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Autocrossing - Next step for parts?

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Old Oct 29, 2003
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Autocrossing - Next step for parts?

Alright, right now I'm running (only going to list suspension sutff here, but I have standard bolt-ons) Neuspeed sports, RSX rear sway, and neuspeed front strut bar. I want to get my handling a little tighter, I think I have a bit of understeer, which, if I'm thinking straight, would be corrected with a tighter front end, but I also think that the neuspeed springs aren't the best. I don't have a G to spend on Tiens, but either adding koni shocks, or switching to ground controls is a viable option. What do the pros say?
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Old Oct 29, 2003
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Re: Autocrossing - Next step for parts?

Originally posted by Strychnine
Alright, right now I'm running (only going to list suspension sutff here, but I have standard bolt-ons) Neuspeed sports, RSX rear sway, and neuspeed front strut bar. I want to get my handling a little tighter, I think I have a bit of understeer, which, if I'm thinking straight, would be corrected with a tighter front end, but I also think that the neuspeed springs aren't the best. I don't have a G to spend on Tiens, but either adding koni shocks, or switching to ground controls is a viable option. What do the pros say?

Supprisingly understeer is corrected by stiffining the rear roll rate, by either increacing the spring rates there, or by getting a larger anti-roll bar on the back.

are you planning on going full Autocross, with little regard to street comfort,
or is this a duel purpous car that you need to pick up dates with?

If its all autocross then spring rates in in 4-500lb/in on the nose with a +1-200lb/in increace on the rear would probably be a good choice.... after you got the springs in then you can adjust any remaining understeer by using different Anti-roll bars (Adjustible ones work well here). if its you race car/ date machine. then those spring rates would probably be a bit harsh. I'd probably drop them about 100lb/in.

Shocks and springs......... Ground controls are a good product, and they are more then happy to put custom spring rates on them. Koni Yellows in Stock trim are only good to about 450lb/in, if you go with higher spring rates you'll need to talk to koni to get them Revalved for the Stronger spring.

Just remember in racing, the primary job of the spring is to keep the tires contact patch Loaded. so you need to choose a spring rate that is stiff enough to minimize body roll (Camber change is bad) but soft enough to keep the tire on the ground when you hit bumps. after you find that, then Roll couple (handling Balance) can be adjusted by using Anti-roll bars.

We were kindof covering this Here
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Old Oct 29, 2003
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It's going to be my daily driver too, not a full autocross, but I don't mind sacraficing a bit of comfort for performance, I just don't want to look like a bobblehead when I'm driving around. Thanks for the reply
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Old Oct 29, 2003
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Konis... full stiff in the rear and somewhat soft in the front. That will help from what I've been told by fellow older gen Civic racers.
Something on the order of 450-500 lb in the back will not make the car bounce down the road if you have shocks that can take it, which I don't think stock konis can. Another option is to dial the backs down to 400 or so, match the fronts to that (around 225-250). I have a feeling that by the time you get a custom set of springs for GCs made, you'll be pretty close to the price of Teins, and probably equal the performance. So it should end up as a toss up.
The other part is just how you drive. If you gradually ease into corners, it gives the tires time to set and knocks some of the push out of the nose.
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Old Oct 29, 2003
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yep tighten the rear up more thats what i dont get about honda making the civics have this huge front bar and a tiny rear bar unlike before where the rear was fairly larger than the front
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Old Oct 29, 2003
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The OEM engineers worked very hard to produce ultimate understeer on any production car. This is done explicitly and on purpose, because they are trying to keep Grandma alive when she gets in trouble on the freeway.

thats why the front is larger by such a margin. Vs. say the progress bars that are 27mm Front and 22mm rear. My 2001 Ex has a 25mm front bar and a 15mm rear bar thats a difference of 10mm Vs the progress difference of 5mm. notice the trend?
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