What Paint
how do you want it painted? regardless, you'll need to sand and make everything really perfectly smooth, the paint will show all. Get some bondo and a face mask fo shizzle. It might also be fun to router the edges for a rounded look, assuming its wood. i wouldn't worry about the paint too much. After it's sanded perfectly smooth, just get a nice coat of primer on it, sand it with some really high grit and wipe with a tack cloth. finish off with more paint and a clearcoat if you want. If you want like a piano blak finish, it'll take a lot more time and buffing, depending of course 
Thread Starter
The LA Clipper
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 5,539
Likes: 0
From: SoCal, California, US
Rep Power: 346 
Originally Posted by Ed
how do you want it painted? regardless, you'll need to sand and make everything really perfectly smooth, the paint will show all. Get some bondo and a face mask fo shizzle. It might also be fun to router the edges for a rounded look, assuming its wood. i wouldn't worry about the paint too much. After it's sanded perfectly smooth, just get a nice coat of primer on it, sand it with some really high grit and wipe with a tack cloth. finish off with more paint and a clearcoat if you want. If you want like a piano blak finish, it'll take a lot more time and buffing, depending of course
Woah, Thanks Ed...that sounds complicated...maybe I should just stick with carpet
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 51,077
Likes: 4
From: B.C., Canada
Rep Power: 786 My old box I just used rubberized undercoat... it looked heinous but it worked...
If you want it to actually have a nice shiny finish, you'll need to put a lot more work into it
If you want it to actually have a nice shiny finish, you'll need to put a lot more work into it
ahh, yes, good point, if you want, you can use the Truck bed liner material, it's nice stuff and hides minor imperfections very well, and is very durable, great for a sub in the trunk.
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/truckbed.html i used teh spray. If you end up doing that, first get some cheap $.99 can of black spray paint and spray the outside, then spray the truck bed liner for the texture and final color.
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/truckbed.html i used teh spray. If you end up doing that, first get some cheap $.99 can of black spray paint and spray the outside, then spray the truck bed liner for the texture and final color.
My advice is if you wanna paint it, just be sure to carpet the bottom of the box. This makes the box more stationary and less likely to move around, especially when you're taking corners. its not a good feeling to hear a thump from your box moving and hitting sthg!
SiG
SiG
Electric Boogaloo...
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,457
Likes: 1
From: Want to play a game?
Rep Power: 328 Assuming you;re going for a glossy finish here. I usually choose my color from either the store bought Duplicolor paints (automotive quality) or go to a paint shop and have them mix the color I want for me and buy their primer as well. But, I own a compressor and spray gun as well, so this is the easiest way for me, plus I can get any color I want this way. Regardless, this is the method I've developed to keep it free of runs, and as smooth as possilbe:
To paint it (wood, glass, whatever). Make sure you sand the surface as smooth as possible. Wipe if free of any debris left from sanding (I recommend wiping with a dry cloth the get as much as you can off of it, then going back over it with a tack cloth to remove the unseen particles) Then spray a medium coat of filler primer on it and allow it to dry. Once dry, sand it with 200-400 grit sandpaper (you're gonna remove a pretty good bit of the primer here). Once you've sanded this, wipe it down with a slightly damp rag, and tack cloth again after it dries. Next, apply a heavy coat of primer to the surface. Once this coat dries, sand it with no less than 400 grit paper. Wipe aagain, and tack cloth again. You should have a uniformed near perfectly smooth surface with even coverage of primer (you don't remove as much primer as you did the first time, leaving it with even coverage of the piece). From here, you'll want to wipe down again with the damp rag and then tack cloth to remove all of the foreign loose particles. Spray on a very light coat of the finish color. Not even enough for complete coverage (I call this the tack coat). Let it dry for half of the recommended drying time until it's tacky/sticky (not completely dry). When it gets to this state, spray on another light coat, covering a little more than the first time. Continue spraying light coats, and letting it dry progressively more each time until you have complete coverage. Once you have complete coverage, let it dry completely. Once dry, wet sand with a higher grit paper (I like to sand the first finish color coat with no more than 800 grit paper). You don't want to remove until the finish is splotchy with finish color and primer showing through, but enough to remove air bubbles, spray dimples, etc. Once you've completely wet sanded it, while it's still a little moits, wipe dry with a rag, paper towel, etc. Once you've got it dry, wipe lightly again with a tack cloth to remove unseen particles. From here, I spray a medium coat of the finish color again, and let it dry completely. Wet sand with no less than 800 grit until baby smooth. wipe dry, and lightly with tack cloth again. I usually spray 3-5 of these medium coats of finish color, wet sanding between each with 800-1000 grit paper. Once I;ve got those done, I spray one last, medium-heavy coat of the finish color. After this coat dries, I wet sand a final time with 1000-1200 grit paper, dry and wipe with tack cloth. You should have a rich color, with a slightly dull/satin finish. From here I start in with the clear coating process. I start with the light coat as I did with the finish color, and spray 3 or 4 light coats until I have complete coverage, letting it cure half of the time recommended to dry until I have a uniform coverage. Then, I let it dry and wet sand with no less than 1200-1500 grit paper. I then apply 3-5 medium heavy coats of clear coat (wet sanding with progressively higher grit paper each time, drying and tack clothing between each) until I have a clear glossy finish coat. Once dry, I wet sand a final time with 2000-2500 grit paper. I remove very little paint here, really just smoothing the surface a final time. Once that is done, I wipe clean a final time, and do not wipe off with a tack cloth. I let it air dry and wipe again with an additional clean slightly damp cloth and let air dry again. Then, I wipe a final time with a dry cloth. Once it's dry, I use a finishing compound to buff it to a high gloss finish(if its a largey piece, I usually whip out the buffer). Then I use wax give it the wet look finish. It's a time intensive process using my method, but the results are well worth it IMO.
