Hayame v.02 Tucked on 2004 LX Coupe ...achieved
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Hayame v.02 Tucked on 2004 LX Coupe ...achieved
I call my settings tucked on 215/45-17 Tires
Rear, no-preload, lowest setting on the lower collar.
Front, no-preload, lowest setting on the collar.
Side-view.
4" drop on the rear is possible but dangerous. The drop is achieved by not securing the top 2 locking perch with the springs. The springs could move up and down freely if you hit a bump, turn corner etc. The drop is not recommended for daily driving and could only be used for show purposes
Theres only one little problem. It was the front bolt which the 19mm doesnt fit anymore because hayame's hole is a little small. Andy installed a 17mm and fit fine. He suggested to dremel it a little bit so I can fit the 19mm back.
Other than that, it was a smooth installation...an hour. I paid $65.00 but I handed Andy another $20.00 because I felt the install was worth over what he originally charged me.
I love lowered Civic!!!!
Rear, no-preload, lowest setting on the lower collar.
Front, no-preload, lowest setting on the collar.
Side-view.
4" drop on the rear is possible but dangerous. The drop is achieved by not securing the top 2 locking perch with the springs. The springs could move up and down freely if you hit a bump, turn corner etc. The drop is not recommended for daily driving and could only be used for show purposes
Theres only one little problem. It was the front bolt which the 19mm doesnt fit anymore because hayame's hole is a little small. Andy installed a 17mm and fit fine. He suggested to dremel it a little bit so I can fit the 19mm back.
Other than that, it was a smooth installation...an hour. I paid $65.00 but I handed Andy another $20.00 because I felt the install was worth over what he originally charged me.
I love lowered Civic!!!!
Last edited by 518; Jun 20, 2004 at 08:19 PM.
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Rep Power: 0 I went to have the car aligned. The front is okay and within specs. The rear however, has -3.2 camber. The alignment shop installed an SPC rear camber kit but the settings is left at -3.2, here is why:
If they were to correct the negative camber, the tires will rub the side of the fender. They said they will shave the side of the fender but I dont want to do that. The part "side of the fender" I am talking about is where you put the fender liner is so equipped. I told them I will raise the car and come back next week to correct the alignment. There were no issue about the fender liner itself.
The front feels/sounds like Im rubbing whenever I hit a bump.
The alignment shop informed me that everytime they work on 01-up Civic and RSX, it seems like that strut top requires some washer or filler to keep the wheel/suspension from moving freely. They have been installing coilover for RSX/Civic but it comes with a some type of washer/filler to fill the gap and it doesnt have the shaking/moving problem that I am having right now.
If they were to correct the negative camber, the tires will rub the side of the fender. They said they will shave the side of the fender but I dont want to do that. The part "side of the fender" I am talking about is where you put the fender liner is so equipped. I told them I will raise the car and come back next week to correct the alignment. There were no issue about the fender liner itself.
The front feels/sounds like Im rubbing whenever I hit a bump.
The alignment shop informed me that everytime they work on 01-up Civic and RSX, it seems like that strut top requires some washer or filler to keep the wheel/suspension from moving freely. They have been installing coilover for RSX/Civic but it comes with a some type of washer/filler to fill the gap and it doesnt have the shaking/moving problem that I am having right now.
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Rep Power: 0 looks good, hope your problems get worked out as well. I havent heard about the problem with the strut top needed filler but that may be your case, with as low as you are..im only at 1.1" on stock struts
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Rep Power: 0 Im not sure if this is exclusive for Hayame But I believe that any coilover with three locking perch is capable of spring preload (i.e. JIC Magic)
Page 7, preload mentioned
Page 7, preload mentioned
! A little positive analysis.
No, it's not exclusive. It's something you'll find on most mid-high end full coilovers.
Not bad. I wonder if you got that low because of the overall diameter of your wheel & tire combo + the camber angle. I might want to look into that but who knows. It looks nice. Congrats.
215/45-17 is the same as 185/65-15. When I had that size on my car (the rear) temporarily (before getting some 205/50-15s on), I noticed that the gap was considerably filled a lot more. The suspension was at it's lowest with almost no preload but I'd estimate there was a 2 to 2 1/2 inch gap. If my camber was set a bbit more negative (as at that time, it was leaning close to almost 0 degrees), then maybe my car would've been low enough for my taste.
It looks like Hayames were tested with the stock tire size. When you look at it that way, that could very well be 4 inches from stock using that size tire, but I'm not saying that's completely true. I'm still returning mine because regardless they don't go low enough for my tire size. As far as I know, B&G seems to be the only solution for me.
