i'm now boosted... but i need heeeeeeeeeeeeeeellllppppp!!!
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Balut Eating Champ
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i'm now boosted... but i need heeeeeeeeeeeeeeellllppppp!!!
EDIT---31 AUG 04--- 2:08
--well I guess the fluttering on the BOV is normal since it's still untuned!
--I wanted to buy me a new boost gauge coz i thought the boost gauge is fuked up! so will it really matter if I get the autometer cobalt gauge with just boost or the gauge with boost and vac?
--is there any other places besides FACTOREXENGINEERING here in Las Vegas that I can bring my ride to dyno tune and not charge me 350per hour
--if you guys know a place in south cali, arizona or any place closest to las vegas for dyno tuning that doesn't charge 350per hour please let me know!
Last edited by pnoyster2k1cvic; Aug 31, 2004 at 04:09 PM.
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From: Medford,OR
Rep Power: 0 First thing I would do is take that SF FMI and check it ALLLLLLLLLLL, that kit had sooooo many problems when I was installing it on IMPORTRACERs car, it was just rediculous. If you have the money, save yourself the trouble later and replace that fuel pump now. its a piece of junk. you can get a HOlley Red at any parts store for under 100 bucks. Check all your fittings, etc, I think we had 3 stripped fittings and one cracked one. The fact that this is on a 500 dollar FUEL system really worries me.
Ok I got some pics here to help you, this should answer everything you needed to know.
For the fuel system it goes like this.......by the way, dont forget to depressurize the system first, AKA open gas door, and release pressure from the schraeder on the fuel rail.
Assuming it came hooked up already like Importracers did, all you need to do is this.....grab the two fuel lines that come off the wall, the LOWER of the two, remove the line that goes to the fuel rail completely.Then remove BOTH the little green clips that held the hose onto each line. Take a chunk of fuel line and run it from the port on the fuel system thats facing the passanger side of the car, and run it over to the fuel line on the firewall. slide the line over the two little "bumps" and put two hose clamps on it, like it shows in the pics. Make sure each hose clamp is on the side of the bumps that goes down the firewall. The pics should explain that well enough. Then if you look at the number 2 in the picture, that line is going to go up to your fuel rail. This too will need 2 hose clamps. Keep in mind this is a VERY POORLY designed setup done by SF, so take time to make sure these clamps are tight and in the right place.
Heres is a pic showing the line running onto the fuel rail.
ok on to the second part. you will tap into the LEFT SCREW on the block, just like this. I would also suggest running a relay, apparently importracers was supposed to come witht hat and some other wiring, but of course it didnt come with ANY of it, so he had to purchase that as well. If you need help with the relay let me know.
3rd question, I will answer as best I can, hopefully the pics help.
Number 1 marks the sensor, Tap into this sensor on the throttle body. Its the one RIGHT near the MAP sensor where you should be putting your boost isolator. you will see a line that runs from the fuel rail to this sensor, on the other side there is a vaccum hose. Undo that hose, and put a "T" fitting (PICTURES NUMBER 2) in there to tap into it. Make sure your throttle cable isnt interfering With the stock vacuum hose that goes at the other end of the T fitting (the black line running off the T fitting). Number 3 marks your boost line. If you are using diferent fittings than this, its still all the same, just may look a little different.
Number 1 runs to the blow off valve, number 2 runs to the wastegate or boost controller Number 3 is the boost input line, its connected to the sensor you tapped into before. Number 4 goes to the fuel pressure regulator (the blue thing on the fuel system) dont pay attention to number 5
It doesnt matter which line goes where when it comes off that T, they will all work no matter which port they are in. If you have more questions, or need more pics or more detials, just let me know. Also if you run into trouble on the install, give me a call, I will PM you my number.
Ok I got some pics here to help you, this should answer everything you needed to know.
For the fuel system it goes like this.......by the way, dont forget to depressurize the system first, AKA open gas door, and release pressure from the schraeder on the fuel rail.
Assuming it came hooked up already like Importracers did, all you need to do is this.....grab the two fuel lines that come off the wall, the LOWER of the two, remove the line that goes to the fuel rail completely.Then remove BOTH the little green clips that held the hose onto each line. Take a chunk of fuel line and run it from the port on the fuel system thats facing the passanger side of the car, and run it over to the fuel line on the firewall. slide the line over the two little "bumps" and put two hose clamps on it, like it shows in the pics. Make sure each hose clamp is on the side of the bumps that goes down the firewall. The pics should explain that well enough. Then if you look at the number 2 in the picture, that line is going to go up to your fuel rail. This too will need 2 hose clamps. Keep in mind this is a VERY POORLY designed setup done by SF, so take time to make sure these clamps are tight and in the right place.
Heres is a pic showing the line running onto the fuel rail.
ok on to the second part. you will tap into the LEFT SCREW on the block, just like this. I would also suggest running a relay, apparently importracers was supposed to come witht hat and some other wiring, but of course it didnt come with ANY of it, so he had to purchase that as well. If you need help with the relay let me know.
