My brake job is going like a ****ing nighmare
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
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From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 425 
My brake job is going like a ****ing nighmare
If it can go wrong or not work, it is.
1. I can't get the damn rotor off. I've tried WD-40, an impact driver, even a torch, the fuggin screws won't budge.
2. The new pads are in, I can't get them over the caliper. Tried opening the bleeder and pressing on the inner pad, no luck, still won't clear.
For the love of god someone help me before I go nuts. I'm giving up for the night now that I've wasted 3 hours and all I did was get one caliper off and the old pads out.
1. I can't get the damn rotor off. I've tried WD-40, an impact driver, even a torch, the fuggin screws won't budge.
2. The new pads are in, I can't get them over the caliper. Tried opening the bleeder and pressing on the inner pad, no luck, still won't clear.
For the love of god someone help me before I go nuts. I'm giving up for the night now that I've wasted 3 hours and all I did was get one caliper off and the old pads out.
But it's a Dry Heat
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,025
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From: 909
Rep Power: 0 As far as the caliper...I am assuming that you opened up the master cylinder and used a C clamp to open the pressure cylinders on the caliper? As far as the Rotors...I have used a steering wheel puller in the past to get those off my BMWs..not sure if it will work for a Honda.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 3
From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 425 I didn't open the MC, I opened the bleed valve. I wouldn't think it makes a difference which you pick, as long as the system pressure is relieved.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 3
From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 425 I'll try a C clamp tomorrow once I get one big enough. I'm watching for the cylinder behind the pad to slip back into the caliper back right? The floating frame seems to move around just fine, but its not doing me much good at the moment.
Autocross Junky
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Las Vegas, Nevada, US
Rep Power: 382 ON the stock rotors, there are 2 extra holes with threads. if you can find a pair of bolts with the right thread, you can use these holes to force the rotor off of the hub,
Just like how I got the drums off....
Just dont use the holes that the little screws are in. Its the other two
Just like how I got the drums off....
Just dont use the holes that the little screws are in. Its the other two
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 3
From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 425 Well, when all else fails and you've got replacement parts destroy it.
It's 1130 here, I had to get something accomplished before I went to bed. I concentrically drilled the 2 screws out. 2 minutes later, I had the rotor off 2 minutes after that, I had the 2 screw stubs in the hub cleared out and 2 minutes after that I had a shiny brembo rotor sitting on the hub. Now all I need is a C-clamp bigger than the one I have and I can get the pads on....
Repeat for the other side and I'm done. Hell with the screwdriver... its faster just to drill those screws out.
It's 1130 here, I had to get something accomplished before I went to bed. I concentrically drilled the 2 screws out. 2 minutes later, I had the rotor off 2 minutes after that, I had the 2 screw stubs in the hub cleared out and 2 minutes after that I had a shiny brembo rotor sitting on the hub. Now all I need is a C-clamp bigger than the one I have and I can get the pads on....
Repeat for the other side and I'm done. Hell with the screwdriver... its faster just to drill those screws out.
Registered!!
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: North York, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 0 I was going to post that suggestion, but you beat me to it! When I did my brake job / caliper painting session, I couldn't get those damn phillips-head screws off. So I drilled them out.
Keep in mind that you can put the rotor on WITHOUT new screws holding it on. The only reason those screws are there is to retain the rotors as the car travels down the assembly line. Once your wheel is installed, it's the torque from the lugnuts that truly keep it tight.
True - when it doubt, destroy it. Espeically if the replacement part is cheap or in this case not *really* required. I had a b!tch of a time installing my rear hayames. I basically ended up sawing off the bolt that holds the bottom of the strut and replacing it with a new one (bought at Honda for a few bucks)...
Keep in mind that you can put the rotor on WITHOUT new screws holding it on. The only reason those screws are there is to retain the rotors as the car travels down the assembly line. Once your wheel is installed, it's the torque from the lugnuts that truly keep it tight.
True - when it doubt, destroy it. Espeically if the replacement part is cheap or in this case not *really* required. I had a b!tch of a time installing my rear hayames. I basically ended up sawing off the bolt that holds the bottom of the strut and replacing it with a new one (bought at Honda for a few bucks)...
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From: LA, California, US
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I too drilled out one of the screws holding my rotor on. The rest I actually got off...I ended up using my leg to put enough pressure on the screwdriver and an open end wrench to turn it.
Sometimes, I can see right through myself ...
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From: 757
Rep Power: 482 As for the pistion in the caliper, all you need is one of them sliding wrench thingies. I can't remember what they are called exactly, but they look like this:
It's the ones on the far left. All you're trying to do is compress the piston back into the caliper. That's all I used when I did my brakes.
It's the ones on the far left. All you're trying to do is compress the piston back into the caliper. That's all I used when I did my brakes.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 3
From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 425 Ahh... success. Now I just have to suffer through braking them in. it'll be tough cuz I really want to beat them up.
I'll write a DIY for impatient people later.
Took 4 hours to do one side, then 40 minutes to do the second one.
I'll write a DIY for impatient people later.
