Subwoofer Question
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not that i can tell. it will just cut out then might cut on then off again. almost like someone is holdin the wire to the terminal and moving it away. but i know they are secure.
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check this out for me...
i have two of these... http://www.purecaraudio.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=2173
one of this... http://www.purecaraudio.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=2168
and i wired it this way... http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/at...chmentid=32938
i have 4 gauge coming off the batt. and a dist. box that runs to two amps. i currently have 10 gauge running to this amp cause that is all i had at the time. i plan to change it to 6 or 8.
what do you think is up?
i have two of these... http://www.purecaraudio.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=2173
one of this... http://www.purecaraudio.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=2168
and i wired it this way... http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/at...chmentid=32938
i have 4 gauge coming off the batt. and a dist. box that runs to two amps. i currently have 10 gauge running to this amp cause that is all i had at the time. i plan to change it to 6 or 8.
what do you think is up?
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new information..... there is a green power light and a redlight next to it that says port, when the sub cuts out the green light goes off and the red one comes on.
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That amp is wired way too low, it's seeing .5 in mono when it should be seeing no less than 4. You are lucky going into protection is the worst that happened.
You need to rewire your subs (no alternative) to 4 ohm mono to get the most power out of your amp. You could also wire it to 2 ohm stereo, but according to the specs provided, you will get 33% more power this way.
Attached is a diagram of how they should be wired.
Let me know if you want to know anything else
You need to rewire your subs (no alternative) to 4 ohm mono to get the most power out of your amp. You could also wire it to 2 ohm stereo, but according to the specs provided, you will get 33% more power this way.
Attached is a diagram of how they should be wired.
Let me know if you want to know anything else
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Hehehe, the secret is safe with me 
Consider it a could-have-been-way-worse lesson learned. Always good to make mistakes the first time around, you gain more experience that way. Always be 1000000% sure what your wiring connections will do, and be well aware of the ohm load on your amp

Consider it a could-have-been-way-worse lesson learned. Always good to make mistakes the first time around, you gain more experience that way. Always be 1000000% sure what your wiring connections will do, and be well aware of the ohm load on your amp
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Originally Posted by civic2uner
see thats the thing. i havent a clue what an ohm is.
Aye Caramba!
Read this before you do anything else
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yeah, if you are having that much trouble, you should get it professionally wired...
it might help to spend the money now and have equipment that still works later on.
it might help to spend the money now and have equipment that still works later on.
Originally Posted by civic2uner
new information..... there is a green power light and a redlight next to it that says port, when the sub cuts out the green light goes off and the red one comes on.
your amp is probably located near your Sub. the wire (or wires) connected to your amp appear to be loose. I think when ur sub hits high...the resonnance/sound moves the wire and perhaps cuts it off.
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That would just break the connection and lose the signal, not send the amp into protection mode.
Problem is already solved, have a look at the rest of the thread.
Problem is already solved, have a look at the rest of the thread.
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Originally Posted by MegaHurtz
Problem is already solved, have a look at the rest of the thread.
another question,
on my cd player i have some settings that i dont know what are, they are as follows:
subwoofer low pass: 50/80/120/thru Hz (those are the settings)
front/rear high pass filter: thru/100/125/170 Hz
what are these and what do they need to be set on?
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If your amp has it's own lowpass xover (which I would make the likely assumption that it does), then I would put your decks sub low pass at thru, and set the xover on your amp to about 80 hz.
You can go either way on your front/rear high pass, either put it to thru, or set it to about 100 or 125 hz. Your choice, try them all and see how they sound to you. But for the sub xover, definitely leave it full range on the deck (thru) and use the xover on your amp instead
To answer your question though they are crossovers. What they do is filter out certain frequencies beyond a cutoff point which would be your 80hz or hwatever for your sub. They do not block any frequencies above or below your xover point, but they will get gradually filtered out on a curve which is predetermined, I think a good example would be to say that an xover is a 2db/octave curve. Somebody may correct me on that, but that's my example
A lowpass xover would be for your subs or low range speakers, and lets the LOW frequencies PASS through, while filtering out the higher range.
The opposite would be true for a highpass crossover, higher frequencies are played, and lower stuff is filtered out.
You can go either way on your front/rear high pass, either put it to thru, or set it to about 100 or 125 hz. Your choice, try them all and see how they sound to you. But for the sub xover, definitely leave it full range on the deck (thru) and use the xover on your amp instead
To answer your question though they are crossovers. What they do is filter out certain frequencies beyond a cutoff point which would be your 80hz or hwatever for your sub. They do not block any frequencies above or below your xover point, but they will get gradually filtered out on a curve which is predetermined, I think a good example would be to say that an xover is a 2db/octave curve. Somebody may correct me on that, but that's my example

A lowpass xover would be for your subs or low range speakers, and lets the LOW frequencies PASS through, while filtering out the higher range.
The opposite would be true for a highpass crossover, higher frequencies are played, and lower stuff is filtered out.
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so if i want my highs to play nuttin but highs turn the hpf to 170 hz?
and if i want my sub to just be hittin the low notes turn the lpf to 80hz?
i just want the shiznit to be loud! hahahahaha
and if i want my sub to just be hittin the low notes turn the lpf to 80hz?
i just want the shiznit to be loud! hahahahaha
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Exactly
I am not saying turn the HPF up to 170 and leave it there, try EVERY setting until you find what suits your ears best while you are sitting in the drivers seat... passengers can go suck an egg
and like I said, on your DECK, set the LPF to thru so that there is no xover applied, and then use the amplifier to set the xover.
If you want to improve your highs even further (for free), try fading your sound until it sounds like it's coming a lot more from the front than the back, and then move the balance to the right until the sound is more in the center of the car.
It won't make leagues of difference in your SQ, but you might like the effect. Try it and see for yourself.
I am not saying turn the HPF up to 170 and leave it there, try EVERY setting until you find what suits your ears best while you are sitting in the drivers seat... passengers can go suck an egg

and like I said, on your DECK, set the LPF to thru so that there is no xover applied, and then use the amplifier to set the xover.
If you want to improve your highs even further (for free), try fading your sound until it sounds like it's coming a lot more from the front than the back, and then move the balance to the right until the sound is more in the center of the car.
It won't make leagues of difference in your SQ, but you might like the effect. Try it and see for yourself.