In the end, it MAY look like anyone with low profile tires and Hayames, is gonna get ****ed.
Not bad. I wonder if you got that low because of the overall diameter of your wheel & tire combo + the camber angle. I might want to look into that but who knows. It looks nice. Congrats.
215/45-17 is the same as 185/65-15. When I had that size on my car (the rear) temporarily (before getting some 205/50-15s on), I noticed that the gap was considerably filled a lot more. The suspension was at it's lowest with almost no preload but I'd estimate there was a 2 to 2 1/2 inch gap. If my camber was set a bbit more negative (as at that time, it was leaning close to almost 0 degrees), then maybe my car would've been low enough for my taste.
It looks like Hayames were tested with the stock tire size. When you look at it that way, that could very well be 4 inches from stock using that size tire, but I'm not saying that's completely true. I'm still returning mine because regardless they don't go low enough for my tire size. As far as I know, B&G seems to be the only solution for me.
In the end, it MAY look like anyone with low profile tires and Hayames, is gonna get ****ed.
Last edited by SlammedBlueEM2; Jun 20, 2004 at 12:06 AM.
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Rep Power: 0 So I decided to raise my rear. I followed the 7thgen's instruction and it is turning. However, I noticed that there are some type of 'thread' milgrain falling from the top part of the strut. Its hard to explain, but you know when you are rethreading and there are particles/grains that comes out? That's what Im seeing right now. And the bottom rubber grommet is starting to fall apart as I raise the height. Looks like its better to raise the car while the bottom collar is our of the vehicle. But then again whats the point of having a coilover right?
Bottom rubber? You mean the spring isolator that sits between the spring and the locking nut? Raising the height shouldn't put too much pressure on it compared to giving it more preload. Either way, the previous one was plastic. I didn't understand the concept of making it rubber. If it's going to rip apart then the spring is going to squeak.
You're right... but that's how you raise the car. You really don't want to take it apart while it's on the car or else it's gonna take hours.
You're right... but that's how you raise the car. You really don't want to take it apart while it's on the car or else it's gonna take hours.
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Rep Power: 0 Slammed, the spring isolator (rubber) starts to disintegrate while pre-loading the springs.
The movement of my front wheels has been eliminated. The guy who installed my coils moved the position of the 3 perches when I asked him not to touch anything other than install the freakin' suspension.
Spent half a day making every corner balanced and I came to find out that the reason why my rears are tucked is because the springs are moving freely. Again, the freakin guy who installed it moved the F'ing perches, again
It seems like the 4" drop on all four corners is possible 'if' the springs are not secured to the top strut. I can only think that the 4" drop is for show purposes only and not recommended for driving or you will hear clunk and could damage the whole system. I bet you, Hayame will say the same thing about the 4" drop.
After a couple of taking the wheels on and off, a couple of bandages on my fingers, a greasy hands, sweat, blood from my finger, back hurts...all corners have a 5mm gap.
Took it for a test drive, hard turns and what not. I can honestly say that this car grips better and can take abuse on turns now. I can live with the softness of the springs (no pre-load or you will raise the height) since I dont really participate in auto-x.
After everything has been fixed on four corners:
Not bad, not bad at all.
I feel bad for the people who expected to have a 4" drop without compromising the safety on the road. This coils, if advertised, should drop 4" with no safety issues.
Taking half-a-day off from work tomorrow to get rid of the -3 camber on the rear.
edit: for those of you who noticed that the shade of my windows has changed between morning pic and afternoon pic, I had it tinted with Quantum Film. Its not too dark when the sun is not hitting it. It turns into a mirrorish (not much) finish when sun hits it. It also blocks 50% more of the Sun rays and lasts longer than dyed tints. This is perfect if you dont wanna get hassled by cops at night because they can still see you inside when there's no sun. Cost? $214 with lifetime warranty.
The movement of my front wheels has been eliminated. The guy who installed my coils moved the position of the 3 perches when I asked him not to touch anything other than install the freakin' suspension.
Spent half a day making every corner balanced and I came to find out that the reason why my rears are tucked is because the springs are moving freely. Again, the freakin guy who installed it moved the F'ing perches, again
It seems like the 4" drop on all four corners is possible 'if' the springs are not secured to the top strut. I can only think that the 4" drop is for show purposes only and not recommended for driving or you will hear clunk and could damage the whole system. I bet you, Hayame will say the same thing about the 4" drop.
