Clear Bass???
I dont really know how to explain this, but I'll try to, lol. How do you get a "clear" bass sound from the outside of your car? I have 1 12" sony xplod 1000w aluminum cone sub, which sounds great from the inside, but from the outside, its really shitty, lol. When im bumping my music, my trunk is rattling so much it almost seems like somethings gonna break, lol. Anyway, how do some people get a "clear" bass sound from the outside of their car? I've seen cars drive by and hear good clear bass, and I dont hear any rattling. I was thinking dynomat or something like that, but isnt that supposed to keep sound "inside" your car? And im ruling out them having a lot of subs cuz I saw an 88 accord that was reaaalllyyyy beat up having really nice clear bass coming from it, which I herd from like 50ft away, with no rattling. So, what could it be?
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Dynamat..If you are hearing rattles is cuz of sound vibrations.
You can also go to the DIY section and find info on adjusting your trunk latch AND you can read the sound deadening Sticky on the forum front. Hope I helped pimpin'
You can also go to the DIY section and find info on adjusting your trunk latch AND you can read the sound deadening Sticky on the forum front. Hope I helped pimpin'
yea, i know its rattling cuz of the vibrations from the bass. But, I was wondering how do I stop that and get "clear" bass from the outside? I thought fatmat, dynomat would just stop the vibrations, and dead the sound from the outside. Yet it seems like I see people every now and then who have very nice sounding bass from the outside, and I hear no rattling? thanks in the help in pimpn
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. It's very hard to eliminiate ALL rattling in a car with a trunk...fatmat or dynamat will help a lot, it stops vibrations in the metal, and the metal is whats rattling. Are you hearing that clear bass from hatchbacks or SUV's? When the subs arent sealed in a trunk, there is sometimes less vibration on the outside of the car...luxury cars also have more factory sound absorbtion material, so it will sound better in those too....
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Haha!! I just got a new amp and im havin the same problem lol. When I hear other cars wit systems they dont rattle, they have clear bass like u said. Damn cheap vics !!!
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dynamat is a high priced alternative to deadening a car. it works just fine, but you can spend far less money for an alternative deadening mat, and get the same results. some examples of this are fatmat, raamat, etc. basically the rattles are from two seperate pieces of metal vibrating against each other. basically, as spl increases, the surrounding panels of the car try to expand. being as every panel has different energy handling properties, the spl is reduced because those panels inhibit the movement of air required to produce additional spl. the body panels are counteracting the subwoofers performance. using a mat dampener will reduce their resistance to vibration, allowing more air to be moved, more efficiently. which will in turn create more spl. mat dampeners are one method for reducing your rattles. and while it is almost impossible to alleviate all rattles, using a mat dampener will reduce them. as more mat is added, more material is dampened. a word of advice from someone that learned the hardway: don't spend the extra money for the dynamat name. it works the same as the other mats, yet is overpriced. you pay for their name. get one of the alternative mats, and save yourself money, and get the same performance. if i had it to do over again, i would have done the same. but, like many people, i was decieved by their advertisement, and was made to believe it works better, and is more efficient than the others. the truth: its no better than any of the others, just a little different on the eyes, aesthetically.
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as to the bass sound, the sound doesnt come out of the trunk from those cars, it comes out teh windows.
yeah, teh dynamat/fatmat/etc. will keep the bass in the trunk, but its not matting your windows so itll still come out
also, no offense my friend, but your sub isnt exactly a very loud sub
yeah, teh dynamat/fatmat/etc. will keep the bass in the trunk, but its not matting your windows so itll still come out
also, no offense my friend, but your sub isnt exactly a very loud sub
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Originally posted by PopcornPlaya
dynamat is a high priced alternative to deadening a car. it works just fine, but you can spend far less money for an alternative deadening mat, and get the same results. some examples of this are fatmat, raamat, etc. basically the rattles are from two seperate pieces of metal vibrating against each other. basically, as spl increases, the surrounding panels of the car try to expand. being as every panel has different energy handling properties, the spl is reduced because those panels inhibit the movement of air required to produce additional spl. the body panels are counteracting the subwoofers performance. using a mat dampener will reduce their resistance to vibration, allowing more air to be moved, more efficiently. which will in turn create more spl. mat dampeners are one method for reducing your rattles. and while it is almost impossible to alleviate all rattles, using a mat dampener will reduce them. as more mat is added, more material is dampened. a word of advice from someone that learned the hardway: don't spend the extra money for the dynamat name. it works the same as the other mats, yet is overpriced. you pay for their name. get one of the alternative mats, and save yourself money, and get the same performance. if i had it to do over again, i would have done the same. but, like many people, i was decieved by their advertisement, and was made to believe it works better, and is more efficient than the others. the truth: its no better than any of the others, just a little different on the eyes, aesthetically.