Took 4 hours to do one side, then 40 minutes to do the second one.
ThE FaMiLy SeDaN
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: UCF, Florida, US
Rep Power: 0 our cars are a bitch... when all else fails get a mimi sledge and have fun.. i figure if ur putting new rotors on..who says u cant ruin the old ones while taking them off..
riley
riley
for the rotor screw, I use one of those screw driver/socket things, so that you can use a screw driver bit with your 3/8" ratchet. seems to do the trick, giving plenty of leverage.
example from sears site:
example from sears site:
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,318
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From: Boise, Idaho
Rep Power: 329 some pointers that may help others in the future....
1. always use an impact driver to remove the screws that hold the rotor on (no need to reuse the screws when done) if not you too will be drilling them out.
2. penetrating oil on the rotor around the hub and studs and use of a hammer lightly tapping the hub area can release the rotor from the hub.
3. believe it or not the use of one of those LARGE cheap generic gear pullers works if you grab the outer edges of the rotor and apply modderate pressure then tap the back side of the rotor with a dead blow hammer.
4. be sure to scrap ALL rust from the hub and inside of the rotor if reusing it, if you dont this can induce runout in the rotor and later cause pedal pulsations
5. when not replacing the caliper and pushing the piston back in to make room for new pads its best to losen the bleeder screw and push excess fluid out through it not the master cylinder. sometimes particles inside the system can be pushed back up into the master cylinder/ABS valving and cause all kinds of problems.
6. NEVER use channle lock pliers to push the piston in. Leave the old inner pad in against the caliper and use a C-clamp to make sure its even pressure pushing the piston in. If it takes LOTS of force to push the piston in.... REPLACE the caliper and save your self head aches later of a caliper failure.
1. always use an impact driver to remove the screws that hold the rotor on (no need to reuse the screws when done) if not you too will be drilling them out.
2. penetrating oil on the rotor around the hub and studs and use of a hammer lightly tapping the hub area can release the rotor from the hub.
3. believe it or not the use of one of those LARGE cheap generic gear pullers works if you grab the outer edges of the rotor and apply modderate pressure then tap the back side of the rotor with a dead blow hammer.
4. be sure to scrap ALL rust from the hub and inside of the rotor if reusing it, if you dont this can induce runout in the rotor and later cause pedal pulsations
5. when not replacing the caliper and pushing the piston back in to make room for new pads its best to losen the bleeder screw and push excess fluid out through it not the master cylinder. sometimes particles inside the system can be pushed back up into the master cylinder/ABS valving and cause all kinds of problems.
6. NEVER use channle lock pliers to push the piston in. Leave the old inner pad in against the caliper and use a C-clamp to make sure its even pressure pushing the piston in. If it takes LOTS of force to push the piston in.... REPLACE the caliper and save your self head aches later of a caliper failure.
Registered!!
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From: Tinley Park, Illinois, US
Rep Power: 320 I had the same prob with the phillips head screw. I just didn't have time to mess with it so I left the old rotors on w/o getting them turned smooth. (I know, bad for pad life). I just figure the next time I change pads, I'll drill the screws out and slap some new rotors on.
Is there anything special about the phillips head screws or can we just use regular hardware store screws to replace them?
Is there anything special about the phillips head screws or can we just use regular hardware store screws to replace them?
Registered!!
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From: Miami (Pembroke Pines), Florida
Rep Power: 454 Originally posted by tfnaaf
they arent needed when reinstalling the rotors. they are put there during assembly of the car so they dont fall off
they arent needed when reinstalling the rotors. they are put there during assembly of the car so they dont fall off
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,318
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From: Boise, Idaho
Rep Power: 329 Originally posted by InanimateCarbonRod
Is there anything special about the phillips head screws or can we just use regular hardware store screws to replace them?
Originally posted by streetglower “ Originally posted by tfnaaf
they arent needed when reinstalling the rotors. they are put there during assembly of the car so they dont fall off ”
didnt you read the previous posts, thats was already established!
Is there anything special about the phillips head screws or can we just use regular hardware store screws to replace them?
Originally posted by streetglower “ Originally posted by tfnaaf
they arent needed when reinstalling the rotors. they are put there during assembly of the car so they dont fall off ”
didnt you read the previous posts, thats was already established!
Sometimes, I can see right through myself ...
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From: 757
Rep Power: 482 Originally posted by tfnaaf
some pointers that may help others in the future....
6. NEVER use channle lock pliers to push the piston in. Leave the old inner pad in against the caliper and use a C-clamp to make sure its even pressure pushing the piston in. If it takes LOTS of force to push the piston in.... REPLACE the caliper and save your self head aches later of a caliper failure.
some pointers that may help others in the future....
6. NEVER use channle lock pliers to push the piston in. Leave the old inner pad in against the caliper and use a C-clamp to make sure its even pressure pushing the piston in. If it takes LOTS of force to push the piston in.... REPLACE the caliper and save your self head aches later of a caliper failure.
When I changed my rotors and pads last summer, that's what my brother and I used. And I would kind of imagine that my brother would know what he's talking about, considering that he's a certified Honda mechanic and all ...