After a couple of taking the wheels on and off, a couple of bandages on my fingers, a greasy hands, sweat, blood from my finger, back hurts...all corners have a 5mm gap.
Took it for a test drive, hard turns and what not. I can honestly say that this car grips better and can take abuse on turns now. I can live with the softness of the springs (no pre-load or you will raise the height) since I dont really participate in auto-x.
After everything has been fixed on four corners:
Not bad, not bad at all.
I feel bad for the people who expected to have a 4" drop without compromising the safety on the road. This coils, if advertised, should drop 4" with no safety issues.
Taking half-a-day off from work tomorrow to get rid of the -3 camber on the rear.
edit: for those of you who noticed that the shade of my windows has changed between morning pic and afternoon pic, I had it tinted with Quantum Film. Its not too dark when the sun is not hitting it. It turns into a mirrorish (not much) finish when sun hits it. It also blocks 50% more of the Sun rays and lasts longer than dyed tints. This is perfect if you dont wanna get hassled by cops at night because they can still see you inside when there's no sun. Cost? $214 with lifetime warranty.
Last edited by 518; Jun 20, 2004 at 08:15 PM.
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Rep Power: 0 Goodmorning.
I drove my car to work on the freeway/street and its starting to annoy me of the softness of my ride. This is softer than my softest setting (#16) on my TEIN SS. I can't remember how the ride feels with just the springs with OEM shocks so I cant compare.
I highly suggest getting a stiffer springs when you order a Hayame. If I am not mistaken, 6K/8K are the one that comes with our Hayame unless the customer requests a stiffer spring, correct? I think 8k/10k will be a better spring since we cant even pre-load the 6k/8k because we're going to end up raising our car. I was reading one of the review and says there that Hayame's ride is ONLY better when springs are pre-loaded at least an inch from where it first locks. Therefore, 8k/10k with no pre-load is a better springs for the Hayames.
I drove my car to work on the freeway/street and its starting to annoy me of the softness of my ride. This is softer than my softest setting (#16) on my TEIN SS. I can't remember how the ride feels with just the springs with OEM shocks so I cant compare.
I highly suggest getting a stiffer springs when you order a Hayame. If I am not mistaken, 6K/8K are the one that comes with our Hayame unless the customer requests a stiffer spring, correct? I think 8k/10k will be a better spring since we cant even pre-load the 6k/8k because we're going to end up raising our car. I was reading one of the review and says there that Hayame's ride is ONLY better when springs are pre-loaded at least an inch from where it first locks. Therefore, 8k/10k with no pre-load is a better springs for the Hayames.
Instead of raising the height with the 3rd lock nut, you could've lowered it all the way and then bumped up the preload to raise the height of the car.
You're not supposed to preload more than an inch. it gets hard to preload the spring after 3/4 of an inch because if you preload more than an inch, your already compressed suspension is at risk for coil-bind somewhere down the road. Try adjusting the preload. If you just say get stiffer springs then you could make your car too stiff for your taste. Having your springs at no preload = shitty ride.
IMO 6kg/8kg is not soft. I'm sure you may or may not notice on the freeway... but if you live in a city with crappy roads with those springs, you might not even like 6kg/8kg spring. You have to think about it because for street performance, that set-up has been the most recommended for Civic since th 6th Gen... try the preload... and you really don't need a lot of it.... no more than an inch!
You're not supposed to preload more than an inch. it gets hard to preload the spring after 3/4 of an inch because if you preload more than an inch, your already compressed suspension is at risk for coil-bind somewhere down the road. Try adjusting the preload. If you just say get stiffer springs then you could make your car too stiff for your taste. Having your springs at no preload = shitty ride.
IMO 6kg/8kg is not soft. I'm sure you may or may not notice on the freeway... but if you live in a city with crappy roads with those springs, you might not even like 6kg/8kg spring. You have to think about it because for street performance, that set-up has been the most recommended for Civic since th 6th Gen... try the preload... and you really don't need a lot of it.... no more than an inch!
Last edited by SlammedBlueEM2; Jun 21, 2004 at 01:26 PM.
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Rep Power: 0 Hey man I just checked on Hayames website and it says our springs are the 8k/10k springs, not the 6k/8k. 01-UP Civic 8kg/10kg HAY10.71.17
I just copied and paisted that from their website, if you want the direct link click HERE!! and you can read it for yourself that they do come with 8k/10k springs, unless they are wrong on the site. What's up with that than?