dynamat is a high priced alternative to deadening a car. it works just fine, but you can spend far less money for an alternative deadening mat, and get the same results. some examples of this are fatmat, raamat, etc. basically the rattles are from two seperate pieces of metal vibrating against each other. basically, as spl increases, the surrounding panels of the car try to expand. being as every panel has different energy handling properties, the spl is reduced because those panels inhibit the movement of air required to produce additional spl. the body panels are counteracting the subwoofers performance. using a mat dampener will reduce their resistance to vibration, allowing more air to be moved, more efficiently. which will in turn create more spl. mat dampeners are one method for reducing your rattles. and while it is almost impossible to alleviate all rattles, using a mat dampener will reduce them. as more mat is added, more material is dampened. a word of advice from someone that learned the hardway: don't spend the extra money for the dynamat name. it works the same as the other mats, yet is overpriced. you pay for their name. get one of the alternative mats, and save yourself money, and get the same performance. if i had it to do over again, i would have done the same. but, like many people, i was decieved by their advertisement, and was made to believe it works better, and is more efficient than the others. the truth: its no better than any of the others, just a little different on the eyes, aesthetically.
I have the same sub but it can get loud from outside the car while the inside is great sounding (i have mine in a bandpass box).But whats the point of having people outside your car hearing bass.For me that means you just want to show off which is kind of lame if thats the case,but if you just want to get rid of rattle so your ride doesnt sound ghetto then i can understand that.But my car rattled like crazy,so all i did was move my trunk latch to its lowest position and apply 1 latey of dynamat extreme to my trunk lid and get the dynamat liscence plate mount and voila i have no rattles on the outside now and my SPL is a little bit more.but now i'm gonna try deadening my rear deck and rest of my trunk and my door panels.
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I saw an 88 accord that was reaaalllyyyy beat up having really nice clear bass coming from it, which I herd from like 50ft away, with no rattling. So, what could it be?
which I herd from like 50ft away
well im not trying to show off, but I just hate that shitty rattling sound from the outside. I mean, its either that sound or that "clear" bass sound im talking about, so obviously i rather have that clear bass sound. I have my sub in a bandbass box too, and it really rattles the trunk a lot. I never knew how much it rattled till i was walking to my car and left the radio on. about that 88 accord, I was inside a video store and could hear it good from the inside already. So, when i was done and walking to my car, I saw the car parked outside, and that was a good 50ft away, plus I was indoors, lol. I definetly dont want my car to be that loud, but im just saying it sounded nice, instead of that rattling sound
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I would suggest starting with sound damping of some form. From what i've exp. is most the rattles on our civics come from the deck lid and the trunk lid. And dont forget to put some on the back of the lic. plate!
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dude his car was right there. ask him what he did. j/k, sub location and type of box will probably make the biggest differences as to how loud it gets outside the car. if you do a mediocre job on the rattles and make it louder, it'll probably sound "clearer". but it might not be as loud inside the car...
deadening will make the car louder inside and out.
my buddies gf once knocked on my window while doing a driveway session, and immediately burst out laughing. it turns out that its really quiet outside, but sure enough, when i open the windows, sound fills the air around my car.
so the secret is to make yoru car dead solid to increase its volume inside the car, then open the windows to let it out, if thats what you wish. you have the added benefit of [i]not[/] letting it out when you dont want to (3 am driving home through residential areas sounds like a good time to have a quiet car...)
my buddies gf once knocked on my window while doing a driveway session, and immediately burst out laughing. it turns out that its really quiet outside, but sure enough, when i open the windows, sound fills the air around my car.
so the secret is to make yoru car dead solid to increase its volume inside the car, then open the windows to let it out, if thats what you wish. you have the added benefit of [i]not[/] letting it out when you dont want to (3 am driving home through residential areas sounds like a good time to have a quiet car...)
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Originally posted by dru106
Haha!! WOW!!! What class did u take? lol
Haha!! WOW!!! What class did u take? lol
seriously though, i have never taken a class, ever, not even english... so i may often speak in conjoined sentences, and broken english. but this a message board not a grammatical education board correct?
yea, windows closed = quiet
windows open = lots of noise
i had my sub on and it was like bump bump bump on my trunk, then when i opened the windows, i hear it all.
open ur back seats and it gets real loud
windows open = lots of noise
i had my sub on and it was like bump bump bump on my trunk, then when i opened the windows, i hear it all.
open ur back seats and it gets real loud
dynamat helps a ton. other than that make sure everything is secure in the trunk, and the liscense plate gave me some rattling problems for a while. it surprising how loud that thing can be
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im telling you, don't pay the price tag for the dynamat name. i'm assuming you'r gonna reinstall the carpet, or that the trunk floor/inside of trunk will be carpeted or vinyled, or whatever. so the apperance wont matter. dynamat is just the name that you're paying for. it works no better than the cheaper alternatives.
www.raamat.com
www.fatmat.com
those are the same thing as dynamat at a fraction of the cost. so unless you want it to be pretty and you're gonna be able to see it, i'd get one of the cheaper alternatives.
www.raamat.com
www.fatmat.com
those are the same thing as dynamat at a fraction of the cost. so unless you want it to be pretty and you're gonna be able to see it, i'd get one of the cheaper alternatives.