To paint it (wood, glass, whatever). Make sure you sand the surface as smooth as possible. Wipe if free of any debris left from sanding (I recommend wiping with a dry cloth the get as much as you can off of it, then going back over it with a tack cloth to remove the unseen particles) Then spray a medium coat of filler primer on it and allow it to dry. Once dry, sand it with 200-400 grit sandpaper (you're gonna remove a pretty good bit of the primer here). Once you've sanded this, wipe it down with a slightly damp rag, and tack cloth again after it dries. Next, apply a heavy coat of primer to the surface. Once this coat dries, sand it with no less than 400 grit paper. Wipe aagain, and tack cloth again. You should have a uniformed near perfectly smooth surface with even coverage of primer (you don't remove as much primer as you did the first time, leaving it with even coverage of the piece). From here, you'll want to wipe down again with the damp rag and then tack cloth to remove all of the foreign loose particles. Spray on a very light coat of the finish color. Not even enough for complete coverage (I call this the tack coat). Let it dry for half of the recommended drying time until it's tacky/sticky (not completely dry). When it gets to this state, spray on another light coat, covering a little more than the first time. Continue spraying light coats, and letting it dry progressively more each time until you have complete coverage. Once you have complete coverage, let it dry completely. Once dry, wet sand with a higher grit paper (I like to sand the first finish color coat with no more than 800 grit paper). You don't want to remove until the finish is splotchy with finish color and primer showing through, but enough to remove air bubbles, spray dimples, etc. Once you've completely wet sanded it, while it's still a little moits, wipe dry with a rag, paper towel, etc. Once you've got it dry, wipe lightly again with a tack cloth to remove unseen particles. From here, I spray a medium coat of the finish color again, and let it dry completely. Wet sand with no less than 800 grit until baby smooth. wipe dry, and lightly with tack cloth again. I usually spray 3-5 of these medium coats of finish color, wet sanding between each with 800-1000 grit paper. Once I;ve got those done, I spray one last, medium-heavy coat of the finish color. After this coat dries, I wet sand a final time with 1000-1200 grit paper, dry and wipe with tack cloth. You should have a rich color, with a slightly dull/satin finish. From here I start in with the clear coating process. I start with the light coat as I did with the finish color, and spray 3 or 4 light coats until I have complete coverage, letting it cure half of the time recommended to dry until I have a uniform coverage. Then, I let it dry and wet sand with no less than 1200-1500 grit paper. I then apply 3-5 medium heavy coats of clear coat (wet sanding with progressively higher grit paper each time, drying and tack clothing between each) until I have a clear glossy finish coat. Once dry, I wet sand a final time with 2000-2500 grit paper. I remove very little paint here, really just smoothing the surface a final time. Once that is done, I wipe clean a final time, and do not wipe off with a tack cloth. I let it air dry and wipe again with an additional clean slightly damp cloth and let air dry again. Then, I wipe a final time with a dry cloth. Once it's dry, I use a finishing compound to buff it to a high gloss finish(if its a largey piece, I usually whip out the buffer). Then I use wax give it the wet look finish. It's a time intensive process using my method, but the results are well worth it IMO.
Last edited by PopcornPlaya; Aug 8, 2004 at 11:27 PM.
Thread Starter
The LA Clipper
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 5,539
Likes: 0
From: SoCal, California, US
Rep Power: 346 Dude, thanks...I can't beleive you wrote all of that...I guess you missed what I said about just stickin with carpet
...I'll give you some rep points
...I'll give you some rep points
Electric Boogaloo...
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,457
Likes: 1
From: Want to play a game?
Rep Power: 328
Originally Posted by fonto
Dude, thanks...I can't beleive you wrote all of that...I guess you missed what I said about just stickin with carpet
Originally Posted by MegaHurtz
I take it you've done some painting before Playa?
Registered!!
iTrader: (20)
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,111
Likes: 1
From: Cleveland, OH
Rep Power: 329 give me rep points!!!
you thought about doing vinyl ever? i'm building a box tomorrow for a couple shivas i picked up local (1.8cu sealed) and was curious about how it looks. my dad has a sign shop and has almost any color vinyl i could want, all different qualities. i was just curious about pros and cons of vinyl, how difficult it would be to make it look clean.
you thought about doing vinyl ever? i'm building a box tomorrow for a couple shivas i picked up local (1.8cu sealed
) and was curious about how it looks. my dad has a sign shop and has almost any color vinyl i could want, all different qualities. i was just curious about pros and cons of vinyl, how difficult it would be to make it look clean. Thread Starter
The LA Clipper
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 5,539
Likes: 0
From: SoCal, California, US
Rep Power: 346 vinyl can look really good...but i would not use it on you typical rectangular sub box, because it would look goofy...it would look better if you fiberglassed a box, or built one into the spare tire well, and then used vinyl on the whole trunk...i think it is better to either go all vinyl, or all carpet.
Thread
Thread Starter
Honda Civic Forum
Replies
Last Post
Wankenstein
Mechanical Problems/Vehicle Issues and Fix-it Forum
11
Sep 27, 2015 11:33 AM