I just copied and paisted that from their website, if you want the direct link click HERE!! and you can read it for yourself that they do come with 8k/10k springs, unless they are wrong on the site. What's up with that than?
Originally Posted by 518
Goodmorning.
I drove my car to work on the freeway/street and its starting to annoy me of the softness of my ride. This is softer than my softest setting (#16) on my TEIN SS. I can't remember how the ride feels with just the springs with OEM shocks so I cant compare.
I highly suggest getting a stiffer springs when you order a Hayame. If I am not mistaken, 6K/8K are the one that comes with our Hayame unless the customer requests a stiffer spring, correct? I think 8k/10k will be a better spring since we cant even pre-load the 6k/8k because we're going to end up raising our car. I was reading one of the review and says there that Hayame's ride is ONLY better when springs are pre-loaded at least an inch from where it first locks. Therefore, 8k/10k with no pre-load is a better springs for the Hayames.
I drove my car to work on the freeway/street and its starting to annoy me of the softness of my ride. This is softer than my softest setting (#16) on my TEIN SS. I can't remember how the ride feels with just the springs with OEM shocks so I cant compare.
I highly suggest getting a stiffer springs when you order a Hayame. If I am not mistaken, 6K/8K are the one that comes with our Hayame unless the customer requests a stiffer spring, correct? I think 8k/10k will be a better spring since we cant even pre-load the 6k/8k because we're going to end up raising our car. I was reading one of the review and says there that Hayame's ride is ONLY better when springs are pre-loaded at least an inch from where it first locks. Therefore, 8k/10k with no pre-load is a better springs for the Hayames.
The v1 I have is not soft. When driving on crappy road I can tell how stiff it is compare to pro-kit/h&r sports on stock strut. I have about 2mm of pre-load on front and back. You have to add pre-load on the car or else the ride will be crappy. Try to add pre-load like slam said. Thats why no way you can get 4" drop with the hayame.
Let us know how it rides after you add pre-load and compare to Tein SS. I want to get that if I can get a refund.
Let us know how it rides after you add pre-load and compare to Tein SS. I want to get that if I can get a refund.
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I dont want a pre-load because it will not be on my desired height.
matrix
I stand corrected but its still too soft for my taste. I think we should continue with the BB thing since this is a false advertisement. Or at least they could have included a disclaimer on 0-4 lowering.
slammed, the ride feels good on the street but not on the freeway. And the lower collar is all the way in. Meaning, its the lowest it can screw. Thats what I actually did when raising the car. No-preload, one finger gap.
When pre-loading, are the springs suppose to turn too or just the collar? If I try not to move the springs while pre-loading, the isolators are ripping apart.
dacivic, as much as I want to pre-load, I dont want to or I will break the spring isolator. The spring isolator is almost torn because I tried to pre-load with no more than an inch. It was only half an inch and the isolator is starting to fall apart.
great, now I'm gonna ride higher since I have an SPC rear camber kit.
I noticed that my front has positive camber while the rear has -3 camber. I was going to wait until next saturday to do the alignment again but this is going to screw my tires and steering.
thank goodness for the lifetime alignment
how about a -1.5 front and -1.0 on rear, 0 toe on all four and stock specs caster sounds?
Or should I have -1.0F and -1.5R instead?
I dont want a pre-load because it will not be on my desired height.
matrix
Hey man I just checked on Hayames website and it says our springs are the 8k/10k springs, not the 6k/8k. 01-UP Civic 8kg/10kg HAY10.71.17
I just copied and paisted that from their website, if you want the direct link click HERE!! and you can read it for yourself that they do come with 8k/10k springs, unless they are wrong on the site. What's up with that than?
I just copied and paisted that from their website, if you want the direct link click HERE!! and you can read it for yourself that they do come with 8k/10k springs, unless they are wrong on the site. What's up with that than?
slammed, the ride feels good on the street but not on the freeway. And the lower collar is all the way in. Meaning, its the lowest it can screw. Thats what I actually did when raising the car. No-preload, one finger gap.
When pre-loading, are the springs suppose to turn too or just the collar? If I try not to move the springs while pre-loading, the isolators are ripping apart.
dacivic, as much as I want to pre-load, I dont want to or I will break the spring isolator. The spring isolator is almost torn because I tried to pre-load with no more than an inch. It was only half an inch and the isolator is starting to fall apart.
I also realized something. If you fix the rear camber with a rear camber kit, it's going to raise the height of the rear a bit.
