Rep Power: 786

Something I have been trying to figure out for the past couple of days is what is the biggest amp (highest current draw) that I could have in my system with a stock alternator?

The reason I ask is that I might soon be putting a large (specific amp to be revealed at a later date) 1700 WRMS amp in my trunk (this is only at 2 ohms mind you). Figuring about 80% efficiency, the MAX current draw should be about 171 amps at 13.8 volts. I imagine I would never see anywhere near that peak, but what are some opinions on whether or not I might encounter any problems? I don't plan on cranking the **** out of it for daily driving, but I am curious either way. My battery of course is NOT stock but my alternator is.

So, what are some opinions?

 
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my tsunami db1100 killed my stock battery and my alt. has a hard time keeping up, i had dimming liek crazy before it blew. that amp is only 600 more watts, so i think if you have a good battery, it would work, if it is for comps the local shop told me a second battery would power almost anything i need

 
Rep Power: 320

if i had $ i'd definitly for for an isolator and optima yellow prolly size 34 or something huge...

 
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I'm not planning on competing with this amp, the season is over for now. Come next year I will be competitive again but by then hopefully I will have a bigger alt.

With my upgraded battery I noticed a HUGE difference with my old amp, almost no dimming. For daily driving, I don't see why it would be any worse, I'm not going to play it louder just because the amp is bigger.

 
Rep Power: 320

but once my stock dies im'a put a bigger one to replace it..

 
Rep Power: 786

$ is limited for me at the moment

If I had it I would put in a custom 200 amp alternator

 
Rep Power: 320

my 1 farad cap is enuf to keep my headlights from dimming, I've only seen em dim maybe once and even then it wasnt much..

 
Rep Power: 320

my old car I had a new alt put in, had to do custom work to it n **** damn it was cool no dimming no probs, only thing is, it was just the alt the tested the batt and said it was fine, and it wasnt performance... if i have $ once i put a bigger bat in, i might go back to the same place and have em do a new alt ..

 
Rep Power: 786

I would loooooooooooove a new alt

It's gonna be my next investment

 
Rep Power: 320

my old car was a concorde new alt cost me almost $500, cause they had to do custom work n stuff, but I have bookmarked websites that sell alts for like $250 or so i think and im sure they wont charge much if its a direct replacement..

http://www.4alterstart.com/pages/sto...putalternators <<< looks easy enuf to DIY, but i think i'll still take it in seeing as if i fvck that up, everything will get fawked.. :P

edit: oh, its $300...damn

 
Rep Power: 320

actually i dont ever blast my system enuf to need a new alt, i think batt will b plenty once the time comes..

 
Rep Power: 786

That's a really nice alt, I'd buy it, or perhaps pay a bit more for a stinger 200 amp

 
Rep Power: 0

have you thought about just getting your stock alt. rewound for higher output? I live in a small town and we have 2 or 3 shops here that do that for a decent price.

 
Rep Power: 320

how much is a stinger 200? stock = 90 right? if it = 90, or the website said it is 75.. either way 150 is plenty for my needs..

 
Rep Power: 320

I always thought u had to just replace em I didnt even know u could do such a thing

 
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yep, i had my camaro one redont a while ago

 
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much cheaper.
PS i've got a US Amps 2000x not bridged and it still sucks down the juice. But thats a US amp for ya.

 
Rep Power: 786

What do I do in the meantime? I need my alt!!

I've thought about it but I still don't have any money and nothing to drive while the job is getting done

 
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they should be able to do it relatively quickly. You do not have a 2nd vehicle or access to a friend or familly member's vehicle on a temporary basis?

 
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well i do, but in case they dont get it done in one day i am screwed.. having my car is pretty important to me

 
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lazy @ss just walk lol. But seriously call around now while it's daytime and ask how long. They may be able to get you in and get it done in a day if you schedule it.

 
Rep Power: 786

walk!??!?!? whats that

how much does a rewind cost

 
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dont remember that was a few yrs back. i think it was like $85 and i got an extra 30-40 amps out of it.

 
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I'm looking for like... 150-200a

 
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just ask around. maybe they can go that big. i dunno but its alot cheaper than a new one. calling around would be faster than askin me

 
Rep Power: 786

faster but not as easier, soooooo.........

 
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i think one of the best places is MrAlternator.com if you're looking at new. If you're looking at a rewind try like a Napa or something along that line.

 
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rewinds are bad because as current flow increases, so does heat. your alternator was designed to dissipate only a certain amount of heat. its like building a 1000 watt amp with a heatsink only designed to dissipate the heat from a 500 watt amp, only alternators dont have protection circuits.

as to max power:

I, personally, have run upwards of 2kw's rms, but not for a prolonged period of time (1600 of class D, 800 of a/b)
I did however do 1300 of class D and 700 of a/b for over a year, with absolutely no problems.
I know whiterabbit has done over 2 kw's of a/b with a second battery.

out of curiosity, arent you in street class?
to my knowledge you aren't even allowed to turn the car on, so for competition purposes, unless you upgrade to super street, an alternator is useless. for daily driving, i'd personally invest in a sealed battery for the trunk, and id definitely upgrade your alternator wire. stock honda wires blow ***.

for the current install im putting together, im gonna do a pair of optima's in the trunk with a stinger 200 amp relay.

 
Rep Power: 337

most ive done is 1500 rms at full crank wtih no need for a new alternator.

car gets real unhealthy, especially combined with another 1500 rms class a/b for mids and highs.

and once a blue moon, the battery cna die. like stop and go traffic with constant high volume playing, eventually hit a stop, **** up and dump the clutch stall, but the battery is dead. that kind of thing.

beefing up the E system isnt neccesary, to this day Im running a stock alternator with 1100 rms of class a/b bass. But for situations like this even ive finally decided to do other E-system work. batteries on isolators, caps, stuff like that depending on what Im trying to improve performance of.

but the alternator is literally the last thing I would do to beef the E-ssytem, given a choice.

 
Rep Power: 328

I'm running 1000 classD and 500 a/b and I have no alternator problems, just an upgraded battery. Even my grounds and power wires are stock.