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,318
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From: Boise, Idaho
Rep Power: 329 Originally posted by taz757
I wouldn't be so sure that channel locks don't work. You need some of the more heavy duty pliers to do the job though. If you're still paranoid, you can use either the old pad or a thin piece of wood and do the same thing as with the C-clamp. Channel locks (or maybe those Robogrip pliers or something similar) are a lot easier to manuver in the wheelwell than a C-clamp will be.
When I changed my rotors and pads last summer, that's what my brother and I used. And I would kind of imagine that my brother would know what he's talking about, considering that he's a certified Honda mechanic and all ...
I wouldn't be so sure that channel locks don't work. You need some of the more heavy duty pliers to do the job though. If you're still paranoid, you can use either the old pad or a thin piece of wood and do the same thing as with the C-clamp. Channel locks (or maybe those Robogrip pliers or something similar) are a lot easier to manuver in the wheelwell than a C-clamp will be.
When I changed my rotors and pads last summer, that's what my brother and I used. And I would kind of imagine that my brother would know what he's talking about, considering that he's a certified Honda mechanic and all ...
I need TP for my bunghole
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From: OXNARD, CA. SoCal. "805", North of L.A.
Rep Power: 361 In the past I used a HEAVY DUTY IMPACT SCREWDRIVER SET to get those fawkers off without stripping them and drilling them out. You can get them damn near anywhere.
I got mine here:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46978
9 pcs. HEAVY DUTY IMPACT SCREWDRIVER SET
$7.99
Loosen the toughest screws with one quick hammer blow
Set includes:
8mm x 2-15/16'' slotted
8mm x 1-7/16'' slotted
7mm x 1-7/16'' slotted
#3 x 2-15/16'' slotted
#3 x 1-7/16'' Phillips
#2 x 1-7/16'' Phillips
1/2'' drive to 5/16'' hex adapter
1/2'' drive impact driver
Storage case
This is great site for cheaply priced tool
they also have a shyt load of c clamps too.
Just find a location near you.
I got mine here:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46978
9 pcs. HEAVY DUTY IMPACT SCREWDRIVER SET
$7.99
Loosen the toughest screws with one quick hammer blow
Set includes:
8mm x 2-15/16'' slotted
8mm x 1-7/16'' slotted
7mm x 1-7/16'' slotted
#3 x 2-15/16'' slotted
#3 x 1-7/16'' Phillips
#2 x 1-7/16'' Phillips
1/2'' drive to 5/16'' hex adapter
1/2'' drive impact driver
Storage case
This is great site for cheaply priced tool
they also have a shyt load of c clamps too.
Just find a location near you.
Last edited by PunkingCivic; May 10, 2004 at 11:48 AM.
Autocross Junky
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,211
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From: Las Vegas, Nevada, US
Rep Power: 382 ^^Cheeper trick...... On some screwdrivers, there will be a Hexed part of the shaft right before the handle.... find a box wrench that fits it and use the wrench to give you extra Leverage on the screw. (Lean in hard on the screwdriver to keep the thing seated in the Screw and then twist the screwdriver with the wrench)
Learnd that trick from working at my dads Body shop for umpteen years...
Learnd that trick from working at my dads Body shop for umpteen years...
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,318
Likes: 0
From: Boise, Idaho
Rep Power: 329 is an impact driver !!
Originally Posted by PunkingCivic
In the past I used a HEAVY DUTY IMPACT SCREWDRIVER SET to get those fawkers off without stripping them and drilling them out. You can get them damn near anywhere.
I got mine here:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46978
9 pcs. HEAVY DUTY IMPACT SCREWDRIVER SET
$7.99
Loosen the toughest screws with one quick hammer blow
Set includes:
8mm x 2-15/16'' slotted
8mm x 1-7/16'' slotted
7mm x 1-7/16'' slotted
#3 x 2-15/16'' slotted
#3 x 1-7/16'' Phillips
#2 x 1-7/16'' Phillips
1/2'' drive to 5/16'' hex adapter
1/2'' drive impact driver
Storage case
This is great site for cheaply priced tool
they also have a shyt load of c clamps too.
Just find a location near you.
I got mine here:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46978
9 pcs. HEAVY DUTY IMPACT SCREWDRIVER SET
$7.99
Loosen the toughest screws with one quick hammer blow
Set includes:
8mm x 2-15/16'' slotted
8mm x 1-7/16'' slotted
7mm x 1-7/16'' slotted
#3 x 2-15/16'' slotted
#3 x 1-7/16'' Phillips
#2 x 1-7/16'' Phillips
1/2'' drive to 5/16'' hex adapter
1/2'' drive impact driver
Storage case
This is great site for cheaply priced tool
they also have a shyt load of c clamps too.
Just find a location near you.
Registered!!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
Rep Power: 0 An impact driver has a helix inside the housing. As you pound the back with a hammer, it turns the head either clockwise or counter clockwise depending on your setting. It has great turning force on the screw, without messing it up. As you can see in the photo it works for sockets too.
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