3rd question, I will answer as best I can, hopefully the pics help.
Number 1 marks the sensor, Tap into this sensor on the throttle body. Its the one RIGHT near the MAP sensor where you should be putting your boost isolator. you will see a line that runs from the fuel rail to this sensor, on the other side there is a vaccum hose. Undo that hose, and put a "T" fitting (PICTURES NUMBER 2) in there to tap into it. Make sure your throttle cable isnt interfering With the stock vacuum hose that goes at the other end of the T fitting (the black line running off the T fitting). Number 3 marks your boost line. If you are using diferent fittings than this, its still all the same, just may look a little different.
Number 1 runs to the blow off valve, number 2 runs to the wastegate or boost controller Number 3 is the boost input line, its connected to the sensor you tapped into before. Number 4 goes to the fuel pressure regulator (the blue thing on the fuel system) dont pay attention to number 5
It doesnt matter which line goes where when it comes off that T, they will all work no matter which port they are in. If you have more questions, or need more pics or more detials, just let me know. Also if you run into trouble on the install, give me a call, I will PM you my number.
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From: Dallas, PA
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i suggest not using that relay. I had one fail on me when i was running 9psi.
Just run the power on the fuel pump to a 12volt switch power. I used the green/yellow wire in ur cig lighter.
Just run the power on the fuel pump to a 12volt switch power. I used the green/yellow wire in ur cig lighter.
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Dallas, PA
Rep Power: 607 For the T fitting, i tapped into the vaccum line behind the map sensor and ran one to the bov, another to the FMU and another to my boost controller.
Then on the turbo, u need to run a vaccum line from the compressor housing to the wastegate actuator.
Then on the turbo, u need to run a vaccum line from the compressor housing to the wastegate actuator.
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Balut Eating Champ
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Rep Power: 0 much appreciated guys the info's awesome!!!
I got the turbo installed but of course it is untuned so it's runnin on half *** performance... but I can allready feel the pull, and definite a straight through piping... coz I can't even feel thump on my muffler anymore
I got the turbo installed but of course it is untuned so it's runnin on half *** performance... but I can allready feel the pull, and definite a straight through piping... coz I can't even feel thump on my muffler anymore
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From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 for that flutter sound you were talking about from the bov... it's just not tuned enough... if it's an HKS, then screw in the back bolt (10mm) a lot, almost all the way, and see how it performs.
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Balut Eating Champ
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Originally Posted by MadWheel
for that flutter sound you were talking about from the bov... it's just not tuned enough... if it's an HKS, then screw in the back bolt (10mm) a lot, almost all the way, and see how it performs.
I thought it was the coming off of that TB heat sensor or something, coz it got this rubber and I have to stick that plastic in... i just thought It was that...
I also doubled/trippled check all the lines yesterday and the weird fluttering sound is still there, but not as strong...
I turned the boost controller 3 complete turns from -0 boost... is that too much boost? coz my boost gauge is not even workin
I check the lines and everythin and everythings connected properly tightened... 
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From: Hickville, NC
Rep Power: 0 Is your 12v wire hooked up to your boost gauge? When you put your car in ignitino just the needle jump a bit, if not id check your electrical connections. It may be your vaccum line but i dont know why it still wouldnt be working...and it shouldnt be too much boost. Just definately stay below 4000rpm and dont push your car real hard til you get it tuned and everything working properly, good luck
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Balut Eating Champ
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Originally Posted by civicskater
Is your 12v wire hooked up to your boost gauge? When you put your car in ignitino just the needle jump a bit, if not id check your electrical connections. It may be your vaccum line but i dont know why it still wouldnt be working...and it shouldnt be too much boost. Just definately stay below 4000rpm and dont push your car real hard til you get it tuned and everything working properly, good luck
but the fluttering noise is like that because it's untuned or I messed up on the connection?
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From: Hickville, NC
Rep Power: 0 i think its because its untuned, so its not making steady boost pressure...but it may be the connection, the vaccum pressure causing the spring to only open at certain intervals due to not a steady pull. But do like madwheel said to do with the screw on the bov, on my ssqv i had it screwed freaking tight, almost like i blew something, but it worked til it was tuned
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Balut Eating Champ
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Originally Posted by civicskater
i think its because its untuned, so its not making steady boost pressure...but it may be the connection, the vaccum pressure causing the spring to only open at certain intervals due to not a steady pull. But do like madwheel said to do with the screw on the bov, on my ssqv i had it screwed freaking tight, almost like i blew something, but it worked til it was tuned
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From: Dallas, PA
Rep Power: 607 the fluttering could be compressor surge....not sure cuz i can't hear it.
as far as the gauge, where is ur vaccum line hooked too ?
as far as the gauge, where is ur vaccum line hooked too ?