^^^ i once bought other sound deadening material but the adhesive on the back was not good, so whenever it got alittle hot in my trunk it would fall off. plus dynamat provided all around better sound for me. thats my experience. IMO, dynamat is more than a name, it works
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Nod dynomat does work, ive used it many of times. Ive also used ice guard and for most applications ive found it to give similar results
hell yeah I got a dynamat extreme bulk pack for $115 and it works great! put 1 layer on my trunk lid and my liscence plate and all my outside rattling is gone and it doesnt fall off in extreme hot or extreme cold weather and doesnt smell...and is real easy to instal....dynomat for me baby! although i will be using some second skin products for some other stuff.
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i have dynomat in some parts, i bought it first. then i decided to try some of the other, less expensive products. all yielded the same results, yet the non dynomat products saved me money. mine has yet to peel, or come loose (almost a year now). we have wierd weather here in ga, it gets fairly cold in the winter, and rediculously hot in summer (more humidity than temp however). i applied mine in a somewhat climate controlled environment (garage) with two blower heaters, and direct heat on trunk pan. i also used a heat gun when applying, cause it was 30 degrees or so when i was doing it. i have not had a problem with raamat, or fatmat.
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ok, so i was looking at the FatMat site and noticed that they have an eXtreme line, and a Rattle Trap line. i noticed that the Trunk eXtreme kit includes 5 sheets of 18"x24" material @ 45mil thickness(install weight 7 lbs.) for $38.99. The Rattle Trap Trunk kit comes with 5 sheets of 24"x24" material @ 80mil thickness(install weight 20 lbs.) for $59.99.
is the smaller eXtreme kit pretty much all you need unless youre competing?
also, would the trunk kit be enough to cover my hatch? or should i get the bluk packs?
is the smaller eXtreme kit pretty much all you need unless youre competing?
also, would the trunk kit be enough to cover my hatch? or should i get the bluk packs?
its hard to say, everyone's car/install is a little bit different when it comes to rattling. naturally youd need less if you were running a single eclipse 10 versus four hcca 15's!
whats nice about deadener is that its jsut mass loading. the heavier you make the panel, and less uniform, the more difficult it is to make it resonate. So the thickness is irellevant, because you can just layer it up till it stops.
so if you decide to get the 45 mil kit, and it turns out its totally inadequate to stop resonance, you can always get more 45 mil, or some 80 mil, or even other deadener, and keep layering it on till it stops resonating.
whats nice about deadener is that its jsut mass loading. the heavier you make the panel, and less uniform, the more difficult it is to make it resonate. So the thickness is irellevant, because you can just layer it up till it stops.
so if you decide to get the 45 mil kit, and it turns out its totally inadequate to stop resonance, you can always get more 45 mil, or some 80 mil, or even other deadener, and keep layering it on till it stops resonating.
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I say go with dynamat extreme. It will never fall off and never smell like tar. Those features alone make it worth the money.
I have a single 10" infinity sub and that thing sounds so loud with all the dynamat everywhere. So it does help to sound deaden the car. I've noticed that you can't really hear much outside of the car, which means you won't get as much rattle from the trunk.
I have a single 10" infinity sub and that thing sounds so loud with all the dynamat everywhere. So it does help to sound deaden the car. I've noticed that you can't really hear much outside of the car, which means you won't get as much rattle from the trunk.
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the smell will last maybe a day, if that. mine had the tar smell for about 6 hours, and then you couldn't smell it. as far as not sticking, if you install it right, it will stick. don't get me wrong dynamat works, i never said it didn't. but for sheer value, and performance, the others work just as well. install it correctly, and it won't come off. it make take a few more minutes to run a few drop cords, and hook up the heaters so that the body panels are warm, but once you do that, and let it get warm for about 30 minutes or so, then apply the dampener, it will stick, and stay stuck. i also used a heat gun, and wooden wall paper roller when installing it. i'd heat gun the part right before rolling it on. wokrs like a charm. i know there are those tuners/modifiers that are on a budget, and i am looking out for them. im trying to save them money, and get more product for the same performance. dynamat works good, as does raamat, and fatmat. fatmat and raamat are however cheaper than dynamat. just as it is in other areas of ice, the install is key.