I noticed that my front has positive camber while the rear has -3 camber. I was going to wait until next saturday to do the alignment again but this is going to screw my tires and steering.
thank goodness for the lifetime alignment
how about a -1.5 front and -1.0 on rear, 0 toe on all four and stock specs caster sounds?
Or should I have -1.0F and -1.5R instead?
Last edited by 518; Jun 21, 2004 at 03:57 PM.
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Rep Power: 0 Hayame website said something about 0-4in. Adjustment Range. But they did not specify whether it's to lower the car. Maybe a 4" adjustment is:
3" to raise from stock and 1" to lower the stock height...this is ridiculous.
This looks like a misinterpretation on all parties
3" to raise from stock and 1" to lower the stock height...this is ridiculous.
This looks like a misinterpretation on all parties
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Originally Posted by 518
I feel bad for the people who expected to have a 4" drop without compromising the safety on the road. This coils, if advertised, should drop 4" with no safety issues.
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Rep Power: 0 If its a safety issue, why recommend them? I know its a range but why advertise them if 'companies' should be even worried about safety issues on third locking perch?
I want to make sure everyone sees this post, I really hate to cross-post.
this is what I was talking about. A first I thought I was able to eliminate the the movement when I secured the springs with the top two perch. I went to have my car aligned again today and it still moves a little bit. The alignment shop said there something that goes on top like a washer to properly secure it. They install suspensions to RSX and 7th gen civic and the coil-over comes with a washer or it will move.
Heres what I have observed. Please check your wheels as well.
Right Front Wheel:
1. Position your one hand to 1 o'clock and the other to 7 o'clock
2. Try to wiggle it.
Left Front Wheel:
1. Position your one hand to 11 o'clock and the other to 5 o'clock
2. Try to wiggle it.
It only moves when your hands are at the positions mentioned.
I want to make sure everyone sees this post, I really hate to cross-post.
Originally Posted by Cocky
i saw something about needing a washer on the strut top (on the front) or something. i'm gonna install mine tomorrow.. anyone know about that? i need pictures or something too. it said the suspension moves freely and rubs.
this is what I was talking about. A first I thought I was able to eliminate the the movement when I secured the springs with the top two perch. I went to have my car aligned again today and it still moves a little bit. The alignment shop said there something that goes on top like a washer to properly secure it. They install suspensions to RSX and 7th gen civic and the coil-over comes with a washer or it will move.
Heres what I have observed. Please check your wheels as well.
Right Front Wheel:
1. Position your one hand to 1 o'clock and the other to 7 o'clock
2. Try to wiggle it.
Left Front Wheel:
1. Position your one hand to 11 o'clock and the other to 5 o'clock
2. Try to wiggle it.
It only moves when your hands are at the positions mentioned.
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Rep Power: 0 By the way, the alignment guy handed me a JIC wrench to adjust my Hayames. I told him how crappy Hayame's wrench are and that it slips when you turn it, so he gave me a JIC one. The JIC wrench is pointed and it wont slip unlike Hayames almost rounded wrench.
I told him how crappy Hayame's wrench are and that it slips when you turn it, so he gave me a JIC one. The JIC wrench is pointed and it wont slip unlike Hayames almost rounded wrench. I dont understand why it moves in the front. Washer? What washer because I never herad of anyone saying anything about washer? Hayame is suppose to be a direct swap for your stock strut. The shop probaby install them wrong or put it in a wrong way or something. Make them check out the whole install again.
I just take a deeper look at slam pix. I dont see where you can place your washer at. If you have exactly the same thing you shouldn't need a washer. I think it is a bad installation issue. Tell your installer uninstall the front and check the top mounts (of the strut) to see if he put it in the right way(since the top mounts move) and to check if the top mounts shake (up and down). For my knowledge there is only one way to install the top mount but I can be wrong.
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That IS weird. Mine went straight in, no play up there whatsoever. But what you're saying does make sense - if one of the strut bolts is loose, you will be able to wiggle the whole assembly on only one axis.
Funny enough, I didn't have this problem. I would have noticed it when putting my wheels back on.
Funny enough, I didn't have this problem. I would have noticed it when putting my wheels back on.
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Rep Power: 0 dacivic, yeah I used the 17mm instead of the 19mm. I was looking at it while I move it, it wasnt coming from the bolt tho. The installer asked me to come back to dremel it or I can do it myself too.
But it could be it. I'm definitely going there tomorrow.
thanks all.
But it could be it. I'm definitely going there tomorrow.
thanks all.