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Balut Eating Champ
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Originally Posted by civic01vtec
the fluttering could be compressor surge....not sure cuz i can't hear it.
as far as the gauge, where is ur vaccum line hooked too ?
as far as the gauge, where is ur vaccum line hooked too ?
I can blow air through the hose0 and the gauge needle moves... the gauge is mechanical, the power and ground is hooked on right... I guess it's just that it aint' tuned yet and I don't wanna punch it yet, or i'll be riding the bus
but it just bugs me coz, I can sense any boost or vac on my gauge.... I even put the boost gauge to the highest PSI but still the needle didn't even budge a little...
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Balut Eating Champ
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Rep Power: 0 ok guys... today my CEL came on and the BOV seems to be fine... no more fluttering... and also I can't hear any noise from BOV... and still my boost gauge is dead
HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPPPPPP PPPPP!!!
HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPPPPPP PPPPP!!! 
your boost gauge may be leaking internally. I know my friends was and it caused his car to act up. He unhooked the gauge and it fixed it. Just get a new gauge and see. Autometer gauges that are pressurized can go bad.
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From: Hickville, NC
Rep Power: 0 I have a 2 5/8" autogage Boost/Vaccumm pressure gauge, reads to 20psi that if you want ill sell to you for $20 shipped...its brand new, just opened the box to see it, was oging to go on my dads 240sx when he was going to turbo that, but we never did.
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Balut Eating Champ
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Originally Posted by civicskater
I have a 2 5/8" autogage Boost/Vaccumm pressure gauge, reads to 20psi that if you want ill sell to you for $20 shipped...its brand new, just opened the box to see it, was oging to go on my dads 240sx when he was going to turbo that, but we never did.
man my intake on the tb popped yesterday that's why I wasn't feelin any boost... now it's fixed but the cel is on... I don't have any day off untill next week... and my gauge is dead, I need a new one
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Balut Eating Champ
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Originally Posted by Titleist71
your boost gauge may be leaking internally. I know my friends was and it caused his car to act up. He unhooked the gauge and it fixed it. Just get a new gauge and see. Autometer gauges that are pressurized can go bad.
boost gauge is ok, I tested it with a foot pump and the gauge is ok...
Shawn mentioned that I have to connect one of the hose to the boost controller or the internal wastegate... there is two hoses there but the other one connects to the turbo and the other from the wastegate... and both lines connects to the boost controller
am I suppose to tap it in one of the lines to connect to the T-Fittings? Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Dallas, PA
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Originally Posted by pnoyster2k1cvic
boost gauge is ok, I tested it with a foot pump and the gauge is ok...
Shawn mentioned that I have to connect one of the hose to the boost controller or the internal wastegate... there is two hoses there but the other one connects to the turbo and the other from the wastegate... and both lines connects to the boost controller am I suppose to tap it in one of the lines to connect to the T-Fittings?
Shawn mentioned that I have to connect one of the hose to the boost controller or the internal wastegate... there is two hoses there but the other one connects to the turbo and the other from the wastegate... and both lines connects to the boost controller
am I suppose to tap it in one of the lines to connect to the T-Fittings?
Originally Posted by civic01vtec
For the T fitting, i tapped into the vaccum line behind the map sensor and ran one to the bov, another to the FMU and another to my boost controller.
Then on the turbo, u need to run a vaccum line from the compressor housing to the wastegate actuator.
Then on the turbo, u need to run a vaccum line from the compressor housing to the wastegate actuator.
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Balut Eating Champ
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Rep Power: 0 when RScivic sent the kit the hose from the compressor housing was connected to the the manual boost controller and the wastegate actuator was also connected to the manual boost controller so i just tapped in the T fitting on the hose that runs from the wastegate actuator to the boost controller...
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From: Dallas, PA
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Originally Posted by pnoyster2k1cvic
when RScivic sent the kit the hose from the compressor housing was connected to the the manual boost controller and the wastegate actuator was also connected to the manual boost controller so i just tapped in the T fitting on the hose that runs from the wastegate actuator to the boost controller...
But that still doesn't explain why your boost gauge doesn't work. Where does the hose for ur gauge run too ?
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Balut Eating Champ
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Originally Posted by civic01vtec
yeah, that is right.
But that still doesn't explain why your boost gauge doesn't work. Where does the hose for ur gauge run too ?
But that still doesn't explain why your boost gauge doesn't work. Where does the hose for ur gauge run too ?
here's where I ran the hose...
COMPRESSOR HOUSING--TO--boost controller
ACTUATOR--TO--boost controller(I tapped a Tfitting in between that runs to the 5 line Tfittings)
FUEL REGULATOR--TO--5 line Tfittings
VAC LINE--TO--5 line Tfittings
BOOST GAUGE--TO--5 line Tfittings
now the boost gauge work, but not sensing boost, it's on 15PSI VAC, I have a MAP/BARO CIRCUIT HIGH INPUT (CEL through a scanner)
Last edited by pnoyster2k1cvic; Sep 4, 2004 at 02:26 PM.
