torque from the turbo.
just my .02
best wishes man and good luck
Last edited by Supermex; Apr 3, 2005 at 09:35 PM.
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[QUOTE=Supermex]welcome back man.
Words of caution on your block build up
Make sure to have the crank,pistons and rods on hand at the machine shop.
Sending it to Earl on honda tech and Benson is doing the sleeve job...he said that he only need one piston for the final bore size.
Get the crank drive on the block honed it tents to bend with all the pressure applied when the slevees are install.
Earl said that this is not a problem for him, that there is not need to have the crank drive honed. he said that that comes with inexperience. (not bashing or anything, that is just what he told me)
QUOTE]
Words of caution on your block build up
Make sure to have the crank,pistons and rods on hand at the machine shop.
Sending it to Earl on honda tech and Benson is doing the sleeve job...he said that he only need one piston for the final bore size.
Get the crank drive on the block honed it tents to bend with all the pressure applied when the slevees are install.
Earl said that this is not a problem for him, that there is not need to have the crank drive honed. he said that that comes with inexperience. (not bashing or anything, that is just what he told me)
QUOTE]
[QUOTE=jwcardy] Is all good man just trying to help
I wasn't refering to the piston to sleeve clearance but rod to sleeve,
You see as the cranck is rotating it moves the rod and piston up and down but with the thicker rod such Crowers it hits the bottom of the sleeve on ether side as it tries to go up and down.
Unfortunately the only way to tell is when the entire bottom end is assembled.
Having the crank drive honed is a good sense precautionary meassure you don't want to have that problem later and the cost is relatively low.
I paid good money to have experience ppl do the work in my car but I supervised the entire project and saw all this set backs first hand.
I woudn't want see anyone here have the same problems .
Originally Posted by Supermex
welcome back man.
Words of caution on your block build up
Make sure to have the crank,pistons and rods on hand at the machine shop.
Sending it to Earl on honda tech and Benson is doing the sleeve job...he said that he only need one piston for the final bore size.
Get the crank drive on the block honed it tents to bend with all the pressure applied when the slevees are install.
Earl said that this is not a problem for him, that there is not need to have the crank drive honed. he said that that comes with inexperience. (not bashing or anything, that is just what he told me)
QUOTE]
Words of caution on your block build up
Make sure to have the crank,pistons and rods on hand at the machine shop.
Sending it to Earl on honda tech and Benson is doing the sleeve job...he said that he only need one piston for the final bore size.
Get the crank drive on the block honed it tents to bend with all the pressure applied when the slevees are install.
Earl said that this is not a problem for him, that there is not need to have the crank drive honed. he said that that comes with inexperience. (not bashing or anything, that is just what he told me)
QUOTE]
I wasn't refering to the piston to sleeve clearance but rod to sleeve,
You see as the cranck is rotating it moves the rod and piston up and down but with the thicker rod such Crowers it hits the bottom of the sleeve on ether side as it tries to go up and down.
Unfortunately the only way to tell is when the entire bottom end is assembled.
Having the crank drive honed is a good sense precautionary meassure you don't want to have that problem later and the cost is relatively low.
I paid good money to have experience ppl do the work in my car but I supervised the entire project and saw all this set backs first hand.
I woudn't want see anyone here have the same problems .
Last edited by Supermex; Apr 4, 2005 at 08:37 PM.
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yeah, i understand, i am just going by what earl was telling me, and i didnt mean to make it sound like your guys are inexperienced. sorry if it came out that way. i just told him your situation, and that is what he told me...i asked if i would need to do that with the benson sleeves, and he told me know...i appreciate your help very much, i have paid close attention to all of your threads
Originally Posted by jwcardy
yeah, i understand, i am just going by what earl was telling me, and i didnt mean to make it sound like your guys are inexperienced. sorry if it came out that way. i just told him your situation, and that is what he told me...i asked if i would need to do that with the benson sleeves, and he told me know...i appreciate your help very much, i have paid close attention to all of your threads




